Funkyflynz

Looking really good mate, nice work!

Cool, good to know.  Was planning to come up early spring for that.  

So want to have a ride in this some day mate, epic build!

22 hours ago, Olaf said:

I expected nothing less #8 )    Do you have a press brake and guillotine in that workshop too?  Tidy beads, looks trick. 

Unfortunately no room for anything like that mate, I'm fully tapped out regards room in the shed :-( Angle grinder and file suffice. 

Replaced the transmission mounts while i was at it with some Rogue Engineering items, they are suppose to be firmer than stock M3 so hopefully they help firm things up.  I didn't go with race style solid or extra firm ones as i don't want to increase the noise or vibration inside the cabin.  2min video showing a simple press test... 

2 minutes ago, Olaf said:

nice fab work, Lee!  great work.

 

Cheers Richard, the new base was fully welded, primed and painted prior to the final install just incase you thought i dropped it in looking like that ;-)

In case you are thinking about installing one of these race shifters heres an 8min clip showing some of the issues i had... 

I also discovered the Samsonas shifter also requires a new shift linkage, this is due to the factory shifter having a kink in it which matched the gearbox connector, about 5 degrees.  Thankfully i got the parts to make a new shifter linkage.  When i asked about instructions i got "There is no instruction sheet for the shifter, from what my technicians have explained it is straight forward similar process to any short shifter on the market."  Straight forward in a gutted race car maybe lol.  So with the new base welded up, its was time for a test fit, over all pretty happy with how it sits now, and no ugly cut console.  It looks pretty legit, a coby alcantara boot helps up the class a notch too ;-)

Started on the install on the Samsonas shifter, this is a lot of work, have to remove the interior console etc, exhaust, gearbox cross member, driveshaft and lower the gear box, then its remove the factory shifter which is a bit of a mission and test fit the shifter to see what i need to modify.  It turns out quite a bit!  The base that comes with the shifter has it sitting so high you need to cut the plastics and you end up with part of the mechanism hanging out, most guys run it like this but it looks messy and unfinished to me as you can see in the image below (not my vehicle),  I've decided to build my own base 12mm lower so it clears to top of the plastics and hides all but the actual shifter handle.  

33 minutes ago, _BRS_ said:

Looking good! Are you going to the Show and Shine at the Valley this Saturday evening as part of the Taranaki Car Clubs Night street sprint?

Didn't know it was on, what time is it?  we are over that side of town so might be able to pop in for a look.

12 hours ago, HELLBM said:

Re. a quicker rack we have a good supply of purple tag sport racks (3 turns lock to lock) and Z3 racks 2.7 turns.

Hi,

The dilemma as i understand it is...with a faster rack it affects the DSC.  The Z3 is the one i was looking at dropping in.  Jury is still out as i hear you might be able to change the coding for the DSC logic.

wow wow wow!

Had a couple of hours to kill between jobs, managed to make it to Whanga and back.  Its been a few years since i did this road, didn't recall it being so bumpy.  Great test of the car and highlighted how much i don't like the M3 steering, its improved a lot with the new coupler but its simply too slack, need a quicker ratio rack, more on that later.

Moving the rack is one option, you might find it easier with some adjustable tired ends such as these...

http://131abarth.com/shop/uniball/en/home/768-raidetangonpaan-bump-steer-kitti.html

https://www.akgmotorsport.com/product/bump-steer-correction-kit-e36/

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Steering-Components/Ground-Control-Adjustable-Bump-Tie-Rods-E36.html

The short shifter i decided on is the Samsonas with reverse lockout, i find that I sometimes hit the reverse hole when shifting quickly from 3rd to 2nd, this will stop that and it also self centres so the shift from 2nd to 3rd requires no side movement.  The install will be a bit of a mission as i have to drop the exhaust and drive shaft, and may need to also drop the gearbox a little, the shifter isn't a bolt in and does require some modification to fit.  Another option is the CAE shifter which is far more popular and is more of a bolt in, however i like the look of the Samsonas.

Been collection bits over the last few weeks, getting ready to put in a short shifter and do the armrest delete.  Pretty much ready to go so will hopefully have time to attack this in a week or so.

28 minutes ago, nmaisey said:

Update: SOLD

Congrats bro, what did you get for it in the end?

Pictures, and description.  You might find more people are interested with the original seats in there aye.  Stock is often better for resale

So whats the story, did you end up selling those race seats?  i see they are still listed on the auction?

20 minutes ago, CSET said:

Welp seemed I was wrong! There was apparently a flat spot from 2 - 3,500rpm, and it had thrown a code having the cats removed (despite no CEL yet). NZPT have addressed both of these things and had a play with some other bits and bobs that I won't even try and understand. I've yet to drive the car past moving it back & forth, but according them it's a fair bit better at low rpm. They're quietly confident they've gained a little power & torque from it too, but it won't be a huge amount. Looking forward to when I can get a chance to drive it! 

I would assume if its been tuned they should be able to show you a printout of the HP and Torque curves before and after, surely they don't tune it based on their "bum dyne" do they?

17 hours ago, Olaf said:

totally quote worthy.  I just check the dipstick whenever I fill up, and never look behind me for fear of clouds.  I find the following somewhat instructional:

 

Hahaha, I've just brought this after see this clip. Looking forward to watching it tonight with the wife.   Thanks Richard 

Update on the Motul transmission oil - when its cold its quite notchy, much more so than what ever was in there before.  However once warmed up its fantastic.

I decided to also change the diff oil and replace the bolts that can snap or sheer off, these are BMW replacement bolts but weren't an official recall.  These connect the diff to the subframe.

For the diff oil i went with a Motul 75w140 which meets factory specs, the only difference compared to the BMW oil is it doesn't have an friction modifier in it, BMW started add friction modifier after some owners complained about noisey grinding diffs when driving low speed tight circles.   The diff now seems tighter, and a little more snappy, i.e. oversteer is induced more rapidly where as before it felt more progressive.  Again the oil pump was the champion of the day.

35 minutes ago, Olaf said:

Lee, you used to be sensible and laid-back, concentrating on AWD turbo'd Subarus, and laying down sweet beads of weld on that MOPAR.  What happened?  Now you're collecting roundel badges and are about to be offered the BMW franchise for New Plymouth!   It's a wild transformation man.   You wear it well. 

Hahaha, Thanks, I once was blind but now i see.  

Ive had 2 E61's, both were pre LCI.  I loved them both, one was a 550 motorsport.  The 550 was way less trouble than the 525 motorsport.  As you have discovered the 550 motorsport is a special car, 270kw of V8 grunt and great comfort, yes that sound system is kicking!  Both were my daily driver doing 100km to work, gas usage wasn't too bad.  The only thing i didn't like was the lack of after market parts, i.e performance hop ups.  Also they run an open diff which just seems weird and was a huge disappointment.  The guy who sold me the 550 actually brought it back off me he loved it so much.  I would say get the 550, get a warranty and drive it for 6-12 months,  you have then at least experienced a $170k new vehicle.  http://www.drivesouth.co.nz/news/roadtests/bmw/457/driving-in-lap-of-luxury

1 hour ago, HaNs said:

Pre are used for fuel trim so not a good idea to remove/disable 

 

Plenty of HP left out of the stock tune.

Hey Hans, as i read it manufacturers will tune an engine to run much richer than required for optimal performance, this is so its safe and meets emissions, for cats to work they require a fairly rich mixture.  Thus removing cats and leaning out the mixture will net gains for most modern engines correct?  Be interested to hear your experience on this.

Not wanting to hijack CSET's thread, but would you recommend an off the shelf after market tune?  or is a custom tune the only way to go?