Syy0628

thanks for the reply, any idea where I can get a used one locally?

Hi, I am recently having problems with my GM4 module in my e36 328i convertible, the car was leaking water and the moisture have eaten away some of the PCB on the GM4. I took the gm4 out I got almost everything working by cleaning the PCB and drying it with a heat gun on low setting, soft top works, windows and central locking work, comfort features work. But then because the soft top was not 100% fixed, it leaked under heavy rain again, and then nothing works. I can't not find a gm4 with the same part number anywhere, So I brought a GM4 from eBay, which the seller claimed is pulled from an e36 328i convertible us spec. it has a different part number. And everything bar the soft top and the comfort features works. (the soft top doesn't resync when I hold the button down with the new module, it almost feels like it is not for a convertible) the information on the net is very inconsistent about what part number is for what model of e36. The first photo is the broken unit from my car, and the second photo with green sticker is the part number of the unit I brought from eBay. I have looked on realOEM, but even the broken unit from my car is not listed on there. So a few questions 1. what is mapping between different gm4 and e36 models, are they interchangeable? 2. Is there anyone know some guy in NZ that do repairs on those gm4 modules? 3. Anyone have an e36 convertible that willing to let me tear the gm4 off for a test? Thanks, Richard

May I recommand Subarus and Altezzas? Some of their models are prety realiable and cheap. I have a stock my99 WRX with now 280000kms on the clock any missed any beat that I brought three years ago for $4000, and my dad had a 2.0 na forester, brought new. sold with 380000kms. never had any issues with it. And From what I heard from some of my friends, the 3.0 liter flat six is also a really soild engine. Legacys with 3.0 flatsix with 6mt sometimes sells for about $4000-$5000. An alterntive to e36 318is (better in many ways) is the Altezza rs200 with 3sge. Just look at the recipe: double wishbones all around, front engine rear wheel drive, LSD. high reving engine, close ratio 6speed manuel, good weight distribution. I sold one in fairly good condition a year ago for $2800

I have an E36 that is like that, I measured the spring when they are off, it is the same length, and the strut mount and stuff is all the same height, I think it is just the spring is tired. It happens quite often in NZ because of, parking and driving on the highly cambered road, and always drive the car with a unbalanced load will slightly decrease the spring rate on one side (the fatigue of metal). on BMWs, because the first a few coils of the spring is very soft, this can be quite noticeable in ride height. I found it very frustrating, especially when cornering as the limit left and right turn will be very different.

Not a BMW, but this forum is I think the most helpful and active car forum in NZ, so I am going to post it here looking for some tips finally get around to fix my CLK320 that has been parked up since broken into a few months back. some lowlife that had no idea what he was doing decide he would like to take my merc for a spin and smashed my quarter glass. ripped out the door card try to open the door, without success(vacuum operated central locking), managed to squeeze into the car, and broken the steering column cover, and damaged the ignition. (what were you thinking, it's keyless entry and keyless start, even I can't get it to start with the backup key once the battery in the key is dead). caused lots of damage and achieved nothing, what a loser. Anyway, I got most of the stuff fixed now as they share with C class, which is available in pick a part, but the quarter glass took me some time to find, managed to get one from Germany without cost me my arm. now it's time to install it. Okay, I realized I tend to write a lot of nonsense before I actually start to ask the important question, so here it is How do I remove the remaining shattered glass that is still glued to the window frame effectively? I can currently pulling them off piece by piece now on piece #76, and got them everywhere. thanks, guys

wow, looks awesome, can I come to have a look this weekend? what is that thing in the garage on the right?

So, the landlord got a job overseas, and suddenly I have to move out in three weeks, I was not prepared for it at all, I have three cars at the moment I am not lucky enough to park on the street(broken into 7 times in the last two years, wheels stolen once, car stolen once). I will be selling one car very soon, but I still want to find a place with off street parking. And I always wanted to find flatmates that have similar interests. So If you have a place for me or you are also looking for a place, flick me a message? I am in my 20s and is an intern web developer at Auckland Uni and I will be graduating from my masters really soon. I always pay rent on time and pretty tidy and quiet. I will be going to the city every day, so it needs to be like within 30mins drive to the city. I like the computer stuff, including video games, and latest tech, I don't spend all my time in front of the computer, I like a good workout session and a nice multi-day tramp. I like cars, all kind of cars (as long as it is not stanced or riced), and I enjoy working on them. So If it sounds like we can get along, flick me a message maybe? Not sure If it is allowed to post such post here, but I figure I am more likely to find someone that share some kind of interest here.

thanks, I searched last time, it was close to $200, which I cannot justify since both my other cars doesn't require such a tool for ball joints. But now I found one on eBay for $40, US, which is not that bad. I might try to hack it in first, and get the tool if it won't go in.

Okay, I guess I will try to get it in by force then? I am thinking to lube it really well, put a chain around the control arm and the jack and put the ball joint on the jack and jack it into the control arm.

Hi, I am going to do the front outer ball joint on my E36 beater this weekend, I have a ball joint separator that should be able to get the old one off, but I figure it will be rather difficult to get the new one in without a balljoint toolkit (C clamp with adapter type). Does anyone in Auckland have one that I can borrow for a few days? Many thanks Richard

Been driving the e36 for more than a week now, the wheel didn't come off when I am on the motorway despite I reused the two bolts which connect the struct to the knuckle, so that's good. But the new struct mount made a previously almost unnoticeable vibration into a slight shaking. It only happens above 90kph, worsen with speed. I have done rear trailing arm bushes, I have done front lower control arm bushes, I have replaced the driveshaft and flex disc. I have balanced the tires, so I guess it's the ball joint on the control arm. the inner ball joint looks fine? no crack on the boot, so I will attempt to only replace the outer ball joint and see what happen. The new strut mount made the car sit about one and a half finger higher at the front. it is the right part but seems like many third party part supplier used the same moulding for many different BMW struct, and the thickness of the part is a compromise between different model to save cost. the higher front suspension clearly made the car more understeer, as the rear used to step out at the roundabout in the rain if I lift off mid-corner, but now it won't. Every time I replace a wore suspension part on this car, the state of the old part always made me think that now the new part is on, it should be driving good now, but it just eliminate one problem and make others more pronounced. But I think I can get there eventually. And then I can think about whether to get a tidy 328i 5mt or do the conversion myself on this crap.

I am quite new to BMWs, but I have seen m52tu in z3 that is clearly misfiring does not throw any code. And I have had a Suzuki Swift Sport back in China with highish kms that hesitates and splutters only in 2nd and 3nd WOT at low rpm. it didn't throw any code but turned out the coil pack rubber is old, and for some reason, it is sparking between the spark plug tube and the cylinder head, not on the spark plug causing misfires. Since both your bimmer have n52, maybe swap the plugs and coil pack just to be sure?

So, I bought the $60 impact, and it worked alright. The nut came off, and my handtool socket didn't explode. The nut was hugely over torqued by whoever changed the front damper. I only got time to change one side yet. And I noticed it sit quite a bit higher due to the thickness of the strut mount I used. Now I am not a fan of stanced car, but the higher front does look a bit strange, and I don't know if it will introduce more understeer due to the lifted front suspension?

Thanks, I will use my own socket with the impact. I figure if I break your tool. I will never ever be able to receive help here anymore, can't risk it. And since I don't have to use the hex bit with impact anyway. I will try to vise griped the shaft over a rag. I soaked it with wd40 many times. I don't have a heat gun. I do have a MSR propane burner, will that help?

I gave it another try today, I changed the spring compressors to a few different spots to reduce pressure at the top hat as much as possible. But it still would not come off, probably the previous garage who changed the strut used the impact gun on it for too long? I took the strut to a few garages near me, but can't settle a deal for less than a shop hour, they all want to charge me the standard price for a strut mount change just to undo the nut despite they don't have any customer because of the heavy rain. I saw a cheap Chinese made a corded 12v impact on a facebook group for $60 with a quoted torque rating of 350nm, I wonder if that thing can zip it off? Would it damage my hand tool socket if I just use it with impact for once?

Everything on this car is super hard to take off, and I can't understand. The strut on normal car should fall off once the nut is loosen at the top, but this one I have to hammer it for 10 minutes before I can wiggle it out. And last time it took me four days to get the driveshaft off, every bolt and nut is a fight. Anyway, I really appreciate everyone's help. I am a bit busy at the moment, and the weather is sh*t, so I am going to leave it, and revisit it during weekend. Another question, I see the damper I have now have what appears to be m3 style swaybar end link bracket. Will e46 drop link fit on it？ I always wanted to reduce the body roll a little bit without losing too much ride quality, and most importantly with very little budget. I plan to use e36 6cylinder front swaybar with e46 endlink. Have anyone done it before? Thanks.

Okay, so this the setup. I can only get it the fit on the spring like this. I have done it on Subaru before, but this one is just not coming off.

So, borrowed the socket from Jacko, but still unable to loosen the nut. I fear any more force will break my tox bit. I think the reason is that my coil spring compressor can't fully remove the pressure on the top hat. My Spring compressor only fit onto the middle 3 coil of the spring, I have compressed them to a point where they are almost touching, but there is still no sign of loosening at the top. The remaining pressure is just from the top coil of the spring, I am going to soak the nut in lubricant and see what happens tomorrow.

It will be awesome if I can use it, I have an exam on Saturday, so I am not going to work on my car before that. Can I borrow it on Sunday? thanks in advance.

I know it is a dead thread already, but I forget to update the situation when I solved it. So here is something for future search. I bought the proper brake line spanner, and took it off at the next fitting, and replaced the damaged brake line. Don't forget to bleed the brake.

Is it a 22mm? I am still looking for a solution. It will be nice if I can borrow it for a day or two.

Seen this method on multiple forums, but My spark plug socket does not have a hex end. but thanks for the tip

If you are interested in cars, and to explore the dynamic of the car, learn proper car control, and like to learn to work on cars, the late 90s, early 2000 BMW is the best car for that. I am a uni student as well, I have an e36 with M43 that I use as a platform to learn to work on cars. Parts are cheap, and most importantly, there are many of them in pick a part. I bought mine with $500 with a leather interior like new, but everything else is rubbish, no rego, no wof. I have only used parts from pick a part a part from some powerflex bushing, now it drives really good. A few trips to pick a part, you can pretty much rebuild the cooling system and suspension with almost no money. I have found almost new water pump, all alloy radiator, metal thermostat housing, structs in really good condition, near new tires with alloy wheels already balanced for really good price, Get an e36,e46 with colour like silver or dark blue, you don't even need panel beater if you happen to have a minor accident. Comparing to other euro brands of the same budget, BMWs are so much better to work on then Audis, Vws , and Benzs because the problems are well documented. And because they are BMWs they have likely had a stupid previous owner who knew nothing about the car, you will never run out of stuff to fix. the engine wise I would say get an e36 or e46 with 4cylinder if you can't afford petrol. E36 with M44 5mt is the best option, but e46 with M43tu is also good, the power band of the m43 is quite narrow. it is dangerously slow sometimes if coupled with a 4at. I found the 4at from GM terribly bad. it's a "close ratio" 4 speed, meaning it's revving too high for the highway, and gearing way too long in first and second. But they still managed to achieve a very hash shift, it's remarkable. The torque converter clutch lockup logic is the stupidest of all 4at I have driven. 4at use 20% more fuel than 5Mt. The only reason to go for a 4at is that they are half the price of a 5mt. The inline sixes are nice, they are slightly more eco on long drive because of the final drive ratio and higher engine compression ratio, but 2.0 inline six use almost the smae amount of fuel as the 2.5 and 2.8. Inline six coupled with 5at gets very bad fuel eco in city stop and go traffic. In Auckland rush hour you will get 14~15L /100 with auto inline sixes. 5Mt will be like 11~12L while 5MT inline four will be 10L. 11L is it is 4at . Do not test drive an inline six BMW if you can only afford an e36 with 4at, they are addicting and there is no way back. I borrowed an e46 325i 5mt for two days, and now I hate the m43 every day. E36's slow steering rack is perfect for learning to use the steering wheel correctly(which 80% of the driver in Auckland don't). E36's soft suspension is good for some of the bumpy backroad. the power of E36 318is with 5mt allow you to go flat-out everywhere and still can slide around in the wet to make it exciting. I honestly don't know why old Toyota Corolla is so overpriced, and people still buy them. many models from Nissan from the same era provide similar reliability at half the price.

Hi, I am changing my strut mounts on my e36, but I can't undo the nut that hold the mount to the shock shaft. Is there any workaround without using the special socket or impact? Thanks

Can't seems to be able to find flared spanner anywhere? SCA doesn't have them in stock. I have tried a few hardware store, and have had no luck.