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Everything posted by modz
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3 Pedals are better than no pedals... For the drive-by-wire pedal conversion, and to remediate some rust I had to cut out the old Accel pedal mount and fab up my own. Extended the slot in the carpet and got it all in. Because of access / space constraints, I'm wiring the car up with the ECU in the engine bay to get it running. I've got a spare accel pedal to wire up and use outside of the car while I'm getting it going.
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@Michael cheers! I’m pretty fussy so tend to go overboard on builds... re exh wrap I tend to agree. Usually I HPC on my race and drag cars. But as a road car the cert man wanted it as a heatsheild for the steering column so I’ve had to do it. It might not stay on there long term
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More pics out of order, but sharing is caring...lol After realising my manifold needed to be extended 130mm (plus a slight angle) I found some pipe at work and jumped on the 3phase mig. Super greatful to have a fab room in my office....! Once that was done I wrapped both headers and installed with brand new gaskets and nuts. Very happy with how this turned out
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Some pics of the carpet in. Wasn't a simple job but so much nicer than bare floor I'd been staring at for nearly a year. I dyed it using VHT spray dye from Navy to charcoal. Still looks a bit navy in some lights but came up well, especially against the houndstooth trim.
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So the missus went out for drinks one night (pre Covid) and I was a bit bored. So thought I'd give the Tail lights a good going over. Selected the best 2 out of the pile and went to work. Rubber restore on the best gaskets Disassembled the housings Gave them a bath - dishwash liquid to the rescue! After a good dry and blow out with an air hose they had a plastic polish. Came up pretty well. Now they're in storage wrapped up in bubble wrap until they can be fitted.
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Jeepers. Has been a while since the last update. Lots happened. I'm not going to try to update this in order so will add posts as I find / align pictures. Brief run down of tasks: Driveshaft shop driveshaft installed Driveshaft hoops installed Med case LSD Rebuilt cv's New wheel bearings pressed in Adjustable susp all round installed New brake pads / discs all round, braided lines Ditched the replica IS Lip and replaced with genuine BMW OEM (fits MILES better) Installed all remaining engine components (Y Pipe for brake booster, inlet, MAF, throttle body, injectors etc as per. All rebuilt, cleaned or replaced before install) Stripped the E39 530i loom Installed a M54 > E30 facelift loom Replaced the dash with crack free version Installed restored vents, HVAC panel Pedal box installed Clutch hard and soft lines finished New NOS carpet installed (after dyed charcoal) New hockey stick / c pillar trim gaskets New door rubbers I'll cover off some of these with pics shortly
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Hi all, I'm not far off starting the M54B30 I've built for my E30. As it's sat with no oil in the sump (has assembly lube on everything and oil dropped down the bores), I want to ensure I have oil pressure before I crank it properly. Current thoughts are: Fill with oil Remove sparks Unplug fuel relay Crank briefly Remove rocker cover and check for oil Note: I did not put vasoline etc in the pickup to create vacuum as I have done on previous engine builds as I wasn't sure how long it would be until I started this one. This may be tedious but without an oil pressure gauge I'm not sure how else to tackle it. Anyone have better ideas? Also how long would you expect to crank before seeing oil in the head? Thanks
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Subbed. Great to see another charger being restored / modded. I started a VJ Charger; brought in a 5.7 Hemi from USA for it then sold it all. Possibly one of my bigger regrets!
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Why not just use eBay? Plent of sellers on there. sign up for a free nz post Youshop account with UK address, get it shipped there then here.
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PMd
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Cheaper to buy one ex UK. About $100NZD landed.
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Where abouts was this done?
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Looking to borrow a bearing separator to do my e30’s rear wheel bearings happy to pay tracked postage to/from thanks
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^ what Brent said. Which is how E46's and others work. Much simpler. Otherwise nothing found on RealOEM https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1413-USA-11-1990-E30-BMW-325i&diagId=21_0004 But I did see this: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/BMW-E34-Clutch-Tank-Reservoir-Bracket-Holder-1159110-21521159110/293105794215?hash=item443e777ca7:g:aq4AAOSwOhdc7jf3
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I used a manual e30 crossmember
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Re removal, there’s a large nut on the driveshaft which you undo then the 2 sections slide apart.
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I’m doing basically this in my M54b30/ZF e30 (which from memory has the same driveshaft style as the 318ti). Im supplying driveshaft specialties the front section of my e30 and e46 auto driveshaft. They’re cutting the front flange off the e46 one so I can run the larger 6 cyl guibo and the rear section from the e30 so I can still use the e30 centre bearing. There will be new pipe welded in the middle at the correct length and then balanced. HTH
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Wondering how different the bracket is for the E30....?
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@WYZEUP thanks was the place that sold the seat brackets EuroTurbo by chance? Re caster, yeah the 66's would have fitted but I prefer the M3 wheels anyway. I should have said the LCA's aren't even bolted in in those pics which is why they're so far back in the arch. I've got some Condor speed shop solid offset bushes to try this week, otherwise will def go for SRS.
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Next up: Dash out (crack free going in) Seat belt mounts Drive shaft hoops Rear end back together / cv rebuilds Power Steering install Shifter install Finish wiring Finish fuel system and heaps more....
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Short Shifter Picked up one of Arron (bm speedshop) in the very early days; and has been sitting on my shelf since. Finally had the chance to mock it up to check clearance etc. Very nice piece of kit. Initial pics are with the E36 base which has now been replaced with the E30 version (middle pic)
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Blacked out I always wanted to Shadowline the trim, and replace the rear quarter windows with the better condition ones I had, so after much cleaning, prepping and sanding I had this result