Turning_Point

sorry its a 318i, not sure why i never stated that in the auction - have edited now. yeah ideally i really have no idea what people are paying for cars these days, i figured i could sell the rims + leather interior for 1k individually so the body of the car must be worth at least 1k? i could be wrong but again im very ignorant when it comes to the car market. i saw on tme there was a 318 same year with the whole front end smashed up and going for around the same price http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-192537341.htm >>> seats WITH door cards with a buy now of 1k http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-193501921.htm this is the car i was referring to above

Hey guys, selling my BMW as i have finally purchased a run around now. Wanting to sell as a whole but can sell with just the shell with no wheels and/or no leather seats. Open to all offers as long as it is reasonable. 021 298 4723. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...624&ed=true Trademe link above. Regards = )

Great thanks for all your help silver fox, i think ill be able to bleed it. Ive managed to get the housing off, i accidently took the bit off that the top house connects to at first... *woops* so ive chucked it in a pot with boiling water from the kettle and this is the result of the bastard... would it be fair to say its buggered? its only opening maybe .5cm? how much do brand new ones go for these days from the likes repco

okay so its safe to undo the hoses, i wont need to replace the coolant etc after removing the thermostat?? cause ill give that go if thats the case.

i see, there is lots of resistance there, it wont spin freely by any means. oh yes, i only felt it after the temp gauge read half way, that would be only water temp, not actual engine temp. and its a 91 e36 318 4 door

Okay so there is two fans, thers a little one behind the grills. thats not spinning. i assume it only spins when air passes through the car when travelling? .. the massive fan behind the radiator is spinning as its belt driven ...is there some way i can test why either of those are fault. Also just read on the bently manual that if the top radiator house is not hot to touch after car reaches operating temp, then the thermostat might not be opening? as this is the case, top hose is not hot/warm to touch at all

Hey thanks for the reply where abouts is this? how big is it out of 10 on the, rape all my money scale lol. i havent noticed any leaks as such and havent needed to top it up, ill probaly need to now though since it stemmed out last nite

Hey guys, havent posted here in donkeys years Have a bit (huge) problem with my gypsie vehicle. Yesterday i had a pretty bad day haha, car gets towed by ace bastards from domion rd, i had to walk into the city and get it back... 200$ later i got the car back and drove it to my friends and all of a sudden whenever i sit idle the car will just overheat and go straight to red (now its done that a couple of times in the past, but as soon as the car gets going its sweet again) but now its just constantly hitting the red as soon as it stuck at lights etc. :'( Help! I think this is going to cost me a lot of money, that i dont have. Possible thermostat? or water pump?... Many thanks in advance

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...amp;permanent=0 For Anyone Interested

cool, a drummer. how long you been playing for?

got a few kms on it aswell by the pic. have u had it ever serviced? ... flushes or anything??

congrads bro. thats great news hahaha. yeah hard or power bar to the face

yeah thats right guys. hahaha definantly a e30 based forum here ive noticed and its all good personally i like newer shape cars.. but the above poster has got it spot on, cant do a hell of a lot with an e36. but e30 from my point of view is much more performance orientated.. thus if i was starting a speed project, id go e30...but im lazy/poor/ and incapable of looking at a car that doesnt go for long periods of time anyways..you gotta love an a/m turbo'd e30 !!!

nice ^^. just gotta get that around my head. you seem very knowledgeable

pretty snazz bro i agree with above comments . tints and clear indicators then ull be away haha yeah mine was loud as when i got mine, just ended up changing mine back to a standard system haha. dont raise it up though

who cares. as long as you keep servicing your car and you dont go to red (and u can still use ur mates reset tool) for some odd reason.. ive never had to get mine reset.. its never changed

yeah transmission. id get that checked if i were you. otherwise it could be gone-burgers for your tranny. probably just low on fluid. or maybe theres just an electrical fault, hence the light.

haha oh yeah thats pretty good suspension then i assume, dont want to fiddle with that too much. yeah super lows would go alright..and good thing you mentioned that, i knew i forgot to mention something. compressing springs in a mechanical sense, is as bad as cutting springs as the heat tempering destroys the spring's spring rate properties and so forth (gypsys at spring compressing places will tell you its perfectly fine and nothing changes...but how could shorter springs have the same spring rate as opposed to when it was original..go figure), its only advantage as it retains the shape of the spring (pretty useful for rear springs since their a weird shape) you can get your springs compressed at snells springs in penrose (best place as they will do any amount of compressing).. for already lowered springs id only compress about 50-60mm any more, and you'll get cronic saggage. costs about 130$ a pair, and you'll have to leave them overnight

what gypsy hahaha

i agree with the above post..i sent your trademe link to my friend and quoted "the best e36 ive seen in trademe in a loooong time" only improvement would be if it had 4 doors can i ask where you scored your sweet front bumper from *game is loading*

another question that could be said is...what looks better

hahaha small world it seems.

if your talking to me... (cant have a bma that doesnt tuck, unless its a m series one...thats my personal opinion ) anyways..like my above post, mines cut in the rear...and if you dont mind a tiny bit of bumpyness ..and im not understating that ...then crank out the angle grinder..its really not as bad as people perceive. otherwise if you want to go legit, get some super lows, look like uve already got some in there...and get your shocks shortned, as it seems the shock travel, play a big part into how much the springs compress.. but to be honest super lows...arent "super" low at all haha.

i think its time they live up to their adds and reputation. so i would go and have a mean bitch at them, if not...write to their head office..or directly to that fag thats on the adds ( i assume thats the owner..or someone high up )

could be just a gay bar amp. i used to run a lightning bolt amp...every time i changed songs it'd go "doooof" and do what your saying now switched to another amp, and no problems