Vass

That's the one. Part itself isn't too expensive but getting to it is a bit of a mission so labour will be the biggest chunk of the cost unless you go the DIY route. Ideally, you'd do both sides as well - if one's worn out then the other likely won't be far behind either. Then once it's all apart, you might discover the shocks are worn out as well and have no rebound... 

Who are those parties you mentioned, if you don't mind me asking?

7 hours ago, Arata said:

Thanks for the info Vass.

so you suggest to take it to the shop and just get hardness test instead of pressure test?

Basically. The way they explained it to me was that the hardness test will give an indication of whether the engine had overheated at some point or not, and if it hasn't then the head won't have problems sealing or holding pressure, so long as the surfaces have remained flat. You can easily check the top of the block and bottom of the head with a straight edge and a feeler gauge. Have a quick look on YouTube to see how it's done, a feeler gauge will be something like $15-20 from one of the retailers.

When doing my rebuild, was told that pressure testing is an awful lot of hassle and not commonly done. A hardness test usually gives enough of an indication on whether the head is good or not, and that's just a quick 2 minute test. I'd get that done and get the thing hot tanked at a shop. Potentially, get the shop to install the stem seals whilst they're at it as well, also check the valve seats for pitting and correct that if needed. Valve lapping isn't really a thing on modern engines apparently. Removing the collets and springs with a punch could damage the valve guides so unless you have a special valve clamp tool it might be best to leave it to the pros.

1 hour ago, Karter16 said:

Front strut brace was added from March 2002 production onwards. Given this is an '02 it's possible it didn't come with one from the factory.

Ahh right, didn't know that. My bad. 

My mate picked one up for fairly cheap a bit over a year ago, also an early 2005 model. His first ever BMW and has been cursing it ever since. In the time he's had it, in addition to working on it himself, he's had it in at BM Workshop nearly every month for stuff he couldn't figure out and has spent multiples of what he originally paid for it in repairs. Vanos issues, some electronic airflow flap (not sure what it is on the N52, looked like an equivalent of a DISA flap from an M54) had completely fallen apart, constant check engine lights for emissions codes, airbag lights and annoying me chimes, sunroof leaking and so on. To top it off the fuel pump gave up one day and left him stranded. His did have around 120-130k km's but with age I think they'll all start having issues regardless of km's.

Another mate with a 525i started having issues with the rear air suspension leaking and the compressor giving out as well. 

You'll definitely have a better time of it if you're hands on but replacement parts are noticeably more expensive than the older counterparts and the added complexity doesn't help either. 

58 minutes ago, KwS said:

Classic dealer trying to get premium money with minimal work.

Yeah, typical. They've also got an "ICONIC M CAR - 6-SPEED MANUAL - CLEAN UNMODIFIED" M3 that was clearly SMG from factory. That, with the swirled up paintjob and horrifically scratched up interior plastics can be yours today at a bargain price of $55k. As an added bonus, the factory strut bar has also gone off for a wander somewhere, because weight reduction.

What the hell is up with those misaligned tailpipes? Cannot unsee it.

Or, alternatively:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/4232455827

https://www.trademe.co.nz/4229101961

Ended up doing an engine swap 😅

But for the new b30 I found a guy up on the North Island that was selling already rebuilt valves through Trademe for $250 iirc, then sent him my old DISA as a core for I think $50 back. He had the flap replaced for a metal one as well as a new diaphragm.

Just checked and he doesn't have any listings on TM at the moment, username was 'brtsnz' so might have quietened down a bit, but you could also find him on FB, goes by Bruce Perkinson, quite a helpful fella and was pretty active in some of the FB groups.

For the O-ring I just went to Seal Innovations and got a few spare viton O-rings in case I'm taking the thing out again at some point. Couldn't tell you the size off the top of my head though, sorry. 

I've seen it in the flesh sometime last year when I bought a set of wheels from the owner. Did look mighty tidy, always took it to Eurocare, servicing hasn't been skimped out on. Whether it's worth the $12k he's asking in today's market I wouldn't know but definitely a very nice example. 

50 minutes ago, Driftit said:

This is why I wish there was more Waze users in NZ. Radar detectors are mostly useless if your the only car on the road. 

In the US that cop would have been marked on the map and Waze would have warned you. Saved my ass a number of times on the i95. And saved me from hitting a Highway couch a few times too. I think I am 1 of about 5 users in the Wairarapa. 😢

I suspect it's down to the absolute robbery the telecom companies are getting away with in NZ. I'm always having to be super frugal with data over there. I'm currently in Europe for the summer and am using Waze all the time. Here you can get an unlimited data plan for $10-15/month, in NZ I'm paying $30 for like 1.5GB so having to skimp out wherever I can... It's 2023 ffs, the cheapest unlimited data plan is what, $70? f**k that jazz

13 minutes ago, Toksis said:

I want to replace my VVT motor actuator.

But checking on the DIY there is this thing called BMW Three bond sealant to be place on every half moon shape on part of my n46 engine before putting back the valve cover.

Is there an alternative for that sealant?  Thank you.
https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkx3xath8-lk1vlYVEa42xK-iFRcwQJHIa4

Don't think there's anything special about that sealant in particular. Any sort of automotive RTV should be fine, usually grey is the best stuff to use, like this one or any other brand equivalent:

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/permatex-permatex-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-rigid-high-torque---ultra-grey-99g/5359.html#q=Grey%2Brtv&lang=en_NZ&start=2

The M3 boot floor is different as well, basically there's no spare wheel compartment to accommodate the quad tip muffler running all the way across the rear. What that might be worth to anyone is anyone's guess. 

1 hour ago, elias said:

in an ideal world, you wouldnt pass if you had illegal modifications, if you dont, then you dont need a cert

In my case I swapped a 2.5L engine for a 3.0L one that are visually near on indistinguishable, and swapped an auto gearbox for a manual one using all factory parts, which I advised them on as well. Both modifications that by the book require certification. Passed WoF without faults and the mechanics even praised the tidiness of the work... The whole WoF process seems to be a roll of the dice kinda thing.

Wait, you actually have to fail a WoF when going for a cert? What if you pass? 

Speaking of... parked next to this slammed beauty the other day over here in Esto land, complete with that bumper I like so much. Seems to line up pretty well. A bit too low for my liking but did look pretty sharp, possibly on air suspension even. Would have been keen to chat to the owner but didn't feel like waiting around like a complete creep.

I'm also reminded every day why I'd never consider having a nice car over on these shores... Couldn't bear putting any significant amount of care and effort into something only to watch it be eaten away by rust.

Anyhow, whilst I'm over here, quietly exploring the possibility of putting together a few pallets of manual swap bits and shipping them over. Manual gearbox prices over here are veeery tempting, just need to figure out if the import costs would make the endeavor not worth the hassle. Got a very reasonable quote on shipping and handling on this end for a partial container load, now need to figure out what the import costs, duties and port handling stuff might run me back on the NZ side.

If anyone's been through the process or has any contacts in the imports / customs broker fields, I'd be very keen to hear about it.

Cheers

Not something that's going to happen in the very near future but eventually I'm thinking about respraying the whole car, and at that point I'll probably source a replacement bumper as the current one is all sorts of shagged and is held together with zip ties in a few places. Possibly leaning towards an M3-style one a fella sells down here that comes with a euro plate holder in the kit. Euro plates wouldn't be far off at that point either. Might be a questionable style choice but I reckon it looks quite sharp on facelift cars.

On 6/12/2023 at 12:12 AM, balancerider said:

Roof rail delete is 🔥 @Vass! That JDM front plate plinth is making my teeth itch though

Yeah it ain't great but not sure if it'd look much better on a Euro plate trim bit either. Will figure something out eventually, still have plenty of mechanicals to address before I get onto that though.

On 6/12/2023 at 12:20 PM, _ethrty-Andy_ said:

doesnt look to be a lot of interest in keeping this thread alive, never the less, it serves as a good build diary for me in the future, and prehaps the next own if it is ever sold !

Nah don't you stop! I'm a few hundred thousand km's behind and not on the original engine anymore but hoping to get to half a million as well one day, this serves as an inspiration

Keen to see some photos of how those E53 seats sit in there. I've got a set sitting in the garage as well but they'll need a good restoration before I throw them in.

Finally got onto cleaning up the manual diff. Disassembled the thing, gave it a good clean with a bunch of wire brushes, hit it with rust converter/primer and a few coats of paint, then resealed and put back together. Made for some pleasing before and afters.

Then went on a hunt for the culprit of the clunk but still couldn't pinpoint it with any certainty. Jacked the car up and had a mate operate the clutch. Clunks like a bastard every time the clutch is engaged to go into gear.

Video

Found a few videos on YouTube as well with exactly the same issue, combed through all the comments but doesn't seem like anyone's found a definitive answer either. Some are blaming the dual mass flywheel, some say it's driveline slop and their mechanics are claiming it's perfectly normal. I somehow doubt it. 

Regardless, got onto swapping out the diff. Tried reproduce the clunking with the driveshaft disconnected but all seemed fine with no load on the gearbox. Had another try once the shaft was connected to the diff and still all good. But then with the axles hooked up to the diff the noise came straight back. The search continues.

Bit disheartened, bolted everything back up to go test out the manual diff and was pleasantly surprised to discover that the clunk had became much harder to reproduce. Definitely still there if you're looking for it but nowhere near as prominent under normal driving circumstances. Going from a 3.38 diff to a 2.93 fixed the gear ratios right up, 1st gear actually became usable and overall the car was now more pleasant to operate. Properly enjoyed driving it for the first time since the swap... 

... just in time to park her up for the next 3 months as I'm off to Europe to catch up with family after 4 long years. Will pick up where I left off in September ✌️

If you made a spare set of those speaker adapters, I'd happily throw some money at you.

Not gonna lie, looks like a pretty cool build to me, quite clean too. $20k is what some are asking for automatic sedans nowadays, would rather this any day of the week.

7 hours ago, Driftit said:

https://www.repco.co.nz/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/penrite-hpr-5-5w-40-engine-oil-6l-hpr05006/p/A1220550

40% off Penrite 5w40 HPR5

I picked up a bunch last Mothers Day weeked at this price from Supercheap. 

Might be mistaken but wasn't the supercheap deal on 5L jugs? This might be a better deal ok 6L

Saw that pop up on Trademe a while ago. Nice that it's low mileage and all but honestly, $20k? As far as E46's go, there's literally nothing desirable about that spec for any collector to blink twice at. Least desirable body shape, least desirable gearbox, midrange engine, non-Msport, no rare factory goodies like auto lights & wipers etc. etc. No matter the km's, all the usual rubber and plastic components under the hood will be getting hard and brittle with age and will need replacing in due course anyway if it's ever destined to do more than the annual 20km to the WoF shop and back. Maybe in another 10 years time the E46 prices will start creeping up to the heights of today's E30's? In the here and now though, a real enthusiast would go for something like this, surely.