rusteee

Cheers for the advice, would the shock from the hammer not damage the water pump or pulley bearings? I'm hoping to find the 2 proper tools, but if not I suppose I will try the screwdriver method

Hi there Anyone in Auckland has these tools they would like to sell, or I could borrow? Or can suggest somewhere to purchase from. Would rather have the correct tools for the job than trying to make do with something else. Cheers

Just to add my 5c =D we've had quite a demand for heat pumps in the last few weeks, and they really all do vary in the frosty mornings. The units with the smaller outside evaporators are usually the worst, the fan speed is so high and the evaporator so small, it frosts up really quick. Mitsubishi is probably the best overall with the smaller inside evaporator and the large outdoor unit with lower fan speed, seems to keep the heat pouring out in the frost. Best thing with a unit that cant keep up is to keep the thermostat set to something realistic (say 16 degrees if its minus 2 outside), and dont have the fan speed flat out, have it set to say mid scale. This way it will slow the heat exchange down and prevent the outside unit frosting up so soon, but still bring adequate heat from the inside unit. Once its caught up then set it to your comfy temperature. Alot of people make the mistake of just cranking them to the max, turning the outdoor unit into an iceblock before it has a chance to defrost.

Yeah I thought that would be the case but thought I would ask first, as I havn't done a coupling before. I was not liking the thought of bleeding the cooling system as well as it should have been done while the rest was getting done really not happy about that. I'm hoping at least the water pump was done, as all in all it did cost a fair bit. I know these things are prone to fail, but I don't have the facilities to do those things, so I trust mechanics to do it for me. Need to find someone reliable I can drop my car off for a week and have all the issues resolved

Hi guys. I have a 2002 E39 530, and have a couple of questions. Firstly, is it possible to replace the viscous fan coupling without having to drop the coolant and remove the expansion tank completely? And how can you tell whether this car has a latent heat accumulator, or is it in every model? Also I've had an issue with a belt squealing problem and rough idle when cold start, since having the cooling system done (minus the fan coupling for some stupid reason). Upon doing a service, our local mechanic has spotted the harmonic balancer rubber has come a drift slightly in parts, and looks slightly worn, which he showed me to prove. This is probably a question for Glenn, but could this be causing the squealing belt noise? Upon taking the car back many times after the cooling system done to have the noise sorted initially, it had the alternator replaced, and extra idler pulley added and few other bits an pieces, getting rather expensive so i gave up, and the noise always came back. Is it a major job to have the harmonic balancer replaced? My local mechanic isn't going to touch it as he's not too sure with BMW. Cheers Russ Edit:(added pic just to show what I mean)

Yeah, I suppose that is a good way to go about it thanks. Looking at the pics, it really does look like the rocker cover gasket is leaking quite bad. The old gasket never leaked, but I had it replaced at the same time as the VANOS to prevent something like this from happening as I hate having to have things done more than once, which seems to be a common occurance on this car hahaha just like trying to be a good samaritan and having preventative maintence done when I first brought the car was the worst thing that happened to it lol, never been quite the same. Always a nice drive though, so money well spent =D gotta love E39 Had the check engine light come on again tonight so might have to take some time off to have it taken in and scanned before something really does go wrong.

Don't think so? The oil coming out isn't power steering fluid, its engine oil viscocity/colour.

The hose leak, im sure its the crimp because its sort of pooled around the top of the crimp, but i suppose hard to tell. Does refirgerant or oil flow through it do you know?. Can't be the fan blowing it around as the viscous coupling is had it as well, tut tut the list goes on have a new one coming though. I have had the rocker cover gasket done aswell at the same time the VANOS was done, but yes that is leaking too I'm over having to get things done more than once. Any idea what can be done to seal the rocker cover gasket?, as it is a brand new one, maybe 2 months old max.

Hi guys. I have an 02 E39 530i, Had the check engine light come today, not too sure why as yet. Popped the bonnet to have a quick look and noticed a couple of oil leaks (don't think its related to the light), which looks to be leaking out of the hose crimp on the large black hose from the A/C compressor, and the other looks like VANOS solenoid (as per pics)? Very disheartening given the amount of work including the VANOS thats been done on this car. What is the hose connected to the AC, will the system need to be opened up to replace the hose? Anyone have any recommendations where I can take it, to have both these issues sorted first time? Is this a common issue with these hose crimps, as I notice my power steering one is leaking aswell. I live in the Waikato regions (Te Kauwhata) but travel to Auckland on weekends, which is usually the only time I have to get the car anywhere. Will also need the car scanned to see what the check engine light came on for. Cheers

No, the noise sort of gets fobbed off by mechanics lol and I wouldnt have a clue. I've had the cooling system done on this, but don't think the viscous coupling was done as its absolutely buggered doesn't seem noisy from there though. I have had the VANOS unit done, but unfortunately the rattle from that has come back also, maybe its related? Cant really say its affecting the performance of the car though. Let me know if you find anything with your one.

Hard to say exactly because I had other work done at the same time, while they had the car. The vanos parts (mine being dual vanos) which was the seals and rattle fix kit was $170 all up incl shipping. I also purchased the rocker cover gasket set, left thread bolts, VANOS gasket and oil filler cap gasket from Milland all up I think was $107 incl shipping. All the rest was on labour, but as I say, I had other stuff done at the same time so don't know for sure. In saying that, all up including all other work, was a small price to pay for such an improvment to the car.

Just thought I'd share the results from the VANOS repair. My E39 530 just had a much needed trip to HELLBM and had the VANOS unit done, both the seals and the rattle fix kit. Very impressed with the results! Immediately noticed the increased pull from take off, started/idled a lot smoother, no more horrible rattle or engine pinging. Have only done about 60kms since being done, but the difference is incredible. Symptoms I had with my car other than the rattle, were rough cold idle, dull in the lower rev range, and engine pinging if under load (up hills etc). Took it in, and he plugged the diagnostics in, which tested the VANOS response through certain revs and confirmed it was faulty. So just like to say a big thanks to HELLLBM!!, done a fantastic job on diagnosing and repairing the VANOS, and solved me a lot of frustration. Anyone looking at getting this done, it made a hell of a difference to my car for a very small cost, almost like a new lease on life =D.

Oh I see, apparently the rocker cover gasket had been done but pft I doubt it. All the plugs etc have been done so theyre all good. Did you get the bolts and vanos cover gasket from milland.co.nz aswell?

What other bits did you need other than the kit and the tools? I want to make sure I have everything before the kit arrives

Bugger, I just ordered the extra nylon vice grips (didn't do it on the first order) paying an extra 17USD for a 15USD product about 10 mins ago wouldn't have minded getting a couple more kits, I know my E36 needs doing. Where did you get the bolts from?

Finally got it to work sorry, thats the new link

Bugger, I've uploaded it about 5 times ill try again soon. Yea we diagnosed the VANOS unit was really buggered when it was scanned and the results from the VANOS unit were way outside what they should be. Have the parts already coming for that (new seals and rattle fix kit). Would it really resonate that much through the engine though? When listening through the stethoscope the VANOS really does sound horrible. Other than that I couldnt trace any odd noises

Thankyou. Sorry, could anyone get the video to go? Have been having heaps of trouble trying to upload it. I had the entire cooling system redone, oil filter changed, and all sorts done on this car. For the first week I owned it, the car was silent. As soon as I decided to get all the cooling system done, things started to go wrong . Spose thats what happens at this mileage. I'm just about to go have a listen under the car with a stethoscope like Glenn suggested in the earlier posts, and see if I can pin point exactly where its coming from.

Hi again, sorry to bring up the old thread again, but thought it'd be better then starting a new one. 2002 E39 530i, The friggen noises this car makes , yet another rattle. I suspect it is in the region of cam chain/tensioner/guide? but thought I'd put the video on, hoping someone may have an idea. The car has done 220k and has had quite a bit of work done to it recently, this noise has only started recently. Does it every time on warm start, and when engine warm at low revs, decelerating (not so much when cold). Sounds to be coming from the front lower area of the engine. I will try buy a stethiscope today and locate exact. Doesn't seem to have any effect on performance. The VANOS unit is definitly faulty and will be taken care of soon, but I'd say the VANOS has been buggered for some time, and not related to this noise. I know its hard to tell from video but hopefully its enough to pick up on. Thanks guys

Does the timing not have to be locked to do this procedure?

Well, the noise exposed itself. Driving along and the bloody big under engine plastic cover flew off! Picked it up had a look at it, dont even know what was still holding it there?? Must have been rattling against the bumper as looks like that was about all holding it up. The noise has now gone now on to finding a replacement. Just thought I'd update. Cheers for the help guys =)

Cheers Glenn. Yea I know it should be checked out properly, but have a hard time getting it anywhere weekdays because of work and don't know anyone open on weekends which is fair enough =) . You don't know any workshops open on weekends do you?

Hi guys Have a 2002 E39 530i which has a weird (not too sure how to describe) noise coming front engine area. Sounds sort of a popping or worn bearing noise? I made a video of it so you can hear, hopefully should be able to hear the noise in the background. Has anyone got any ideas of what it might be? Performace of car is mint, only issue is when cold, idle is pretty rough for the first 30 seconds or so, then evens out. Not sure if thats related or not. Cheers for the help http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGYauYkOXb0

Hi there. Finally got the new car and loving it. Only issues I've found is the memory buttons for seat etc don't really work correctly. If I push button '3' the seat and wheel will move to a random position. Buttons '1' '2' and 'M' do nothing at all. I read through the manual on how to programme etc, but upon pushing the 'M' no light or anything comes on, and does not keep the settings. I've checked the plug on the side of the seat to ensure all in correctly etc, but no issues there. Does anyone know what may be causing this? Also the drivers window will not auto up. It will auto down OK, and all other windows are fine, but it will not auto up. Could this possibly be an issue with the pinch senor? If so does anyone know how to test it? Cheers in advance

=D Finally made a purchase. Ended up with the very first one I put on this thread. High KM's but driving wise you wouldn't even notice, tight as a pin, excellent condition and really well maintained (clean oil cap too ). Had it checked out by the best so was a pretty confident purchase. Thanks for all the help guys!! Much appreciated