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rusteee

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Everything posted by rusteee

  1. Hi there Hopefully someone gets what I mean lol, this is proving a bit of a mish to get. There are 2 little fresh air flaps that sit in the sides of the heater fan motor enclosure, which open for fresh air, and close for recirculate. The drivers side one (the control flap which controls the passengers side one) on my car has broken so its stuck on recirculate, so I need the drivers side flap. Could anyone supply the part I am after? Can supply photo if needed. Cheers
  2. Cheers for all the info guys!! bloody awsome. I checked out that one, but was pretty dissapointing. Just by taking off the oil cap you could tell it hadn't had a very good service history, and im sure I could smell coolant when I took it for a test drive lol so back to trademe. What about mechanical wise, is there any sort of issues in the earlier models (engine and electrics) that were sorted out in the later model if you get what I mean? Am looking more for an NZ new manual version
  3. Hi there. I'm looking at purchasing an E46. I spotted a nice 1999 E46 323I on trademe, UK import, 5 speed manual and hopefully can go have a look at it tommorow. Can anyone point out any tips on what to look for i.e. problematic areas. Is there any common problems with the earlier model E46? Thanks in advance
  4. Oh good as thanks for that Glenn. Yea, was just wondering because last time it had a service it took 6 litres, and this service he said it took 7 litres i was a bit .
  5. What damage (if any) can it cause if it is slightly over #1? Ever since I've had my BMW, its been just over #1 level, and after every oil change its had, they fill it up to that same level.
  6. Oh thats good, I was hoping it was something like that. Yea I want to take it in and get it checked before it does gets worse, but seen as I live in the middle of nowhere, its hard to get the car to a specialist on a weekday lol. It does sound like the belt, or aircon, it's something that cuts in and out all the time anyways. Cheers for the help!! Much appreciated
  7. I have a 97 E36 320i, I started it up when cold and there is a hell of a rattle in the engine bay somewhere, but only seems to be when the heater is on? It sounds like the air-con, as it clicks on and off (and sounds like its in the vicinity of the alternator belt etc), but in saying that I never had the air-con on. Does the air-con compressor still run when you have the heater on? It also seems to get quieter as the car warmed up but still rattles. Also, I hit a goddam possum, and I wasn't exactly going slow. Suprsingly the damage wasn't too bad but it smashed the fog light out of the passengers side of the front bumper, and also I noticed there is something hanging down, looks like a rod (temperature sensor) of some sort, with 2 wires plugged into it. I don't wanna fiddle or try to find where it came from unless I know what it is, any ideas?? Cheers guys
  8. I am after a passengers side bonnet strut off a 97 E36 Sedan. Found out the hard way that its knackerd Anyone got one, or maybe a pair for sale? Cheers
  9. I had most of those ones on my watchlist lol, I was really keen on that green 'ACEBMW' NZ new one thats on there, but its all the way in Christchurch. I think I'll just have to be patient and keep an eye out, I'd rather get an NZ new one rather then another import, mostly for service reasons (people actually service them in NZ )
  10. Oh well thats good then, wish I had known that before I purchased this one lol. He doesn't speak too good english,and he was more of an audi man himself. Thanks for clearing that up though, its good to talk to people who actually know what they are talking about lol
  11. Sorry to start this one up again, but can you tell me what difference there is between the jap import, and the NZ new BMW's? (Apart for the gearbox issue). Is there any difference in the suspension? Or the make-up of the car?
  12. Yea well thats good, a challenge with electronics is fun Yea, NZ new atleast it should have been serviced properly. When I was looking for my first beema, (all imports) they all had the signs of the 'no oil change' syndrome from japan. Even the one I have now is like that, but no where near as bad as some.
  13. Na, our local mechanic is bloody good ay, Just doesn't like beema's very much, I asked the opposision local (bad choice i suppose), seen as he had a lot of experience with european, and thats where i got the info, he said the electronics is a nightmare?? I really didn't think there was anything mechanically different. But yea I think I'll be fixing the driveshaft in this one and selling it off. Oh and sorry 1Rotty the one I was looking at was NZ new M sport 1997 but auto (better then jatco i suppose), looks to have a reserve of $7500 137,000kms. It's a nice car but would be more interested in manual, there are a few but high milage.
  14. Oh really? I was hoping to get another one about the same era as my 320i (1997), there is one there but its motorsport, our local mechanic said motorsport is a hell of a lot more expensive to fix than standard is this true? Sorry for noob questions just not too familiar with motorsport.
  15. Yea that sounds about right ay. I have had a couple of prices and theyre both around $1850 - $2000 which I thought was pretty reasonable. I've had the car for maybe 2 or 3 moths now done around 8000kms in it. There are also a couple of niggly things that annoy me aswell and I spose its not worth spending all this money on it really just being a base model. Been looking for a while now and hopefully if I'm patient I may be able to pick one up for around $8000-$9000. How do the 328's stack up against the little 320 regarding parts cost? Or are they roughly the same?
  16. Thanks to Glenn from Botany Motorworx (Legend!!!), I finally had my car diagnosed properly, and the annoying vibration that no-one could find, was traced to the universal joint, and rubber disc on the driveshaft. Instead of having the driveshaft recond, I was just going to have a manual conversion done, seen as I prefer a manual anyway (and this one is a Jatco Auto). Some people say the car is not worth converting seen as it is a 320, so just sell it and buy a manual 325 or something bigger, and some say seen as the car is in really good nic, nice paint job etc, and has only done 117xxx kms (imported) that it would be, so i'm unsure. I really wouldn't mind a genuine Beema (NZ new), but don't have a lot of experience with BMW's. So, I am after people's opinions/experience, taking into consideration power/economy, is it worth getting a manual conversion done, or better off selling this one off and buying a manual one? Oh and the car is a 1997 E36 320i sedan, import. Cheers
  17. Really keen to do that 18 button OBC conversion in my 97 320i E36, I know it may not be worth it seen as its only a 320I but hopefully will be keeping it for a while. Has anyone got any of the parts needed to do this, that they weant to sell? I've been reading up on the thread about it, and I think all I need is the 18 button OBC, and white plug, possibly the indicator stalk aswell. Cheers
  18. Ok that's all good was just curious. How's your one going anyway? I'm hoping to get mine done soon while im on annual leave lol, it seems to love changing gear to quickly (eg 3rd to 4th when only doing 2500 RPM with foot down) when you really want it to move, unless of course i have it in sport.
  19. I havn't managed to have the gearbox tcu reset yet, but was wondering if that gas pedal trick works on the e36? If it does indeed work lol, or does it just have to be reset using the tool?
  20. Finally got somewhere with this. I took the car into the local mech, which of course it had him stumpt, also had the European specialist check it out, and they were at a loss. The idea they had was, because of the way the seat is designed I had a choice of either cutting the seat out by mean of cutting the floor of the car out, or destroying the seat completely, each one being a nightmare!! In desperation I had a last attempt at fixing the seat before just getting rid of the car. I jammed my finger right up the front of the sliding rail (near the front bolt) and I was so happy to find a screw, which had fallen down there and jammed up the rail xD So problem solved, in future no screws in pockets lol Cheers for all the help!!!
  21. Yea ive tried that too, they come out no worries, and the seat moves free as anything for that couple of inches, it just comes to a sudden stop as if thats where it was supposed to stop lol. I have looked everywhere under the seat in the rails etc looking for anything that could cause it to jam, but really cant find a thing wrong.... stumped and its not as if I forced the seat forward either
  22. Is it possible to take the seat off the rails without having to remove the rails? Am in a bit of a dilemma lol, had to drive a 2 hour trip with the seat right forward lol when normally I need it right back twas a tad uncomfy. I have even tried to break it, as in forcing it back as hard as I can hoping something would break and the seat would move, but damn they are solid x]
  23. Can warped rotors cause a shudder while driving? I know for sure my front rotors are warped as the steering wheel goes nuts when i apply the brakes softly, but I only thought it affected the car whilst braking. I to have the shudder, and have had driveshaft, wheel bearings etc fiiiiiiinally checked properly, but they are all ok. My car has the basic straight through driveshaft being a heap of s**t Jatco box x] so no guibo disc or anything like that.
  24. Ohk who's the second hand sponsor? Unfortunately I cant get at the 2 front bolts because the seat rail is too far up, it moves freely up till a couple of inches. I have looked around under there and really cant see anything that could be jamming it? Is it possible to remove just the seat without the rails?
  25. I moved my drivers seat forward today to get something out from underneath, and now when i try to move the stupid thing back it'll move about 2 inches and thats it, both latches are undoing etc but I cannot get it to move anymore. So the only thing i can think of doing is breaking it, I have tried forcing it back but it really is jammed after moving it back 2 inches. Was wondering if anyone knew how much it would be to replace the seat/ rails?
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