nzpanda92

So I got my service report back for my 550i and they have indicated I need to have the front discs replaced when I change my pads next. 28.4mm is the minimum thickness and I am currently at 28.2mm.
What sort of cost should I be expecting for something like this, and are there any recommendations on who would be able to carry this work out at some point? Auckland based. TIA.
 

Does anybody know where to obtain a copy of NZ maps for the iDrive CCC system? I have read it’s a DVD rather than a HDD version. Some say there are maps floating around online but others have reported it needs to be coded specific to the vehicle so those maps may not work.

I am aware the latest and final update was from 2014 or around that time. I was quoted something like $400 or so to have it updated in the shop (eeek).

I don’t need it but my OCD definitely kicks in when trying to keep the car as stock standard and functional as possible, and driving through Japanese waters on the map messes with me ??

If it helps, my iDrive is the Professional version. 
 

TIA

14 hours ago, Olaf said:

Buy from your BMW Dealer (the BMW batteries do seem to last forever), or from a good Independent BMW specialist.  Essential you get the coding and registration done, telling the DME is has a new battery, type (AGM), capacity... as it alters the charging charateristics with age.  Most battery shops will shy away from that voodoo, and your new battery won't last.  If you have a choice, go for the higher capacity (Ampere Hours). 

Mine's rocking a Koda, it seems very good.  I've stopped using AA Battery service, 'king hopeless round here. YMMV.

HTH

I've done a bit of reading on it - its very different from the normal jap cars aint it (sorry again as im new to euros!). I was thinking of getting it done properly because I did read somewhere there was a particular way of installing it so to not lose some kind of memory or code? Maybe I read wrong. Why exactly do you need to tell the DME that the battery has changed? Why does the car need to know that out of curiosity?

14 hours ago, Gaz said:

Should all be related therefore same claim, if it needs more then no further payment. The technical bulletin should say, do this first, if fault continues do this which will help

I did read that on that bulletin that you posted thank you - i noticed it said not to change the body and do the wiring harness first.. So far, so good and nothing is out of the ordinary but they didnt really give me a report of what they did other than on the receipt saying "throttle body repair loom"

14 hours ago, GorGasm said:

High drain might be nothing.  Just check if it comes back.

Unplug the IBS cable first if it does.

so far, no message since ive given it a drive around or so. will keep an eye on it. I am assuming the IBS is the cable connected to the battery in the boot?

11 hours ago, HalfJobHarry said:

This is why for me personally it's important to feel or be demonstrated that the 'root cause' of the issue has been located and fixed. If something almost exactly the same happens to you next week, it may well be the true root cause of the issue that was not located and you'll be on the hook for another $350 unfortunately, as it's going to be very hard to relate them together as at this point the issue is considered closed. 

Regarding batteries, my previous dealer replacement batteries have been Exide AGM batteries of the exact same capacity. I'd feel comfortable self replacing with Exide or Century. However as other have mentioned it is VITAL if you do change the chemistry or capacity (I really wouldn't suggest moving from AGM to a wet battery through!) that you 'recode' the DME to understand the new capacity. Battery coding is not complicated (INPA and ISTA-D cand do it), also most scan tools that the Indys have can do this easily (but it's one of those 2 minute easy jobs they like to charge about $90 for!).  

EDIT: I also understand that Carly can do it, perhaps if you change it yourself another member locally with Carly might oblige?

Totally agree with your first point there - I still don't know what happened, what caused it and why it did what it did. I guess if continental deemed it a knock on affect from the previous issue, they could relay that to Autosure? Although I'm sure they wouldn't want to admit they didnt diagnose it correctly to start with.. Its a little bit hard too as the person I am dealing with at Continental is not actually a mechanic but a service consultant..

Interesting RE: battery. I was watching on YouTube a guy who has a similar vehicle (E60) - i think the channel was BMW Doctor and he mentioned it was beneficial that I purchase an ISTA-D setup.. I'm not too savy with car programming although I am knowledgeable in electronics (elec eng here). Would it be helpful to get a setup like that or shall I leave it to the professionals?

1 hour ago, Gaz said:

With Autosure or any mechanical warranty, you'll find the phrase 'one excess for each and every unrelated claim 

Hmmm yeah okay - I actually thought my excess was something like $600 but in this instance it was only $350.

Just for my understanding - do you think it’s each and every unrelated claim to the incident, or to every repair they did ie: first doing the wiring harness to then work out it wasn’t that and perhaps was say the alternator? Would it be my problem if it was diagnosed incorrectly? 

2 hours ago, F10er said:

If i were you i would get that looked at. These cars are very sensitive to voltage issues and it will more than likely cause you further issues if you just leave it. It probably just needs a new battery, but best to get it checked by testing the battery and doing an "energy diagnosis"

Good call - where’s the best place to buy a new battery for them from? Is there a way to test the voltage of the battery while it’s running using the iDrive system or would I need to get my multimeter out? Do you know what sort of voltage I should be expecting while it’s running vs when stationary?

Well it turns out yes it was the TPS wiring harness. All sorted now - although I’m surprised they never mentioned anything about the high battery drain. As I left the shop, that message came up. 

1 hour ago, F10er said:

This was quite a common issue with the N62 going back about 10 years or so from memory. I think there was actually a technical bulletin for it, which is possibly why they are replacing the connector. Might be able to google it?? Can't remember excactly, but it was something about the crimps on the pins, causing a poor connection at the throttle valve potentiometer. The DSC light probably came on as it uses the throttle valve to modulate the engine power in a DSC intervention i think.

hey thats interesting - I'll do a bit of a google and see what I can dig up. 

1 hour ago, HalfJobHarry said:

Interesting...what of the DSC fault code? 

The throttle pot positions can be easily seen with a scan tool, presumably they confirmed the failure rather than just going with the logged fault code? I'd imagine/hope this to be the case if they are recommending a replacement TPS + loom. I don't know the ins and outs of the 5 series but the TPS wiring is typically on one of the DME looms, so quite a few places to run that back to and things to plug into. 

It's interesting to me that you could have a DSC fault and have to pull over in limp mode and only have a TPS code logged in the DME. These kinds of events usually come with a truck load of logged faults...

(Autosure question..... is that excess per 'breakdown' or if you need additional things fixing as the problem is not cured will you need to pay additional excess?) 

I queried the DSC fault just now and got the reply of "No faults for DSC - once carrying out the repair cable replacement, we need to recheck for further issues". Sounds complicated and guess work to find the right place. 

I too found it strange - literally going 100km/h on the motorway, then it went to reduced power (80km/h max). Pulled off at the offramp to a set of traffic lights - as I applied brake, DSC failure came on and slowed it even more to 20km/h (admitedly, I was going up a bit of an incline - for those familiar with Auckland, the Point Chevalier hill coming up from the North Western city bound).

I am not entirely sure in regards to Autosure whether this is just for this particular fault or the entire repair if this doesn't fix it. Continental were actually the ones who told me Autosure were covering it.

Update

Continental came back to me saying that after testing, they found the throttle potentiometer faults stored, and requires the plug and loom replaced as first measure. Autosure are covering the cost (with me covering the excess of $350). They have the parts and it will be ready for collection tomorrow at lunchtime. 

48 minutes ago, HalfJobHarry said:

Never good! Did the limp mode clear when you turned it off and on? 

Typically a wheel speed sensor failure will cause a DSC code....but I'm not aware of it putting a vehicle into limp mode. 

This kind of reminds me of when I had an alternator failure while driving. In a 'basic vehicle' you'd get a battery light and it's fairly obvious. In my E46 modules started to throw error codes one after another and exactly like you, when I pressed the breaks the DSC fault came up.

Do let us know how you get on! 

 

 

Actually, come to think of it - you make an interesting point RE: alternator... I had a few days ago a warning come up - something about high drain of the battery? I've had that show up maybe 3 times since we went into Level 4 lock down in March.. Comes right after I drive it for a bit. Other than that, doesn't show up unless its been sitting for a few days without driving anywhere.. Perhaps it could be like you say - literally when i braked, the DSC fault came up.

8 minutes ago, aja540i said:

Throttle actuator? The M5 did something similar when one of its died, not sure if the V8 ones are a common fault or not but the V10 ones definitely are.

Yeah perhaps! I got the confirmation from Continental that my car got there and they'll check it out in the morning. Another friend of mine mentioned it could possibly be a wheel speed sensor. Im intrigued to find out - literally drove perfectly on the way to my office - 20km from home. Eitherway, hopefully its covered under Autosure (fingers crossed).

So was driving on the motorway heading to an important client meeting when suddenly I got the old limp mode engine malfunction. Managed to get off the motorway luckily. As I applied the brakes at the intersection, the DSC error also came up on the dash. Staggered up the hill of the road and pulled off to a side road. Got on the phone to Autosure who arranged to have it towed to the closest authorized euro mechanic - although I opted to pay the extra $2/km to have it towed to my current mechs (Continental Wairau). Will post back here once we know whats wrong with it.

4 hours ago, Olaf said:

Hi Jimmy, your service at Continental BMW should see you right for a while, was it inspection I or II?  

For feedback on the kind of things I've encountered with e60/N62 ownership, take a read through My new SS Commodore... in a sharp german suit ...it's a lengthy account of my ownership.  If you've time and patience to wade through it, you'll see how I worked my way to valve stem seals.  If it's not too late, do consider buying an Autosure MBI policy, you should be in a good position if it's just had a dealer service.

Hope that helps

 

Thanks for that @Olaf - will definitely have a read through. 

im not entirely sure which service it went through but they changed the oil and filter etc, and did quite a thorough check for bits and pieces. Turns out the oil level sensor will need to be changed. Sensor is saying there is too much oil in the tank, but the manual reading says it’s just right. Interestingly the part will cost me $400 or so. I did a quick search online of the job and it’s rather straightforward. Unfortunately I don’t have the tools nor space to DIY, so will take it in. 

something else that’s interesting is that I found contrary to popular belief, my service at Continental was cheaper than at any of the Indy’s. Perhaps I’ll get my work done by Indy’s and services done by Continental. 

I was smart enough (after hearing many a stories about BMW’s) to purchase an Autosure MBI policy - sure it added $2k onto the purchase price, but to know that most things that can go wrong (from what I’ve read) could cost in the thousands to repair, it was a no brainer!

On 7/19/2020 at 7:42 AM, NZ BMW said:

How many kms were on the car when the seals failed?

I had the 4.8 in my E70 and drove it from 70k to 120k without incident. Brakes were actually one of the biggest costs...

For what it’s worth I did 10k oil changes and tend to do the transmission fluid every 30-40k.

Only issue I had with the cooling system was the expansion tank developed a split which I consider to be part of all BMWs as disappointing as that is. 

It was at 93k when the seals failed. Once it got sorted, it’s all good now. 
I’ve just hit 10k and put it through a service at Continental. Only thing that they mentioned was my oil level sensor needs to be changed ($400 just for the part!?). 

11 minutes ago, TheManBearPig said:

wow totally different experience to what I had then,they f**ked around so much with me I ended up fixing most the sh*t myself 

Sounds awful. I have to say though, it did take a bit for them to sort it out. I reported my problem in December. It didn’t get fixed until June. The guy I bought it off didn’t work there anymore after lockdown, so they got the maintenance guy I think to look after it. He sent it in to get fixed, two weeks later didn’t hear anything, called up Autospot to find that he had left too and the young bloke I spoke to didn’t even know they had my car...... to add to it, the loan car I had; the wof expired a few days into me getting it. Putting that aside, they did honour the dealer warranty and sorted the issues out. The repair - no hitches. The lead up to the repair - less than desirable. 

Thanks for your warm welcome @Olaf & @TermiPeteNZ.

I’ve got her booked in for a service on Monday at Continental BMW. Any pointers on what I should be on the look out for? I’ve seen some posts on a) valve stem seals and b) something about coolant. 

On 6/30/2020 at 12:05 AM, Olaf said:

N62.  Not time bombs, as long as they're looked after.  

• Valve Stem Seals.  Yep, costly to do, though can be done without removing head.  5000-7500km oil & Filter changes are a good idea.
• Coolant tube.  Mitigate this with annual coolant flush and replacement.
• Trans.  Same as every other ZF 6HPyy-equipped vehicle.  Regular filter (pan), mechatronics sleeve. And proper oil.  Very clever trans, lots of money to fix if the f#ck-up fairy...

More later!

•  

Yes agree here with Olaf. I just had my valve stem seals done in my 550i - luckily still under the dealer warranty. Don't want to think about how much it would have cost - it was at the mechanics for around 2 weeks. Not to scare you off, they are an amazing car - definitely plenty of power. Good luck - and keep us in the loop with what you end up going for!

Jimmy

Hi Guys,

Newbie here to the wonderful world of BMW's. Purchased my first one in December - a slick looking 2009 E61 550i (which I have named Bindy - LOL yes, I name my cars). Not long after I bought it, it had to go through the dreaded valve stem seal replacement (which thankfully was covered under the dealer warranty). 

I've had the radio updated to NZ frequencies, and have tinted the windows to as legally dark they can go.

Main reason for purchasing the vehicle was for work; travelling around the country for events and concerts, so needed something that would perform well on the roads, have plenty of space for equipment/gear, and look the part for my corporate side of work.

I will continue to follow this forum for tips on maintenance and general care for this beast of a wagon!

- Jimmy

Ah yes like you, I too was struggling with the whole Bluetooth audio only working for calls rather than music. I managed to pick up a bluetooth receiver and plug it into the aux input and works primo.

Nice looking car mate - good score.

On 4/23/2020 at 8:42 PM, TheManBearPig said:

off topic but how did you find dealing with Autospot?

I actually bought my BMW off Autospot and the guy I dealt with was quite pleasant (Heath was his name). The dreaded valve stem seals needed to be replaced whilst it was still under dealer warranty and they got it all sorted without too many hitches thankfully.