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Deffed

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Posts posted by Deffed


  1. Gday mate, chers for feedback. Was thinking about just putting it back together and seeing what happens. Lots of things iv red,read, looked at say that the lever arm are a precision bit of kit,with the lateral movement and the scoring on the cam and rollers just wondering how precise they are,manufactur date is 05year 262day and there that kind of colour that says very hot. I need to look into the oil supply im pritty sure they in creased the size 1/4 inch or 6mm. The holes that squirt oil in it are tiny. 


  2. Heres a wee clip,first part is under side of valvetronic bridge cylinder 2&3 lever arms out,lots of literal movement on large bearing that one runs agains main cam also wear on cam,the tube thing at the top of shot is oil feed tiny wee holes that are ment to oil the cam lobes,second part is the head from m60b40 n62 grandad out of 93 e32 it has less ks on it than the n62 but every thing is just grunty,massive lobes,the flat plate above is the oil supply it pushes oil down the side of the studs in to bearing cap.blabla.

     


  3. 49 minutes ago, Lubed said:

    What is the fault with the intermediate levers/valvetronic?

    I brought it not running,report said no compression cylinder 3,further inspection broken intermediate lever arm. Recommendation complete engine replacement. I done some research found out from mid 04 till day 345 04 company that makes the arm ran a dodge batch. I was progressing on getting the components out and noticed 3 out of position,had to remove the bridge to see it had just slipped out,workshop mustn't checked properly. Futher inspection lever arms made after the dodge batch but are quite warn,some wear in cam possible oil starve at some point.


  4. 52 minutes ago, F10er said:

    Sounds about right for a dealership........bloody hopeless. Maybe ask to speak to the Parts Manager or a Master parts advisor. They would have more experience.........you would think/hope.

    The Puma number is in the photo below. Ask them to look that measure number up.

    Iv just got the bridge off the head that holds the cam,eccentric shaft and lever arms,the spring has slipped out of the guide on the lever arm,it crazy that part way through the spring completely leves the guide and expected to go back in the same spot,the springs are not retained in any way and the lever arm is only retained by the spring.

    20210824_171333.heic 20210824_170753.heic


  5. 1 hour ago, F10er said:

    You will have to speak to a parts guy at a dealership. I looked the levers up in ETK and it says to refer to a Puma measure for the correct levers. Only dealers have access to this.

    Thanks for you message,unfortunately my local bmw dealership team or at least the 2 people iv been dealing with had no idea what i was talking about so i had to go in and point the part out on cylinder head schematic drawing. 🤔😳


  6. Hello everyone,iv recently acquired a 650i with valvetronic issues namely intermediate lever arms. There 5 different versions 1-5 with very fine tolerances in lift and duration on each one. From what iv discovered, some are discontinued and there are some forms that say the 5 have been replaced with updated versions. If anyone can provide any updated information would greatly appreciated. 

    Regard Reno.👍


  7. Iv asked my local bmw dealer techs some pritty straight forward questions and they've ether said that there not sure,or that it wont work. Example, m54b30 i have 2 engins 98,04 had issues with o2 sensor, they have 2 different o2 sensors,different plug input,different diameter. 04 different 90mm diameter, asked would smaller one run the engine, the dude laught down the phone, said silly idea and no wont happen. So installed smaller o2 sensor, runs mint.


  8. Realy! If you have a crack between a valve,through water jacket into the cylinder you wont get a leak,it burn in the cylinder and come out as condesation from the exhaust,thats why it takes so long for results from refill,it burning the water....🧠

     


  9. Leak down test i think its call,you can buy the system for bout $80,also need a small compressor. Pressurize each cylinder through spark plug entry hole,then observation,air leak hiss from tale pipe exhust valve's, from throttle body,inlet valves,bubbles in expansion tank,cracked head,out of oil filer or dipstick bad ring.


  10. Ok fellow bmw people,electrical!. Washing the car,smell hot wireing, thought it was water blaster, went to start car,zero!.no lights nothing,oops pop the boot batteries warm. Had a nose round burnt earth wire in break light. Would this cause a complete electrical shut,that is my quistion.

    Cheers for any info.


  11. On 3/4/2019 at 1:43 PM, glen.riley.1990 said:

    Hey mate, sorry for the slow reply. i have moved away from using the N62 pump and now have a dry sump setup. when i was looking at N62 sump i had gotten to the point of either using the M60 sprocket modified to fit the shaft (as the N62 has a different design chain and the sprocket wont work with the M60 crank sprocket )or a ISO chain sprocket modified to fit the shaft with the same approximate diameter as the N62 sprocket.

     

    The N62 sprocket is smaller, so would result in more oil delivery per engine RPM than the M60 sprocket. I believe the N62 pump is a 2 stage design with an internal relief when a certain oil pressure is reached due to Vanos on the newer engine, which means you might get away with the M60 sprocket. you could always measure oil volume per revolution of the pump to figure out the approximate size of sprocket you need on the newer pump to match the delivery volume of the old pump.

    Hi there,i just your posts about oil pumps for your m60,posted in 2019. Was it successful?

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