Ooonst

That's pretty much bang on - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-fuel-injector-kit-13538616079kt = $4500 odd NZD

Where did you get your Index 12's from?

Learn something new every day!

Thanks for the advice! There are mixed messages about what sort of battery to stick in. I found this - https://www.autopadre.com/battery-size/bmw-335i which claims that an H6 was the battery it came with. The one I pulled out was an H6 but possible underspec'd at 63AH, 580CCA. I would have thought that AH is roughly how long you can run things and the CCA (Cold crank amps / ability to start the engine) would have been more important? I got the Varta E39 (AGM) which is H6 size but 70AH and 760CCA so an upgrade in terms of CCA (and AH). The previous battery never seemed to have a problem starting the car unless, on the odd occasion (twice?) it was heading towards flat. I measured the voltage on the old battery after having it out of the car for 3-4 days and it was coming up as 12.43v which is about 75% charge so that battery looks like it's fine but perhaps not really big enough. The new battery measures 12.52-12.63v at rest (95% charged) and I'm getting 14.22-14.28v when the Alternator is charging. On the DTC side of things, I find it odd that there are mostly none when the dash cluster is lit up! I would have thought that if a DTC is triggered then it's stored in memory until it's manually cleared? That's certainly the way my VAG car computers operate. Is it different for Bimmers? After driving around this morning and having the intermittent same 4 messages as above I had a couple of instances of the transmission warning light. At one point, the traffic lights went green, I tried to accelerate but pretty sure nothing happened. No rev's going to the engine and no movement / engagement of 1st gear from the car. 5 seconds later it was fine, driving normally. When I got back home I checked the DTC's again and had a long list. The first time I have seen most of these - 2F4E 2F4F (I've had this one several times before, recently and in isolation which is the Right Rear ABS sensor. I've previously had the same symptoms and had the Left Rear ABS sensor replaced so figure it's time to replace the other one now...) CD95 CD98 CD9C CDA1 CDA5 CDA8 CDAD CDB3 Looking at https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1990156 and https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1934018 - Both of these guys, their cars died completely. Thinking about grounding straps and DME relays might be next to check in parallel with sorting out the Rear right ABS sensor.

So I have been getting these ABS and related errors (DBC, FTM, Start assistance) intermittently for the last few days. I have had them in the past, usually on a road trip they will pop up once and hang about until the car is next restarted then disappear and not come back for weeks. They seem to be getting more frequent (or perhaps I'm just driving the car more frequently over summer holidays!?) and as well as these I have a Transmission light that has started showing up now and again. The transmission light is less frequent but more weird and doesn's seem to be related, as in it will show up at different times. I noted today when it was coming on whilst I was stationary with the engine running, the steering wheel seemed to be trying to recalibrate itself, moving small increments left and right but itself (active steering) and the error is mostly showing up when the car is stationary though my wife claimed it hit her whilst she was driving and that the car "shuddered"... Will come back to this one later. With the ABS lights, when I've had them in the past, as I had a mechanical breakdown Insurance policy that came with the car, I took the car to the local garage who diagnosed the problem as a rear wheel speed sensor. Assuming that this is the same cause but simply the other wheel, I've ordered a couple (1 for now and one spare) of BOSCH "0986594572" which are apparently a good fit for OE Part 34526870077 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partsearch?id=UV72-EUR-01-2009-E91N-BMW-335i&mg=&q=34+52+6+870+077. There appear to be broadly 3 classes of these sensors, the cheap-as-chips Chinese ones that can be had for as little as $18 AUD which I gather are to be avoided, the middle of the road ones from Bosch or ATE for about $70-80 each and the OEM ones which seem to run about $200. I've gone for the "one up from the bottom" on the wine list. Anyone have thoughts on the relative merits of each type of ABS sensor? I've also been having electrical issues for some time with my battery progressively dying on me due to all manor of additional electrical crap that has been tacked onto the car (android auto/carplay retrofit, Dash cam hardwired). I purchased a Varta E39 70aH AGM replacement for $500 and fitted and coded this myself yesterday (following the PDF instructions from https://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11379622&postcount=48). I was hoping that this might be the remedy for all of the above and was smugly driving around yesterday thinking exactly that until... all the errors came back today. Corelation is not necessarily causation! I'll have a go at swapping out the ABS sensor when they arrive and report back.

I literally discovered the same one in mine 2 days back and was also wondering...

Insane build. I'm not sure I could get this much work done on mine in 2 lifetimes.

Great thread! Very impressive build! Sorry to resurface your bad memories but I just wanted to say I've had 3 similar experiences recently. One of my cars got hit on the rear drivers quarter a few months back and I booked it in for the panel beaters (3 month wait list... ) Finally got it in there, got the work done under insurance ($400 excess, about $2k worth of work?) and had it parked on the street all of 2 days - Friday to Sunday before some other ass hat hit me in EXACTLY THE SAME PLACE! I won't be getting it fixed again until I have a garage. After this experience I bought a dash cam and hard wired it into my 335i for security duties, sure enough, someone scraped the front drivers quarter a couple of weeks back... I have accumulated quite a bit of damage on this part of the car now (someone also opened like a van door over the top of the quarter/hood causing a massive scratch, clear coat is blistering - black car parked in the direct sun...) so it really needs to get into the panel beaters! I've been through a load of the videos and still not able to locate any solid evidence of when that scratch might have occurred. Again, reluctant to get this one fixed until I have a safe place to park because where I live is clearly a massive liability for these sorts of parked prangs and it seems that no one leaves notes anymore... 🤬

Nice to know about spareto... I wonder what else I can get from them!

https://gensportunited.com/need-colder-spark-plugs/ in case anyone want's to get into the pros and cons.

I just picked up 6 of these - https://jbhauto.co.nz/products/ngk-laser-iridium-iridium-spark-plugs-silzkbr8d8s-97506. Seems like a bargain at $30 vs $87 each at Repco. Too good to be true? Anyone got any experience buying from JBH Auto before? Website seems a little light on details... (P/N = SILZKBR8D8S 97506)

Initially I went for an off to the passenger side of the rear mirror mount and left it over night on a test run but the wide angle of the lens actually picked up some of the mirror mount! So I simply pealed off the weird clear antistatic thing you attach the GPS mount to and whacked it right square in the middle beneath the rear vision mirror. Yes, I routed the cable off to the left and down the A-pillar and then into the fuses behind the glove box. The hardwire kit seems to drain quite a bit of battery even when I leave it in G-Sensor (as opposed to Motion detection) mode so am constantly coming back to the car complaining that the battery is getting near flat. On the plus side the car seems very capable of managing it's own electrics to prevent the battery going totally flat so that hasn't happened to me,... yet. I even suspect (but have not yet proven...) that the GPS Mount that you slip the camera into is draining battery without the camera docked into it so have now started unplugging the USB cable from the mount when not in use to see if that makes a difference. Went for a nice cruise out to Wainui beach yesterday so was thinking the battery would get a good charge. Then pissed about cleaning the upholstery with the radio going and no motor running for an hour or so and proceeded to run it nearly flat again. Oh well - Good excuse to take it for another long drive I guess?!

Necro posting - FCP do the Pierburg and another Aluminium unit (Nissens) as well now - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-water-pump-replacement-kit-11515a05704kt3

OOo, just found this as well. https://www.gdwv.co.nz/vehicle/2006-BMW-323I/1471

What in the hell is this hot mess ? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/335i/listing/3965499242 ??!

Thought I would post this up in case it helps anyone else out there. I bought a Dash cam and wanted to hardwire it into my '09 E91 and found a lot of conflicting information out there. I was looking at the Fuse layout behind the glove box. Easy enough to access once you remove the 2 screws either side on the plastic covering plate. One YouTube video encouraged me to remove some plastic pin to drop the glovebox lid/door down a little. Don't do this. I wasted 5 minutes trying to reinsert the little plastic pin to the pneumatics that drop the lid/door and did not gain any additional access when I had it out. I think there are 2-3 different types of Fuse layout for these cars, I think the first 1-2(?) types of layout are mostly found on the earlier models and mine was a Type 2, post-2008. I used this page - https://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html as a reference but some of the info in there seemed a bit off. The Type 2 diagram half way down appears to match my layout and fuses pretty closely. I was looking for a 5Amp feed when ignition was off for the Dash cam. A lot of posts out there claim that Fuse 81 and 83 are good candidates for always-on power but no comment as to how many Amps they are. I thought this information a bit suspect as Fuse 81 and 83 on my board appear to be pretty high Amps 30-40Amp sockets. Also a lot of people complaining that the "always-on" fuses that they located will function for 1-2 hours then power down afterwards. This post - https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125203 and specifically this post - https://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11060092&postcount=21 was the key. (TL:DR) Fuse 2 turned out to be the one!! Dash cam all wired up to this bad boy and worked like a charm on motion sensor mode all night long. The only problem now seems to be that the cam looks like it melted sitting in there all day in the summer sun... (See pic)

Anyone know/ could recommend where I can get a Dyno done in Wellington? I found these guys https://www.llamaengineering.co.nz/index.php/dyno-bay/ but its not rolling road. Also https://www.prestigetuning.co.nz/ looks to be $190 a run which seems a little steep. They might be the best option?? https://xtremetuning.co.nz/ - Details are sparse. They "don't like diagrams" which is an immediate turn-off. Cheers!

Resurrecting this thread. What does everyone think of a DIY, mobile phone GPS tracker? I was thinking about hardwiring a mobile charger and then stashing the phone somewhere in the car not too visible but where it can still get a bit of GPS signal. This app looks like it would foot the bill as well - https://apkpure.com/car-alarm/appus.pro.caralarm though I haven't managed to locate it or anything similar on the official Google Play store just yet... I'm also considering Dash Cam's for parking security but they might be largely pointless if someone get's into the car, they could remove them or trash them and the majority of them seem to just write to local SD Cards and not direct to Cloud storage or anything too fancy (that sort of feature would require more battery juice?)

Hey, thanks very much guys!! Much appreciated. There were a few other things that turned me off, some bits not clicked in where they should have been in the engine bay and some serious mould on one of the rear passenger seatbelt! I've done a reasonable amount of reading up but still fairly new to all of this. I heard that the 2009/2010(pre N55) ones might be slightly better in terms of reliability but still one of the most unreliable cars in it's class?! I'm asking questions about the water pump/thermostat, and the HPFP, Also hear that the Injectors can be pretty pricey to replace. I'd plan to upgrade the HPFP anyway so no biggy if that one leaves me on the side of the road (depends where I'm at I guess!?) Going to look at another one this afternoon...

I've been through 3 OBD connectors - my good old USB cable which I've used on multiple (99-2004) VAG cars but seems to struggle on some controllers/protocols with newer cars. I recently bought a super cheap ($15) Bluetooth one off of Trademe which was mostly garbage despite it seeming to pass a bunch of compatibility tests. And the last one I got was the Vgate iCar v2 Wireless (I wanted Bluetooth but got confused ordering the "blue" coloured one by accident...) and this set me back about $65 including shipping off of Amazon. I've used it on a couple of cars (06 VW Passat and 06 BMW 335i) so far and seems pretty good. Using it with the "Car Scanner" app for Android which seems to be the best one I've found so far.

Went for a second look at this one https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/335i/listing/3705021862 and walked away as I'm thinking it might have the wastegate rattle... OBD2 Scan was clean, has a needs service flag. If anyone else in Wellington end's up going to have a look, please let me know if you think it has the wastegate rattle? Sounds like a sowing machine on the down rev. Now this thread probably needs to move to the Trade me section....

Hi Guys, Noob to the forums. Gidday!! I'm looking to buy an '06 N54 335i and took it for a test drive today. All seemed pretty straight aside from I noted a weird feeling in both the Steering and brake pedal seemed to be picking up vibrations from the Windscreen wipers!? The guy said that he had one of the wiper motors replaced recently but wondering if this makes any sense to any of you and if this could indicate a more serious problem? The other thing I noted was that there appeared to be a very small amount of oil on some metal tray near the top left of the engine just below where the injectors are maybe?? I'm pretty sure I read in another forum or website somewhere this is indicative of some slightly serious problem but can't locate that original post. Anyway, Greetings and I'm sure to be posting a bit more once I obtain my 335 in whatever shape it ends up being... Whoops, probably should have posted this one to "Quick Questions"...