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Deano

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Posts posted by Deano


  1. My advice is start with a good M20B25. Best bang for buck is 2.8L stroker. Its straight forward to build and its on wiki but more difficult to extract the maximum power without correct tuning. You can throw it all together with stock cam and ECU exhaust etc and you will have a very nice engine with good low power but kinda flat in the higher rpms but still faster than stock BUT THE TORQUE!

    I can't sleep and we are having aftershocks :o


  2. Hey guys.

    Recently picked up a heap of spares for my old e30. Been a while since ive touched it as ive been trying to sort my car for the drift series this year but im about to get back into it.

    Parts i picked up are:

    -b23 block with perfect condition crank

    -731 head in perfect condition

    -apparently a mild cam

    -2 x wiring looms with ecu's (l-jet unfortunatly)

    -2 getrag 240 boxes

    -individual throttle bodies that just need the manifold welded up and a few holes drilled

    -tail shaft

    -complete motor (unsure of what motor it is)

    Now i got told the block was a 2.7 stroker however upon getting it home and measuring i realised its a standard b23 crank. It has no marks or anything on the bearing journals so im thinking about just putting this in place of my b20 crank and not changing a thing for the moment. Would this see any more than the normal 139hp the L-jet b23 makes?

    I pulled the head off the other motor the other day and its seized big time. Bore is completely rusted however it is still full of oil so im hoping the crank is ok however i havnt had a chance to seperate the box off the back and pull the motor down completely.

    The bore in the motor is the standard b20/23 bore however the stroke is measuring 81mm in its current seized position with 4 pistons at 81mm and 2 with 15mm before they get to the top of the block. Could this be a bigger crank than a 2.7L at all? Or is it likely just to have snapped rods and be rubbish? haha


  3. Koni adjustables for the rear and have the spring platform lowered 40mm and shock shaft cut the same. You can run the standard springs and set the shocks to med damping rate. Slot the trailing arm mounting points if your are concerned with the squat camber. This is the best set up I have tried and the E21 rear is an issue. You can buy all urethane bushes from the US or pour your own. The rear subframe carrier is soft as and with some hard Urethane poured in there makes quite a bit of difference.

    Shift the battery to the boot, make or buy a rear strut brace and battery holder..good to get as much weight back there as poss.

    The front is 323i struts as these are 45mm from memory and I run heavy duty KYB inserts with compressed King springs and this works well. 323i 23.5mm sway bar - there are 2 types of sway bar that match two types of control arms early and late. You can weld in bracing between the chasis rails at the front to stiffen it and a decent strut brace will help.

    I cast Urethane bushes for the control arms where the sway bar fits through and I purchased the sway bar bushes from Stocks.

    A decent set of 15 inch rims with correct offset (quite hard to find) and I have Kuhmo 205 50s. Probably want a power rack with the wider rubber ( rare as but they are around).

    Brakes..volvo 1980s 740 4 pots fit pretty easily and E30 rear calipers and discs are nearly bolt on.

    Handles and brakes good, sits about 50mm lower than stock, no rattles and best of all no shimmy at around 100!

    Good luck and get ready to spend some dosh and search the net for bits

    • Like 1

  4. I'm on the lookout for a complete LJet conversion for the racecar. Not 100% sure if I'm going to go ahead yet but it's looking likely.

    I would need all the parts that are involved, I don't know if this includes coolant hoses or a different thermostat housing or anything??

    Conversions not complete with wanky slide valve will not be considered. Any advice on how to go about the conversion is appreciated.

    Cheers

    Probably got the lot except the engine loom

  5. Okay, so after going out and actually looking, I do have the correct AFM.

    However, it actually looks like it's been pre-f**ked with before I tried it, so I'm still keen for another one.

    0280 202 082

    1286615.9

    I have a spare untampered with $50..4 pin 082 for 1.3 version

  6. This one has to go also.

    Very tidy and original 323i. 240000ks, 5 speed. Reg on hold, will put WOF and rego on.

    Engine runs well, no smoke but has piston slap from cold. Mint as 5 speed from 1982 E21 I wrecked a while back. Interior is nearly perfect. Small amount of rust in the usual spots but this would have to be one of the tidiest original E21s around. Some bog in the rear guard has fallen out and there are a few other body areas needing a tidy up.

    Good rubber and overall the paint is very good and original.

    Viewing a must!

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