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Deano

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Posts posted by Deano


  1. Hi,

    I recently had a manual conversion done on my E36 323i and now I'm sitting on approx 3200rpm at 100kph.

    While the quick acceleration is awesome (really really awesome), the car isn't for racing and I'd like to bring the revs down to something that is a bit more economical on the petrol.

    Just looking for an open diff (as I'm a bit poor after the conversion) and something that will go straight into my car with no modifications.

    From what I've read online, the auto diff is a 3.64 (for the Jap imports at least) and the factory manual 323i had a 2.93. I want to compromise somewhere in between (ie good acceleration and about 2400rpm at 100kph), so I reckon something in the low 3's would be perfect.

    Car is a 1996 E36 323i Coupe (pre-facelift)

    Cheers

    I have a 3.45:1 from a NZ new 320i manual $120

    Cheers


  2. Anyone have any for cheap in Wellington?

    Don't mind what color just as long as it isn't blue :P and there are no rips or stains.

    Been quoted $100 from a wrecker which is frankly ridiculous when it is $10 at pick a part.

    Need some asap.

    Cheers, Nathan

    Have you ever pulled the carpet out? You would hope its only $10 after doing that at pick a part. $100 is cheap if its good.

  3. Up for sale renovators dream 1968 1600-2 rolling bare shell..including all the glass and rubbers. A lot of the rust work to the shell completed. Pretty good bonnet quite straight, doors repairable, good boot. Could sell seperate panels, but rather sell the complete shell. Could make an awesome race car project or put back on the road

    Have most of the car's parts which can be negotiated.

    I have work to do on the house so its got to go =(

    Could deliver within the South Island for the price of petrol.

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=319298465

    $400

    post-614-1285099743.jpg


  4. 1983 320i E30 coupe rolling shell

    straight and very tidy

    has 3 small areas of non structural rust

    manual rack, 3.45 diff

    The motor - M20B20 and the factory ZF manual 5 speed have been removed.

    Good base for a project M52 repower or 2.8L M20, turbo Nissan

    Rego has expired but due to the age 37 it may be cheaper to re-vin

    $650

    post-614-1284492187.jpg

    post-614-1284492222.jpg

    post-614-1284492142.jpg


  5. NZ new, 162ks, factory manual, vanos. Sharp looking car. Drives well but needs tidy up inside.

    Couple of running issues, poss problem with ECU but motor and box great. Have no time to sort out and tidy up and its too good to wreck. Good rubber all round, paint pretty good nice in Alpine White, rear spolier etc. Reg on hold, can put WOF on no probs. No cat or emission gear on it and makes good power for a 2L.

    Sold the motor so now all parts up for sale. The gearbox is absolutely perfect and the conversion kit comes with everything including freight $1250

    bump

  6. NZ new, 162ks, factory manual, vanos. Sharp looking car. Drives well but needs tidy up inside.

    Couple of running issues, poss problem with ECU but motor and box great. Have no time to sort out and tidy up and its too good to wreck. Good rubber all round, paint pretty good nice in Alpine White, rear spolier etc. Reg on hold, can put WOF on no probs. No cat or emission gear on it and makes good power for a 2L.

    Sold the motor so now all parts up for sale. The gearbox is absolutely perfect and the conversion kit comes with everything including freight $1250


  7. So somehow the intake rocker arm on cylinder 1 has been damaged and a part has chipped off it. This has meant that whilst it can still hold the eccentric and a bolt at the moment, I hold little hope for it being anything more than an emergency fix.

    I dont have the time (or most likely the skills) to fix it. How much should I expect to pay to get this sorted? I fear I am out of pocket big time with this one.

    You can do it with the head in place. The hardest part is getting the rocker shafts to slide out. If you are in Chch I can do it for you...

  8. Hey there

    I am making my e30 325i manual, this is what i have sorted

    g260 box

    Stage3 Clutch kit (thanks RDS)

    Pedal Box (thanks tastic)

    Masted and slave

    Drive shaft (thanks tastic)

    what i need is

    That rubber dohnut thats between the gear box and the driveshaft(i got one from auto stop before but they have no more)

    Flywheel

    the gearbox fork that slave cyliner push to move the clutch(lost mine when transporting CAN NOT FU&^ING BELIEVE THAT)

    Im pretty sure that all i need, if theres anything that im missing there for my conversion just say and if i need it ill buy it from you

    Thanks GARETH

    I can do E30 or E21 M20 flywheel. Possibly have a clutch fork. PM me if you are keen

  9. Firstly its a 09/92 NZ new 320i vanos factory manual. No CAT or emission control.

    Its non-EWS and runs 5wk9 002 ECU MS40.1

    Can the fault codes be read from the diagnostic connector? A friends "Peak" reader didn't work but ok on his 94 850i and another firm in Chch said the codes cannot be read.

    Problem is poor acceleration (leaning out i think)when warm. Gradual opening of the throttle (less air) and the car performs near normal. Open the throttle, lots of induction noise, sometimes backfire in the airbox and no power.

    Perfect from dead cold, and if I plug another temp sensor to trick the ECU to thinking its cold when warm it runs good.

    Idles perfect, warm or cold. Checked and rechecked for vacuum leaks.

    So I'm thinking it runs good on the fixed fuel map for cold, when its warm its looking for inputs from the sensors and its not getting one and not giving enough gas. The only thing I haven't tried is a new ECU and MAF. The MAF had been replaced by the previous owner, is the correct one and compared to another 320 when I disconnected the MAF it ran way better than mine so probably not the MAF. I reckon on the ECU. Its been repaired previous due to moisture but the previous owner assured after that it ran good. I have has a hard time trying to find an ECU to try.

    Any ideas.

    Should be able to have the fault codes read I would have thought.

    Also not sure what this (on the right) plugged into..Cable tied to the O2 harness - it looks as though it was plugged into something as its nice and clean but cannot trace any wires to the ECU plug and cant find the colours on the wiring diagram.

    Thanks

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