E30-323ti

There is a certain X factor to doing the stroker build I guess that is why quite a few people in the states do it (and it's cheap). But at the end of the day you still have a motor that was designed in the '70s and not built to be a high Hp engine. In leiu of a toyota soarer motor I would go the M50, you have technology on your side there, at least when you put it in you know you have 200hp. Have you added an aftermarket ECU into the costs as you will need one to make the most of the stroker, as the old dumbass L-jet can be tricked to work it still won't be ideal (rich down low then leans out up top etc...). go the M50 my 2c

I think it would make the pedal too firm on a stock setup. The stock MC is only 20.64mm on the E30, compared to the 25.4mm of the E32, that is 1.5x the cross sectional area thus 1.5x the effort required. My brakes will be for sale in the new year to make way for phase 2 of the conversion, so keep that in mind (you just need the E32 MC and +16" wheels)

For the discs, pads machining work was about $700. The master was $380 not from BMW (they wanted over $800). Well all you E30 owners you know what it was like before, all I can say is the new brakes make it feel like the stock ones are made of wood!!

Now last of all, connect up all the brake lines to the MC. Fill with brake fluid and bleed the brakes as per normal, it may take a while as the MC is empty, you can bench bleed the MC by filling the reservior with fluid and pumping it a few times before you install it, be careful because it is very easy to get brake fluid everywhere and it loves to strip paint. Finally, you may need to adjust the brake push rod behind the glove box if the pedal has too much free play, I didn't need to.

Install the new MC with the reservior attached. You will need to bend the piece of solid line you bought and create a loop from the MC outlet to the tee piece, I put the tee under the end of the MC and bent the pipe to suit.

You also need a tee piece and small length of solid brake line if your E30 doesn't have ABS, as the E32 MC has only 1 outlet for the front brakes but the stock MC has 2.

Next, put the reservior onto the new MC by pushing it in. Don't forget to transfer the rubber seal from the back of the old MC to the new MC (or buy a new one if needed).

Remove the fuild reservior from the old MC, by pulling it out.

Disconnect brake lines and remove master cylinder. New master cylinder being test fitted. Like a glove.

Undo nuts that hold Master Cylinder to the brake booster and loosen the brake nuts.

Shinny new 25mm master cylinder.

I use a slimline 14" electric fan. The toyota engine came complete with all sensor loom, ecu etc... Just plug it in give it power and away I go. I still have ALOT of cleaning up to do, lots of wiring I don't need etc... Hopefully getting the certifier down on wednesday. I'm only going to have third party insurance which shouldn't be too much, If I crash it and it my own fault I'll just have to bit the bullet. For fire and theft I will have to get it valued. I blew up the tacho on saturday, bit of a bugger, I turn the adjustment POT to far, o'well, get it fixed I guess.

Custom.

Picked up my 25mm E32 750iL master cylinder this afternoon. Installing over the weekend. I'll post some pics on monday. Have a good weekend all.

The 3.2l ones may have?? You could get a Quaife, only $1900+GST, ouch. Andrew: If you are sticking a M50 in it and eventually a later model G/box you may find a taller diff (or your stock one) may be good as some of the later boxes have a 1:1 5th, thats why they have diff ratios like 3.25:1 etc...

The seats will prolly be for sale soon. I've got a set of EVO I recaro's to go in it. I've also got the original gear knob too somewhere I think it is a Mtech one that goes with the steering wheel (steering wheel is rather shagged though so hello MR.Momo Corse)

mmmm, momo anatomico (long)

As far as I know they are Clutch type LSD's. Later model 3 series (M3's, Z3 etc..) have TORSEN type LSD's.

CLiK WuRM, I don't think the small case to big case internals are interchangeable. You can increase the lock-up of a stock LSD, you need to pull it all apart and add extra shims to increase the preload on the clutch plates, best left to the pro's I'd say. I'll be looking for a 3.73:1 LSD in the near future, the 3.46 is a little tall with the toyota G/box, 70 1st, 125 2nd, 180 3rd, 230 4th, 300 5th. You wouldn't want to get carried away overtaking with gears like those.

If you want a 3.7:1 you'll need the ring and pinnion from an auto E36 325i, and a LSD centre from a E36 325/8is (dunno if the autos came with a LSD). What ratio do you have at the mo Andrew?? My 323i has a 3.46:1 I think!?!?

The Blue M3 you posted CLiK WuRM is stunning. I love those BBS wheels. Does it have a S38 or S50 in it??

The question is, Can we get any of these in NZ?? If so, from who?? I think a Rieger GTS might cover my IC?? The eurostye E36 M3 looks like it might too??

Picking up the brake hoses this arvo, then a few test drives and a visit from the certifier early next week, fingers crossed. How much did you get your M50 for andrew?? Did you get the loom ecu etc... Did your 320 have motronic ECU or the older L-jetronic?? Mine is a L-Jet model so it would need a bit more fiddling to wire in the M50 I believe, not that the soarer engine plugged in either My old GB wasn't suitable for any further use if you catch my drift (it was F&*ked). Have you got any pix of it??

Agreed, if only you didn't need to sell vital organs.

I don't know about that andrew, A Euro S50/S52 powered E30 would be neat as would a E30 M3. But yeah anything less is a compromise in Hp to keep it BMW and costs $$$ to much. It is reasonably firm, I think it needs a stiffer rear sway bar though?!?! I am looking to convert to E36 suspension in the near future so keep an eye on the "For Sale" section as my Koni's, Jamexs, big brakes and wheels will be in there.