gmccormack

Im buying a complete arm with ball joints in it, will i still need the splitter? otherwise ill pay the $60 and get it done. Cheers

If you have someone willing to do the job for $60 get them to do it. I had a stubborn outer ball joint that refused to come out, it then broke the splitter then the ball joint fell apart but the inner part of the joint was still jambed in the strut. I had to remove the whole strut from the car and have the broken stud pressed out by an engineer. I wasted maybe 5 or 6 hours and broke a $40 splitter. $60=getting off easy.

$129 sound dear. The last pump I bought for a M40 from a BMW dealer was under $100. You will need a 32mm spanner to get the fan off (left hand thread)

Removing the water pump in a M40 doesn't upset the belt tension as it does in a M20, so I would leave it well alone unless it's time to replace it anyway.

Just to be clear, Andy do you still want the diff?? It's just I leave for my Xmas holidays on Thursday, so please let my know what is going on before then or it will have to wait until the new year.

Not too hard. The only special tools you will need are a ball joint splitter and a 22mm socket. Neither are that special but if you haven't needed one before you probably won't have the ball joint splitter and if you only have a basic socket set, chances are it won't go up to 22mm.

A bit of dish washing liquid is handy too, use it to help ease the rubber "tennis racket" bush off the end of the arm.

That's fine, I'll PM you with the details.

Anyone out there want a diff for their E30 race car. Small case, 4.1:1 ratio, done 200000+ ks. $80 ono

is there anyone in south auckland that i can borrow one from? please

I use a piece cut from an old allen key put into a socket. You are welcome to use it. I'm in Papakura. Phone Graeme 299 7942 or 021 136 7007

Do you need any wiring to replace the fire damaged stuff?? I have all the dash wiring for a E30 that I am about to throw out, you can have it if it's of any use to you.

Don't mess around with second hand parts, brand new arms only cost around $150 and come with both inner and outer ball joints

1800cc. Can be heard running. Complete with all wiring, ECU, alternator, AFM etc. $400.ono

One other question im still using the 4 cylinder gauge cluster in turn the rev counter is way out, does anyone know where i can read up how to rewire or whatever has to be done for it to work with the timing of the 6 cylinder motor.

Change the 4 cylinder coding plug for a 6 cylinder one. It is the white plastic block in the front of the instrument cluster

If you buy a second hand cluster you will probably find the batteries in it are still all good anyway.

Ni-Cads have a finite lifespan, if you fit a second hand cluster or S.I. board the Ni-Cads in it are probably on their last legs too, fit new ones during the swap over and save yourself the hassle of having to pull the cluster out again.

what type of batteries do i need {genuine bmw ones } is there a particular name for the batteries

or is it related to another problem that causes this,

any help appreciated ,

Any AA Ni-Cads will do, the brand doesn't matter. Often replacing them will fix a multitude of instrument related problems, but sometimes the circuit board they are attached to will have to be replaced as well. I have plenty of spare S.I. boards if it turns out that you need one.

People that ask for a "Buy Now" on a "No Reserve" auction.

195/65/14 is 609mm diameter

205/50/15 is 586mm diameter

so you'd be going 3.8% slower.

I get 167.49196km/h @6000rpm for a 609mm diameter tyre and 161.16788km/h @6000rpm for a 586mm diameter tyre, if both are using a 4.11 diff.

How about 205/50/15's then?

I don't have a 205/50/15 in my garage, can you measure one of yours. Post the diameter on the thread and i'll calculate the new speed.

That means 168 kph just past the kink on the back straight in my 318 at puke?

Yes, assuming 195/65/r14 tyres and a 4.11 diff, you will hit 167.65839km/h at the a 6000rpm rev limit.

What makes you think the speedo is out??? With the engine sitting dead on 2000rpm in forth gear what speed is it indicating??

4.11 diff @2000rpm = 56km/h

3.64 diff @2000rpm = 63km/h

3.46 diff @2000rpm = 66km/h

3.45 diff @2000rpm = 67km/h

Don't waste your time looking for a second hand one, they are always broken from overtightening. Get a new one from a dealer and fit an O ring around the lip on your reservoir first to stop the lid bottoming out and breaking.

Was the car originally fitted with rear discs or was it a drum to disc conversion??

can a blown head gasket actually stop a car from starting??

having a blown head gasket whats the worst case senario ?

some one care to expand, so i can get started and get the right parts

any help would be awsome

Yes, a blow head gasket can stop the car from starting, but usually only in extreme cases. If enough water makes its way into the cylinders it can foul the plugs causing a misfire/hard starting/no starting.

Worst case senario; The head gasket is not the problem and instead the head is cracked and only good for scrap, along with the piston rings and the cars cooling system. If things have gotten really bad the over heating may have caused a ring to break and scoured the bores too.

Why ?

Because you can buy a good Vectra for less than the repair.

If you push a 2.5L engine out to 2.7L you have only created a 8% increase in capacity, assuming no other mods and realising HP per cc drops as capacity increases then some of the 2.7 conversion claims seam pretty unrealistic. An extra 200cc just aren't going to make another 40-50hp

M10 318 auto = 3.9:1

M40 318 auto = 4.45:1

As far as symptoms go.... I bought a 320i with a blown head gasket, was told the head had been tested and was Ok. Put it all back together and it fills the radiator back up with engine oil. So.... I have an m20b25 sitting in the workshop looking for a car and im guessing its going to be cheaper buying an ecu to put the 2.5l in the car instead of buying another head for the 2.0l.

As far as certifying goes.... who cares who's going to know?? apart from you guys. heh.

Alternatively I do have the entire wiring loom from the m20b25 running motronic 1.3 and all the bits and bobs needed to run it, but i think thats too much of a head ache to run the loom through, link all the warnings up and make it look purty.. If i stay with the loom thats in the car then one would be none the wiser.

The Pre facelift 325 (motronic 1.1) use a engine bay wiring loom that is unique. An early 325 ECU cannot run an engine via any other loom. The early 325s' use two hall effect sensors mounted in gearbox bell housing, the 320 gearbox will not have fittings for those sensors nor will the 320 loom have the plugs for them.