gmccormack

mine are slow..is it the motor worn out?

More likely that the mechanisim is close to seizing. The motors don't wear out as such, they tend to burn out and stop dead because they are being overloaded. Take everything apart, clean and relube and they will work as good as new.

The dissy on the 325 motor will clash with the PreFL hose arrangement. The easiest option is to use a 325 radiator

Why don't you swap lock barrells from side to side??. The passengers side lock has probably never been used.

I had a similar problem with my old 323. After 300000+kms, wear in the throttle body shaft/bushes had caused an air leak.

Also, does the rod on the start assist diaphram retract once the engine is running?? It should be pulled out of the way by high manifold vacuum, but if it is leaking or its vacuum hose is leaking or disconnected it will keep the throttle plate from closing properly.

The angle of the spring, that is to say the spacing between the coils makes a huge difference to the spring rate, you will note how progressive rate springs are wound with varying distances between the coils. The more tightly spaced part of the coil compresses more readily than the more open part of the coil. Many lowered springs are made with a section of very closely wound coils that compress completely with only the static load of the car placed apon them, they are only there to provide adequate free height to the spring so that it remains captive during suspension extension.

Once I had a set of lowered "King" springs in a wreck that were taller (free height, that is) than the factory springs, so tall in fact that I had to resort to using spring compressors to get them out, unlike the factory springs that could be removed without compressing

Even if you manage to restore the temper in the spring steel, the suspension will have effectively been softened by virtue of the geometric change in the spring. If you can visualise the coils in the spring will be lying more horizontally than they were when the spring was at it's stock length so the weight of the car will have an easier time squashing the spring

Sounds like the heater water valve is stuck or the heater temp control switch has failed, both are common problems.

I pulled my wrecked Auto transmission out of my 89 E30 318i last night and there was a plug attached to the back of the geabox assuming this is an electronic speedo running from the box?

I believe the plug you are refering to is the connection from the speedo that signals the transmission to lock the torque converter at 85k's.

The early transmissions don't have the locking torque converter

Also, the M52 is far more "bolt in" than the M30 which requires custom mounts, maybe custom driveshaft as well. Theres a member in chch who has some of the bits needed for the OBD1 conversion and maybe oilpan if that hasn't sold.

Actually the M30 doesn't require any fabrication at all. All the parts to fit an M30 can be bought "off the shelf" as it were, it's the high price of the new parts that means most people doing the conversion make there own parts

Not a factory one then. It WAS a factory option - the genuine BMW ones fit in a stock slot.

It was a factory option alright, it is longer than the regular sunroof requiring a completey new roof panel to be fitted to the body during manufacture of the shell.

I had a factory moonroof in a wreck I once had. I couldn't give it away. They do not fit into the standard metal sunroof hole and cars fitted with them don't use the normal roof lining either.

Not in the back doors.

Even the back doors on the early cars.

Converting to power windows is not pratical, the glass is different and on some cars so are the doors

It could be a bad air flow sensor or at least a bad connection to it. I don't know if the E39 uses this particular protocol but some EFI systems allow the fuel pump to run while the starter is cranking them once the engine has started the ECU looks for a signal from the airflow meter. If after 3 seconds it doesn't get a good signal from the air flow sensor it shuts the fuel pump down again.

I had the same problem with a brake wear indicator, sometimes giving the dash a good thump would make it go away for a while but I had to swap out the instrument cluster to get rid of the problem. BTW Gus, was that you I saw on TV this morning??

yeah for everything left on it.

PM sent.

what do you want for the lot?

"the lot" meaning the whole car as it sits there less the auto trans??

does it have bottlecaps with warrantable rubber ?

Yes , bottle caps with OK tyres but one tyre was ruined by the accident.

Do you know what diff it has? If it is a 4.1-1 how much?

Sorry, It's a 4.45:1

Uncracked dash?

Yeah right.

about $180 sounds about right

Yeah, I over paid again.

That will buff right out....

I have a 89 318 coupe that has been rolled, I only bought it for the trans so everything else is for sale. It has power steering, disk brake rear, tail lights, episoidal head lights (not simlies sorry) external fuel pump, M40 (240000km) Open to offers .

Difference is the disc/drum t/a's

The disc'd t/a's are offset for a 8 bolt diff and the drum brake ones are offset for a 6 bolt.

Are you sure about that?? As there are rear disc cars that have small case diffs, ie. higher spec 316/318 yet their arms interchange with a 325 which all have medium case diffs

There are no L-jet 325s'. All 325 are Motronic, but they are not all the same. The ECU from a 85 through to mid 87 will not interchange with the later (late 87 on) ECU.

Most five stud conversions use E36 parts not E34. For example the rear end from a E36Ti will bolt in to a E30. Hardly and E34 parts are interchangable with a E30, they have more parts in common with E28s'