gmccormack

My Rx7 had a similar problem. It always started fine from cold but not when warm. The cause was chronic flooding from dirty injectors. Build up in the injectors stopped them from shutting off completely, raw fuel would seep past them into the intake while the engine was stopped so the engine was always flooded when you came to restart it. (given enough time the residual fuel pressure would drop and the fuel would evaporate, so no trouble when cold) I rigged up a switch to isolate the fuel pump, you would crank the starter with the pump switched off, the flooding would clear, the engine would cough and try to fire, then you turn the pump back on. It may not be the problem in your car, but it's not hard to hook up a switch and give it a go, and even if thats not the problem the switch can be hidden and used for an extra bit of security

Send it to Fiji and then re-import it = $700

Probably going over old ground, but the only RHD ones were converted from new by Birds in UK, used 325i steering rack, don't know about the standard 325i brakes someone else has mentioned, not part of the conversion as far as I know as it would have meant converting the discs from standard 325 4 stud to m3 5 stud, if you really want a RHD, the only place to source one is here or UK, vey rare in Japan and big $$ where ever you source it from. I don't think they use the actual brakes from a 325, just the master cylinder, booster, cross link, brackets and bell cranks etc.

It is not a vaccum problem, there are no vaccum lines connected to any of the gauges. The gauge gets a signal directly from the ECU. The gauge is probably just stuck, give the dash a good thump.

I had one (from a E30) but unless Brent picked it up when I chucked all my spares out it is probably scrap now. They don't fit into the standard E30 sunroof hole so they are not an easy retro fit. Also the headlining is completely to different to suit them. They look like a shitty cheap aftermarket sunroof compared to the standard metal one anyway, why bother?

I've got some, $40. I'm in Papakura. Phone Graeme on 299 7942 or 021 136 7007 or PM me.

It's an easy swap, but you MUST have a complete donor car to make it worthwhile. You will only be keeping the body and interior from your 316 as just about everything else is different.

when i start my car and put it in to drive and accelerate off it doesnt change gear for the first minute of driving then it starts changing correctly. i have been told it may be due to the trans having the wrong type of oil in it and that it needs either thicker or thinner oil. can anyone shed some light on this? thanks nick The govenor in the transmission is sticking, changing the fluid and filter might buy you some time, but it's days are numbered. Start looking for a replacement trasmission.

Gus, you are putting the water in while the engine is running and the heater is on aren't you???

That will work for a M40 but not for a M20. Removing the thermostat in a M20 doesn't force the water to circulate through the radiator all the time. It allows some of the water to run in a loop without going to the radiator at all. Sure the engine will be slow to warm up and it may even run cool for a while but of soon as you put the engine under load it will overheat.

When you say "door seams" do you mean on the inside of the door where the door skins wrap around the frame? If so that is not welded anyway, the flange of the skin is just bent around the frame then hammered down and covered with a sealant.

I had a brand new genuine BMW thermostat that was stuffed right out of the box. It sat the water temp rock steady at just over 3/4 on the temp gauge. Not good.

Niether fan (viscous or electric) has any effect while your car is moving, so unless your car is only overheating while it's stationary the fan is not the problem. Also I think the factory electric fan wiring only switches the fan on when both the water temp is high AND the aircon is switched on, so if the rest of the aircon system has been removed the fan will never kick in. Rewire it as Brent has all ready suggested if you really want an electric fan, but I dont think that it will help with your overheating. The viscous fan is all you need if it and the rest of the cooling system is working properly.

It's from a 87 318, as per the thread title. It is missing the flywheel, clutch, starter, ECU and relays. The dizzy is there but it needs a new dizzy cap and rotor. Yeah, It has an alternator. I'm in Papakura (South Auckland)

Yes, the gearbox will fit. The engines are externally identical, only the crank and rods are different.If you want to convert a 1.6 to a 1.8 I have a 1.8 crank and set of rods... FREE.

Does anyone want a M10 for spares?. It was running when I removed it from the car, but beyond that the condition is unknown. $50 or it goes to the scrap dealer. Ph 299 7942 or 021 136 7007.

If it's a belt driven cam then the engine is a M40 single cam 8 valve. Belts are about $70 from Repco. M40's are temperamental when it comes to fitting new cam belts. Setting the belt tension is critical (BMW use a tool designed especially for the job) and the engine has no timing marks.

Depends on the year. The earliest examples have nasty belt driven single cam engines followed by a chain driven single cam, then a chain driven twin cam.

I have a spare lower section of the sump, if that is the bit you need. FREE.

The "overheat" light is nothing to do with the engine temp, it is to warn that the catylitic converter is overheating. If the sensor is faulty or a wire in the circuit is broken it will give a false warning.

One of my S.A. assembled 318 wrecks had a CV joint at the diff end of the drive shaft instead of a normal universal joint. The 6 bolt flange on your diff my be to suit that set up or something similar.

If you can hear the relay clicking when you open the doors then the door switches must be working fine.The coil side of the relay must be OK too or you wouldn't hear the clicking but the switch contacts of the relay could still be the problem. Do you have a spare relay to try??

Not exactly. Rotary's are still 4 stroke engines. Each of the 3 faces of the rotor do perform a power stroke on each rotation (similar to a 2 stroke) but there are still 4 distinct parts to each "cycle" during each rotation. The rotors are then geared internally 1:2. So a twin rotor engine effectively has 6 cylinders and produces the same number of power pulses per rotation as a 6 cylinder 4 stroke piston engine. ie 3. Rotarys are slighty more efficent than regular piston engines and thus will usually use less fuel for the same power output as a piston engine. If you think of a 13b as a 1300cc engine based on the name, then the fuel consumption seems shocking but if you look at it as if it's a 3.9 litre 6 cylinder (which effectively it is) it's fuel consumption doesn't seen so bad anymore.

I have 5 straight spare rear cross members if you want some to play around with.

............if you want to destroy your shocks