gmccormack

Did you use a second hand master and slave cylinder? Did you rebuild them? Sometimes second hand hydraulics won't rebleed because accumulated rust and dirt that has sat happily in them for years get disturbed and then dragged through the rubber seals, wrecking them. Could that be the problem??

Motronic Engine Plug (round) L-jet Car plug (square) Pin 1 BL Pin 1 BL Pin 2 BL-V Pin 2 BL-Y Pin 4 BR-WH Pin 4 BR-V Pin 5 BR-GN Pin 16 BK-BR Pin 7 GN Pin 10 GN Pin 10 BL-WH Pin 15 V-GR Pin 11 WH-BL Pin 17 WH-BL Pin 13 GN-V Pin 7 V-R Pin 18 BK-YW Pin 8 BK-YW The colour codes above may not be the exactly same as on your car or engine (some of mine were different) depending on the year but they will usually be pretty close. If you are lucky you may find the wiring colours at each plug are the same and only the plug shape is different. Some of the wire colours changed over years and some wiring diagrams don't agree with one another (eg the Haynes and Bently manuals dont agree on colours, I even have two Haynes manuals that cover the same models, that are published in different years and they don't agree either) All the manuals do however agree on the pin numbers

Yeah I got em

BTW I have an old pedal box from a 86, if you still need one.

Yeah, I have some heater cores. Phone me on 021 136 7007 or 09 299 7942 or PM me if you want one.

They can all be made to fit, but facelift and prefacelift pedals are different

A M10 box won't fit a M40 engine. There are 13 different 240's. You need a 240-BMO or 240-TBCU or 240-BCX

The rear end of the shift link support may have fallen out of the hole in the body during the move forward and may not have gone back into the hole when you shifted it back. It may be jambed on the bracket with the hole in it, rather than seated in the hole.

No.

A pre FL rack will fit as long as you use the steering shaft for that rack as well. Why do you want to use a pre FL rack anyway? They are all 19 or more years old now. I would try and get a manual rack from the newest car I could find if I were you. Try and get one from a 90-91 316

One sold at Vehicle Tenders 3 weeks ago for $3600.

Is your car a facelift? Cam wear in M40's is a common problem. As the cam lobes wear down, the valves don't open fully and the engine can't get enough air. Often the engine will sound strained at high revs and won't pull to the rev limiter. The bad idle could just be that the idle speed is set to low. You might want to adjust it upwards slightly and see if the problem disappears.

I have some of them. call Graeme on 2997942 or 021 1367007

The glass shape is different depending on the year and whether or not the car has electric windows or not, which do you need?

I almost removed the ABS system from my old Rx7. The sealed non serviceable Bosch hydraulic unit started leaking brake fluid and Mazda wanted over $4k+gst for the replacement part. I took it to a brake specialist, they warned me against removing it. They had done the job before, but removing the system required that the car be certified. To get the cert every single part of the ABS system had to be removed, all the hydaulic parts + all the sensors + all the associated wiring even the warning light had to be taken out and the space where it was, covered over. Apparently they didn't want anyone that would later drive the car to mistakenly believe the car they were driving had ABS when it didn't. Statistically, cars with ABS end up in more accidents than those without, something about giving the driver a false sense of security.

The O2 sensors are aways mounted in front of the cat, after all there is no point sniffing the exhaust gas to see if the engine is running in tune after the cat has messed with the true composition of the exhaust gas. The sensor in the cat is just for overheating. I think the light can be turned off by earthing the wire that used to connects to the old O2 sensor.

There are 13 different 240 boxes, for 4's and 6's and E34's but they don't interchange. I can't see any reason why a 240 from a 320 won't work on a 2.5L as long as it uses the front mounted crank angle sensor.

The basic kit (eg, no radio system, battery or charger) will cost from $180 to $220. Most model shops will sell you a "combo", which is the car plus the cheapest, most basic extra equipment needed to get it moving for $350-$400. Genuine Tamiya replacement body shells $70-$120, the generic body shells are around $30-$40.

The Tamiya TT-01 would be a good choice if you are just starting out, easy to maintain etc. The white plastic battery connector and the mechanical speed control(if fitted) are the source of most, if not all of their reliability problems. These should be upgraded as a matter of course. It's not intended for serious competition in standard form but great for tearing up and down your driveway. Plenty of E30 body shells for them. Genuine Tamiya (very expensive) and cheaper knock offs from Frewer (NZ made) and Parma (USA). All M3's though, I have never seen any standard narrow E30 body shells

Where? Is the one surviving tail light worth 13K?

Also the early 320's use a mechanical rev limiter which can vary a lot from car to car. It would be interesting to find an old dissy rotor that gives you a few hundred rpm over the Motronic cars. I imagine in a race serise in which everything is so tightly controlled, having a higher redline than the rest of the field would be a massive advantage.

Gus, would you consider fitting a Megasquirt ECU?? Only $260 USD and much more flexable than just chipping and gets rid of the AFM. It is maybe not as advanced as an Autronic or Motec but seems to be at least on a par with the second tier aftermarket systems like Wolf, Microtech and Link.

Motronic engine into L jet car is easy. I did it with my old 323 (now Andrews car) by making a simple adaptor lead. It plugs straight in and requires no mods to either the car loom or engine loom. Andrew, could you post a photo of the adaptor lead?

How hard was moving the brake master cylinder to the drivers side? Is there room for the stock one under that air box or was he forced to move it to the drivers side? Do you think you could get away with leaving it in the stock posistion with a remote resivour and a slightly reshaped or smaller air box.

Yes it will fit, but you will need the steering shaft coupling from the prefacelift too. Keep in mind any pre F/L rack is 20 or so years old now so wouldn't be my first choice. Yes your tie rod ends will fit, they don't even need to be removed to do the rack swap, so unless they are worn and need replacing don't touch them. Yes you MUST have the wheel alignment done immediately.