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TronSpec

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Posts posted by TronSpec

  2. Posted · Report reply

    umm. i didn't get an engineer to install lowering springs.. so thats not very likely

    What do you need a cert for??

    You certainly don't need one for lowering springs unless they ain't captive, in the stock location, and lowest part of your vehicles structure including exhaust is not below 100mm

    Funny you say you guys get hassled by the 5 0 cause my car's modded and f**kin loud but I don't get any trouble from the police. It's only when you get caught doing somthing that they ping ya.

    It sounds like extortion the way the cops just hit everyone and lock down the carparks. It's bullshit how they can hold you there for 2 hours ..... what if you had a family emergency to go to............

  8. Posted · Edited by TronSpec · Report reply

    I'm heading over to aussie for employment reasons so I'm having to sell my car. I've spent thousands on this car but I understand I'm never getting it back. Would like to see it go to someone who will continue to develop the potential it has and not rice it out.

    Details are:

    89 e30 5spd m50 engine conversion

    92 m50b25 nonvanos (ex e34) 140,000ish kms hav got a Chip for ecu just not installed

    Custom 32mm equal length mandrel bent exhaust manifold heat wraped (mild steel) into stainless 2.5" straight through exhaust

    Custom stainless mandrel bent 3" intake with K&N

    Heavy duty carbon kevlar double sprung clutch (autoclutch NZ)

    2.93 Limited Slip Diff

    e21 booster with rekitted stock e30 M/C Zonelli Slotted front rotors with mintex pads and stock rear rotors with mintex bmw pads. Dot 5 fluid. stock calipers just rekitted

    Manual steering rack

    Bilstein shocks

    Jamex 60mm springs

    Custom strut top hats with cusom alloy strut brace ( thanx Riley aka drity325i )

    After market rear taillights and front and side indicators Custom smoked painted.

    Momo Steering wheel Jamex race seats //M gearshift nob

    Cd mp3 head deck 6" componets with cross overs tweeters, 6x9's in parcel tray

    I'm also including all the spares I have left over from the work I've done.

    Standard e30 springs

    2x standard front seats

    Power steering rack with pump lines and resevoir

    stock front brake rotors

    Standard taillights, front indicators, side indicators

    2x sets of 4 14" wheels ( 1 set are original bbs basketweaves ) other similar mercedes type 14"'s

    and a few other bit's and pieces lying around including tools and a trolley jack rear doors etc

    The car drives awesome and is actually more efficient than it was with the m20 motor. The car has being 100% reliable since I completed the engine swap.

    Car has 5 months warrent and a years rego left on it.

    serious buyers wanted that will appreciate this vehicle like I have

    $5500 for the lot Also I'm open to nearest offers for bimmersport members only otherwise this is bottom dollar. alot of car for the money.

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  12. Posted · Edited by TronSpec · Report reply

    Full set of graphite shaft irons and drivers 5,3,1 with bag and trundler.

    I'm also including my tailormade R7 driver

    It's a 425 head and 9.5 degree angle

    Clubs are a year old and still in good condition.

    The R7 driver is only 5mths old and in excellent condition

    The pgf club shafts are " HM Graphite mid kickpoint regular flex "

    And the R7 is tour edition Flex S fujikura Shaft

    $600

    bump

  14. Posted · Report reply

    This is the best I have, not really hi-res, but the idea is to get the timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys lined up, remove the dizzy and get the rotor to line up with the mark (arrowed) when you replace it.

    After you need to check the timing with a light, but if it almost lines up, you can fine tune it by rotating the dizzy clockwise/anti-clockwise till the "fingers" on the dizzy, both the fixed ones and the ones attached to the rotor shaft, line up, and the car will start.

    Give me a call if you don't follow what I am trying to say and i will talk you through it.

    Will

    PS if this works (and it will), you owe me becks... :P

    Mmmmm Becks :ph34r: Thats a good german drop

  15. Posted · Edited by TronSpec · Report reply

    Full set of graphite shaft irons and drivers 5,3,1 with bag and trundler.

    I'm also including my tailormade R7 driver

    It's a 425 head and 9.5 degree angle

    Clubs are a year old and still in good condition.

    The R7 driver is only 5mths old and in excellent condition

    The pgf club shafts are " HM Graphite mid kickpoint regular flex "

    And the R7 is tour edition Flex S fujikura Shaft

    $600

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  16. Posted · Report reply

    As soon as you take the hinged ends away the brace has to be bent at either end. As soon as you bend any type of piping you are reducing its end on strength. We have tested both fixed hinged and bent and the fixed hinge is by far stronger! The ultimate strut brace would be dead straight and level between the strut towers...not possible with the E30. Ours are as close as you can get...

    This had being disscussed when I was looking at getting my brace. In the end I just double locknutted my hinge part and she's as solid as f**k. As boydus said you need to have the hinge for fitment other wise you will need a gas axe and hammer to get them on and off.

    I guess if you were really worried you could fit it and take it in to a shop and have the hinges welded once it's on the car. I think Gary got one of these - he's modded it to make it stronger and reckoned it was a pretty sweet base to start with and would suit most people how it is. I'm not interested as the mounting plates are not shaped to match the e30 strut tops (ie the brace has flat mounting flanges but the e30 strut top is not flat) and so you either need to have longer strut top bolts or risk less thread holding it all on. Most people would say that's not a problem, but I personally don't want to risk it.

    Took a bit of work to get it right from what I hear. Good to see people doing things like this.

    I havn't got this exact brace. Mine is a custom one made by a engineer in the south island. When I got it I tig weld some spacers to fill in the bumps on the top of the strut mounts and also had to modify my strut top hat bearings ( drill larger diameter holes and welded longer 12mm bolts to the tophats ) so I could tighten it down properly.

    I recomment a sturt brace if your fussy about your handling. My gives me noticeably better turn in and a more positive feel through the corner.

    As silver fox said Wheres the deal for bimmersport members?? nice looking brace also. I would buy it if I didn't allready have one

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Did you line up your cambelt with the timing mark and count the teeth just to double check you've put it on it the right position?? It could be a tooth or two out mate by the sounds of it aye. I done this before on my old m20 motor. I had the thing three teeth out :blink:

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