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Yuen

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Everything posted by Yuen

  1. I would never go with that sort of headlights especially if I had an M3. Quite sure light pattern will be inferior to the Boschs. And fitment as well. Not to mention build quality. Alex, the car looks mint, I see what you mean by the car being outdated. The solution would be to get OEM euro clears, if you were to buy them new from the dealer they would cost around $600+. Get clears, the car will look cleaner by lots. Then if you want to take it a step further, smoke them. I have smoked corners and tails on my car now, it adds to the look. On your car it should look damn good. Stealthy and aggressive. That's Avus Blue right? And for what it's worth, if you still think your Bosch headlights are outdated, it's just because they're dirty. The glass doesn't shine as much as those TradeMe ones. Easy remedy, give them a clean. It will make them look brand new again, and it will sure as hell look better than those aftermarket one piece lights. Stick with factory. Here's how to clean them: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...osch+ellipsoids
  2. I think it will definitely be an improvement to the car! Not sure about blacking out your kidneys though, as the colour might not work with such a mod.
  3. Does anyone on here have the tool to hold the fan pulley so I can remove the engine fan with my 32mm wrench? Prefer to rent/borrow But willing to buy as well. Let me know your price (btw I'm in Auckland)
  4. Yup! I was after those exact wheels I had 17" RCs but they were stolen. After some enquiries with Mosen, I took some time to think about it. The next time I decided I wanted them, they were already gone Good to see they went to a fellow member on the forums though! Btw, did you go to those wheels from stock 15"s? They should be around 18lbs I think, I was wondering whether the car feels more sluggish after putting them on.
  5. The tuners are already on it and one of them on Bimmerforums posted a dyno of >350 rwhp IIRC... they are awesome.
  6. Woaa... were your seats that tight? Mine's a 92, the interior is pretty beat up, so I just yank away at everything.
  7. Hahaha, I don't need it But it IS a luxury car! Have you tried wreckers? There was one being sold in Bimmerforums sometime last week.
  8. Hey, car's coming along nicely. Btw, are your wheels the 18x8 RCs off TradeMe? The ones without the centrecaps sold by the Hamilton shop (forgot their name).
  9. Hold on... you have a 320i right? If so I would think your battery is in the rear just like mine so you shouldn't even need to go through the rear seats. Are you trying to run RCA cables? Anyway, to remove the rear seats, give the top bit (the bit your back rests on) a yank towards the front of the car. Do this at 2 points: at the top of the seat right below each headrest. For the bottom cushion, same thing, reach under the seats directly behind the front seats. Yank them upwards. Done! There will be a hole on the passenger side. It's covered with a rubber piece that has little holes, you can even punch new holes out if you require. It's used by the factory to run OEM wiring.
  10. I switched from Pennzoil dino oil to Castrol Formula R (full synthetic). It's going great. FWIW, I thought Castrol Magnatec would be ok if you aren't looking to go full synthetic, but my mechanic told me that Magnatec is some lousy stuff. He recommends Fuchs, they're german I believe, and they have a good reputation overseas. I believe they're OEM for some car manufacturers. Price ain't too bad either.
  11. Do you mean OEM clear and red taillights, clear sidemarkers and clear front corners? If that's what you mean, it's going to make your car look a lot newer that's for sure. If you can, post a pic of your car, easier to see what we're working with
  12. I'm 99.9999% sure that you're going to downgrade in terms of lighting, not to mention looks. Post pics once you've done it though...
  13. Really nice car. The wheels don't suit it though. It needs to get some BBS Mesh for that racecar look!
  14. So you ended up getting that car! Looks great, the mirrors and badges need to go, other than that, ACS, sweet Good buy, the E39 is an awesome car to drive, so refined. And when you start the car up it roars to life for some reason... something the E36s don't do.
  15. Yuen

    Roundles(sp)?

    I think the dealer sells them for $50 or $60. Use a flathead screwdriver with some tape around the top to prevent damaging your paint.
  16. Welcome, Josh! Your car looks exactly like my car when it was still stock, minus the bumper (mine's a 92 so it had a different stock front bumper, and mine didn't have painted mirrors). It's also an E36 320i from Japan. What alarm did you get? I've been looking at the higher end Dynatron and Mongoose. Rims-wise, I would get BBS wheels to suit the car, generally Jap wheels don't suit european cars, but sometimes you can find some that do. The most general advice would be something 5 spoke, you can't go wrong with those. I'm not a fan of chromies either. I would also advise you to watch your wheel weights, so basically don't go bigger than 17" if you don't want to lose significant 'go' in the car. The engine is already underpowered for the body as it is. My 17"s are ~22lbs each, and once they were on, when I stepped the throttle down to the point where the car usually auto-downshifts, it didn't do that. Fuel consumption increased, from 9km/l to 8km/l. The car lost some of its spirit. I would hate to think what would happen if you put 19"s on... unless they're lightweight ones which means they won't come cheap. Are you going to cut the rear tray to install 6x9s? Or are you using adapters of some sort? Good idea on the skihole, I've been wanting to do that, what size sub are you using, and I suppose the ski-hole is still sealed for you so you're going to punch it through?
  17. Sanyo? Haha I wonder if they used some sort of adaptor to fit the 6.5"s. Because I'm quite sure they aren't the stock size (I have a sedan so there's just a slight chance coupes are different)?
  18. Yuen

    Work wheels

    So did you get them Spargo?
  19. Docile, want to buy my Clarion + CD changer? What head deck are you using right now? The Clarion made a noticeable improvement over stock when I installed it. But if you have aftermarket, then it probably wouldn't make much of a difference. The aftermarket stuff just needs more power. Do you have 6.5"s in the kickpanels or the rears?
  20. Yuen

    Forum request

    That would be a good feature to have.
  21. In terms of quality, Depo is pretty much the best aftermarket brand you can get. They're of decent quality, many people use them because they offer quite a good price compared to genuine lights. Dnz has Depo clears I think. I think the price is pretty fair, and they come with bulbs too. Personally, I wouldn't get these because they look a bit ricey, and cheap. I've seen them on a car in the city a few times, they don't look very good. Perhaps if you had a white E36 it would work. I'd get the Depos that look like stock clears, but that's just IMHO to each his own.
  22. Yuen

    Work wheels

    Loving that lip
  23. There are 2 x 5.25" speakers in the kickpanels, and 2 x 4" speakers in the rear parcel deck. If you only have 1 speaker in the door, that's the midrange. Don't bother replacing that if you're just going for just an improvement over stock that doesn't involve amps. What's your budget? I think you can get a set of 5.25" co-axials from TradeMe or perhaps even shops for less than $100 and they'd be pretty good quality.
  24. Yuen

    Work wheels

    No idea, but they look nice Are they for an E36? They're probably light too eh?
  25. HOLD ON! Don't cut it up just yet. It WILL come off with a little effort using a flathead screwdriver in the right place. The first time I did it, I took at least 20 minutes trying to get that thing off. You're supposed to pull upwards to loosen it, it's basically 2 pieces that slide opposite ways (upwards and downwards). The piece that slides downwards has 2 pins sticking out (1 left, 1 right). The piece that slides upwards has a track on each side to slide on these pins. What you need to do is use as big a flathead screwdriver as you can find, and put it into the top of the bit that slides upwards (I believe it has a little diagram showing you how to remove it). Then, lever it by pushing the screwdriver handle upwards. It should get it off If you've already tried that, I suggest you try again, because it will come off for sure, it's just a plastic part that's been frozen through time. It's not worth cutting the loom. Just saw this post If you've gotten that far, you're VERY close. you just need to slide it up a bit more, IIRC mine does a little click to open up 100% for the loom to slide out. You just have to open it up that much more. If you've gotten the top bit more or less open you can probably use your fingers to yank it up. Once it's totally up, the loom will just come off. Good luck!
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