conrod

Looking forward to getting those monsters on the front, the calipers are a foot long ! But very light(2.8kg) as are the rotors, which are more hat than rotor. Yes definitely running a pedal box, I have bought some very trick Alcon master cylinders and am going to have the base cnc'd out of a solid block of ali, along with the pedals- should be quite trick! Have just bought some big AP rear calipers as well. Suspension wise I am thinking Reiger, they are very good quality (some say as good as Ohlins)and very easy to service/change valving etc. not 100% decided on that yet, I still have a bit of homework to do on that regarding pricing and getting the parts made to my spec.as none of it will be "off the shelf" I'll run with the MZ3 trailing arms to start with, with suitable adjustments welded on to the ends,and maybe some bracing added, otherwise it will take forever to get completed. I would like to fit Gp.A trailing arms to it, but that would be a case of trying to find some, I think the standard MZ3 ones, properly set up with good shocks/springs should give it pretty good grip to start with.Meanwhile, a pic of one of the master cylinders I am using, and a link which describes the setup (last three paragraphs) http://www.all4engineers.com/index.php;do=...9b50fb049885347

That engine was sat in the workshop I was using in Onehunga. Had my tape measure alll over that, looked like an easy fit into an E30! Was a bit pricey for me though, and didn't include the Ecu, gearbox and a lot of other parts needed to transplant it. Very nice piece though.

spoken to someone who has done it. Hp goes to 350,fuel consumption goes from 30 mpg down to 10, low end torque is lost, and it costs a bunch of money! Thats why mine is going to be kept fairly stock.

Good points about the LS1 Palazzo, everyone seems to have jumped on the LS1 bandwagon lately quoting HUGE hp numbers for peanuts, and as you well know the reality isn't at all like this. Holden NZ and Australia had huge recall problems on oil consumption/rattles etc. which saw many new engines torn down and rebuilt with different pistons. And as you rightly say, the 400hp (300KW) versions are not exactly thick on the ground, and will probably cost an arm and a leg to purchase. Further to that, if you ever see a Monaro/Commodore version with the sump off, and see the CRAP oiling system that is fitted to this version of these engines, it will put you right off. Sell your car, and buy a 3.0 M3, and if that is not fast enough, modify that. Still cheaper in the long run than any of the other options you have suggested, and will have a higher residual value when you have had enough and decide to sell.

The owner thinks it is cool! maximus fugliness......

Doesn't mean he will get it though!........Never be afraid to make an offer on things, including those brakes!.........

Option 1: na screamer- possible, but 300hp would be hard to achieve, and very expensive. Easier and cheaper to go and find an S50 and transplant. And here is one I prepared earlier! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-52134541.htm Option 2:supercharged and 400 hp- NO! From a turbo, yes, but double the hp with a blower, no. Active Autowerk kit looked good, and they even did RHD manifold. Option 3: the M62 is not THAT heavy, but 400hp? thats what BMW got out of the S62 with 5 litres and a lot of trick sh*t, you won't get it out of 4.4! Option 4: LS1, yeah, that will do it, will cost an arm and a leg if you have to pay someone to do it for you though. Option 5: Sell your car, and go and buy an M3. BMW have already done the hard work for you, and here is one someone prepared earlier! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/S...on-51992867.htm

Yes it was attempted. I have only heard the story second hand, but apparently it didn't make a lot of power. This would more likely to be due to the combination of parts used or tuning, not the fact that it was an ali block. Block problems usually manifest themselves in the way of bearing problems in less extreme examples, in the worst cases they will result in a large failure (blowup) as the movement within the block causes bearings to make metal to metal contact and as a result rods are thrown,pistons seize, cranks break etc etc. What EXACTLY do you want to achieve?

"with warranty" means exactly that! Its time you took a tougher line with them and don't let them push you around so much, fax the original invoice back to them with the "warranty" word circled! And let them know you won't be paying any further charges. If they don't play ball, send it off to your solicitor and let them deal with it. And make sure you are also reimbursed for all of the extra courier costs, surcharges etc. BTW, I think brand new heads from BMW aren't that expensive, used to be around $1500. Harden up dude!

About all I can add, is that when BMW designed the S50 M3 engine, they considered the ali block not stiff enough, partly because it was overbored and there is not a lot of material between the bores. Generally speaking an ali bloc for the same thickness won't be as strong or stiff as cast iron, but then again nearly all race engines have an ali block, and the strength can be built back in by means of stiffening ribs etc. So to answer your question- will the M52 survive a 400hp turbo conversion without giving problems- I REALLY DON"T KNOW!!!!!!

So does everyone who has visited that site!...... WTF is a manatee!?????? And why settle for puny 285's, go the whole hog, 335x25/19's yeah baby yeah!!!!

E30 M3 suspension, it bolts up, but you need a spacer for the disc (e46 m3 item)Not worth it, as the clearances are so tight... Conrad, jump in on this one. No way, might be another "Jordan" lurking in the shadows! Nothing I can add really,E30-323ti has covered it nicely. I am doing this swap on my E30 at the moment, E36 M3 front uprights, custom made struts, BIGGG brakes, M roadster rear trailing arms with more BIG brakes etc etc.

No, your wrong, it is a 1970, i have evedence to back it up if you want to take it that far mate, man i hate no it alls....http://www.buickstreet.com/70buickstreet.html i love you.."evedence".. no wonder your a bouncer. That should be "no wonder you're a bouncer," you're being an abbreviation of "you are." He who lives in a glass house...........

My friend with the Orange Torana, who you know Andrew, will happily sell you a cheap set or two of Coleman rotors and a BIG pair of Wilwood calipers, mind you the discs are all rooted -I think he has two or three sets that lasted not one meeting before buckling. In less than one year he spent the SAME amount of money throwing rubbish brake parts at his car, as it cost to pay for the new AP calipers and rotors, not to mention he has not had any braking issues since fitting them, and his car is the fastest stopping car in the class now. Perhaps a lighter and lower powered car like your BMW will not be as hard on brakes as his car is, but I'm sure the old cliche "you get what you pay for" applies here.post note: It probably looks like I am pushing the AP barrow a fair bit here, but the same comments would also apply to Alcon and Brembo who also make excellent brake products.

LMNO- a new one I had to invent for this- it is laughing my nuts off!!!! Okay, I admit, there was a small amount of "toss value" in going for something that big and elaborate, but economically it made sense, as it was less than a new AP setup of much smaller proportions, as well it fitted my criteria of really good brakes and suspension, to offset the standard engine I will be running. Yes they will fit, check the wheel pics out, they are massive and will actually take a larger setup than this.And as for my brains coming out through my nose, I may just have to remove it before hopping in! cheers guys, I'm looking forward to getting this one going!

I remember fitting a set of Schnitzer wheels to a new E34 way back when, a staggered setup,235's on the front on whatever rims, and I think the rears were 10" and they had 285's on the rims, which were maybe a tad wide for them. Anyway, if my somewhat hazy long term memory serves me correctly, we had to get the rear arches rolled to clear these monsters. I am not 100% certain on the rim size, everthing else I am, and it came down to the tyres being a bit on the large side, 255 or 265's probably would have been okay.

Just set my alarm for 3.20am so I could get up and bid on my Ebay brakes- and won the auction with FOUR SECONDS to spare (only way to bid!) Anyway, check out these bad boys, 8 piston/4 pad calipers with water cooling and 15 INCH rotors- the old E30 will think it has hit something when I jump on that middle pedal! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

there was a changover year from M42 to M44, I think 1994.

SOLD!!!!! Less than 24 hours too, thanks to the power of "Bimmersport" Good luck with your car Darren.

The gearlever delivers a similar result- ask me how I know! If I remember correctly the thought process was something like "Ohhh sh*t!"

Okay, lots of room there, they are a whopping 50mm from the back of the spokes to the mounting face, and the minimum inside diameter (which is quite flat right through) is 390mm, so should clear a 330mm rotor no probs.

A set of four OZ wheels in 17x8, 5x120, ET35. Came off an E36, but could possibly fit an E30 with 5 stud conversion. Some scratching to outer rim, but pretty much only paint depth, no gouges, and very clean.Two centre caps missing,no tyres (okay, one has a near new 235/45x17 which you can have for free!) Very hard to get in this style for a BMW, I will leave them on here for a week or so, then they will go on the dreaded trademe! $750 for the set. phone Conrad

I think you may get AP's for $400 to $500 each caliper if you do a bit of legwork and phone around for a deal. And I would go for second hand AP's if budget is a bit tight, that is what I am doing on my car- with a new seal kit they will work good as new( and yes, I am on a budget!)Anyway, its your car, your money and your call, that was just my 2 cents........... Lockheed AP is a cast iron road car caliper probably, not really what we are looking for.

A brace? Sounds like a band-aid to me! Give BNT a call,I was told they could get them.Or try Eugene at Trade Parts, 4440901. He is a bit rude sometimes, but get past that and he should be able to sort a good price on some AP's, he has brought in a few sets for people I know. These are the "road" spec. ones but many people I know use these for racing, the main difference being they have dust seals fitted and are a better price than the "race" versions. Simon Curry is the NZ distributor for AP racing- 0508simoncurry

Okay perhaps the sarcasm in my last post was lost, Wilwood brakes in all of my experience are very average-people use them because they stop okay and are cheap. Put a vernier caliper across one and get someone to stomp on the brake pedal and see what happens- they spread apart! As well as that, the rotors are crap, if you are doing really hard stops lap after lap they don't last. If you are going to spend a lot of dough getting hats and mounting brackets etc. made up, then spend the bit extra and buy AP, even the "road" calipers (the black ones with yellow writing) are a MUCH better caliper than any Wilwood, and same goes for the rotors. Price the calipers through Trade Parts, or I have heard BNT can get them too, they are not that expensive. Of course, if you just want to brake with the rest of the pack, and not be the last one to outbrake everyone into that big sweeper at the end of the straight, the WW's will probably be okay!..............