ducatiss

I may have a surround for the door handle for you. I will have a look in the weekend if you like.

haha yeah the timing belt - the most important thing eh!! Unless you have a receipt that it was done recently, get it done as well as any tensioners in there. What fittings are you looking for?

As above for the check light thing. As for the headlight guards its really up to you as to whether you keep them on or off. If you dont like them but still feel you would like to protect your lights from stone chips etc, you can buy from Repco some stone guard -its a bit like really heavy cover seal but if you are careful with your cuts you can do all headlights and the 2 foglights and unless you look really hard you wont know its there. Just make sure you have your lights on for a bit to heat the glass begore applying. I would change all the fluids - oil, coolant, trans fluid (if its any colour other than red) and maybe the brake fluid as well. While you are at it check your air filter and if required change only with original equip BMW (same goes for the oil filter). Get yourself a workshop manual for the car and enjoy.

Hang on - this guy used the point that the auction had a dollar reserve as a feature of the auction "this car must sell so $1 reserve here we go" so from that point of view he is obliged to sell it for a dollar. Daddymac is also an experienced trader so he should have known what he was getting into with a dollar reserve and the risks involved. The tricky point is whether he has the legal authority to sell it for a dollar (as its on behalf). He or at least the real owner could successfully challenge the sale on that point. My advice to you is to see if you can secure it for a fair price but really, its nothing special and you will see other ones equally good come up on Trademe all the time. If it was me I would take some satisfaction on laying a complaint with Trademe and then leaving a negative feedback that will ruin his 100 percent positive feedback rating!

To remain strictly legal you will need a cert as the 2.5 engine will make over the 20% threshold allowable....however it should not be a major deal.

Very nice mate - you are doing well. Look forward to seeing some nice chrome tips on that muffler. Dont get a big bore, just a couple of chrome tips either straight back or angled to the side looks best. What did you colour your instrument needles with?

Vinyl paint will work ok for you given that door card is not a high wear area. First you will need to p-roperly clean the door card with say meths to remove all traces of revive or armour all etc. The paint as per instructions. You will need 2 coats, possibly 3.

These do not work at all. Items such as this (usually a spinning blade somwhere in the intake or exhaust) have been around for the last 20 years in some shape or form. But because they do not compress the air (in the case of the intake) they provide nothing in the way of a performance increase. As for providing a "vortex airflow" - lol Of couse just my opinion if you want one then buy it - just do so with low (very low) expectations.

Have a set of Aigo spanners that I have used and abused for the last 25 years. Have lost the odd one or two (always the 10mm for some reason) but never broken them.

Agree with Gus to a point, the 320 engine isnt known for its performance and you would be better off slotting something else such as a 325 engine in. Having said that though, since you have a 320 at the moment you should start with a K&N filter, a fresh set of plugs, maybe look at a larger throttle body as well from a 325 (that way when you put your 325 in you will have a spare!!) I would do anymore than that though, instead you could spend your money on the handling which will give excellent results.

Regardless of the merits or otherwise of the ad, it seems that some people are getting more and more offended by everything these days - or is perhaps the white PC bone carving wearing do-gooders out there that simply love being "offended" on behalf of others who dont give a sh*t?

It never fails to amuse me the lengths people will go to to ruin a good car.

Righto so how do we go about getting one?

Thought about insurance or glass cover?

I dont want this to seem picky as your should be applauded for actually getting out and doing something to meed the need of us BMW drivers. But - I would like to see the plates modified so that the nuts do up along the complete length of the thread. From the looks of your picks there is a gap between the bottom of the plate and the tower, by reducing this (not sure how) a bit more thread could be contacted by the nuts. The thickness of the plate could also possibly be reduced if this isnt possible. Also, in my opinion, there could be wof issues or comebacks in the case of an accident if full thread contact isnt made due to the higher possibility of the nuts coming loose. Re the lateral movement - there needs to be absolutley no lateral movement at all over the lifetime of the bar. You are onto a good thing with this product and the price is very attractive. If those items could be looked at then you can count me in as a buyer.

Alloy welding looks good. Couple of questions 1. The nuts holding down the brace to the towers are only threaded half way up the nut (at least thats the way they appear in the pic) Will they tighten up along the thread some more? 2. Is there any lateral movement at all in the hinges?

Surely someone must have had this propblem before?

First up congrats on buying a BMW - challenges plenty but they are still a relatively simple engine to muck around with and with a workshop manual, you should be able to accomplish most things with common sense. Re the surging - check all your air hose connections - check the clips, and the hoses for leaks as this is the no 1 cause of wierd idles issues. Then check the fuel pressure regulator, idle valve and then the fuel pump. Fuel gauges do get dodgy usually due to bad connections at either the guage itself or the actual fuel sender. Either can cause what you are describing.

wack it onto tardme - would be keen

Yeah, I have them in mine also and find them very very comfortable - at least when you have them adjusted properly.

Thats not a bad price at all. Is that price for the front? Also whats involved in getting one? - Cheers

Does anyone know where to buy a front tower bar for my e30? I know you can get em off the likes of Turner MS in the US but what about NZ?

When selecting reverse or drive when the car is cold the rpms drop to about 500 and the car is almost stalling. If you raise the idle speed to where this doesnt happen, when the car warms up the idle is then at 12-1300 rpm. I pulled out the idle control valve (this is an L-Jet with the water heated idle valve) and as it was stuffed replaced it with a good one which I have tested. Problem is, there has been no difference at all on cold starts. I have checked right through for air leaks and it seems fine. Car drives well otherwise. Any ideas? - Anyone?

and the other thing he can learn is to keep up with his car maintenance so he doesnt break down next time!!

Try sitting in your car with the car facing uphill and downhill and spray it with water. With all the carpet out you should see where its coming from. In mine it was a boot seal. With the car facing downhill, the water had nowhere to go and pooled in the channel at the back of the boot by the rear screen. It would then run into the car beside the rear seat, underneath the trim and flood the rear footwell. It may be worth checking this as I too blamed my sunroof for this.