NVADER

Yeah definitely. Is that the white m sport with the big wheels? I see that around all the time. Very tidy!

That's mine. Doesn't get out much unfortunately but the old man was keen for a ride 😅

That could be the go...How much and have you got pictures? Cheers

After a flywheel to suit a manual m10 e30 and the shifter carrier plate. Located Wairarapa but happy to pay shipping

As title says, after a straight e30 pfl front bumper and a bronzit beige metallic bonnet. Cheers

Been busy so this thing's been on the back burner for a while but there's been a bit of progress. I'll finish it eventually ? Put the engine and gbox in so we could get some idea of where everything will go. The clutch hardline I had was from a pfl which are apparently slightly different, and as this car was originally auto, there was no bracket where the hard line attaches to the soft line so that was a minor pain to sort out. The manifold, FMIC and piping, downpipe, wastegate plumbing, and exhaust have all been done now. Chris Wratt from CWC Engineering has done all of the fab work on this. Hopefully get back into it over Christmas and start making the loom and get the dash flocked and fitted. We'll see.

Got around to taking the front subframe out and had everything media blasted. Then the same mate who did my cage welded the garagistic sway bar and engine mount reinforcement kit on -lad. Gave it a fresh coat of black and fitted up the e36 rack, 20mm sway bar with powerflex bushes, new links and ball joints all round, and finally put those offset Revshift CAB's on. The hybrid steering linkage was a bit of a mission but it works great and has given me a heap more room for the exhaust. Also bolted the manual pedal box in and made a start on stripping back some of the unnecessary wiring.

This car was one of the highlights of the meet man. So damn cool

Quick update. Haven't done a whole lot lately as I've been busy with work and my other vices. The M40 and all automatic related bits are now gone. Also had some pretty bad rust at the base of the A pillars that I wanted to get sorted before progressing any further so got that and the bumpers colour matched at the same time. So stoked with the result. Before: After:

Cage is complete, harness and seat are in and car is back home. Finally time to pull the poor old M40 out.

Agree with Andy, I'd take Jamex over King's any day. H&R's would have to be my top pick though and they can be had for sweet fa via ebay

Progress... Seats, carpet etc all stripped. Mocking up seat rails: Dash out, seat base/rails all ready for paint. Test fitting front laterals here. Cage is a standard 6 point kit from Racecraft in Christchurch. To say the fitment is great is an understatement. Measuring up main hoop for trimming etc. And pic of the front laterals and main hoop notched and ready to be dropped and welded. Since taking these pics the windscreen bar's been welded in as well so will hopefully be mostly done by the end of the week. Still have to install floor plates and lugs for harnesses and then it'll be back in my garage for the long awaited heart transplant. Good times.

Quick update... New 17x8.5 wheels with Falken ZE912's..will get a decent pic of them all on when it comes out of the garage next. Caved and bought a b25 so have been busy stripping, cleaning, and putting that back together. It was out of a Motronic 1.0 car which wasn't going to work (easily) with my facelift shell and my gearbox was also lacking the required mounting points for the crank sensors so I've put all my 1.3 bits on and bought a 173 computer to use in the mean time until the turbo goes on. Supposedly the 1.3 sensor will work fine with a megasquirt - bonus. Replaced the water pump, belts, thermostat, gaskets etc while it was all off. Almost there now and looks pretty good I think. Just have to get some new injector seals and hook the loom back up. Also got some M22 to AN adapters so I can hook up my Fenix oil cooler to the factory connections with some sweet shiny braided line because it looks cool. What else.....Cleaned and painted my intake manifold and rocker cover with some excellent high temp paint. Came up amazing and has a very hard finish. Couldn't get the metal emblem on the top to look any good though so eventually I got sick of looking at it and dremelled it out. It now has the steering wheel emblem from the donor car embedded in it. Looks amazing but will be interesting to see how long it lasts. Apologies for the crap photos. Most were taken in the garage around dusk and the lighting was ^&%#.

For the record, I've been telling him for the last 8-9 years to buy a BMW

Thanks for all the replies. I believe it's double skinned so I doubt you could get to the back of it but I'll have a look next time I'm round and get the chassis number as well. Cheers It's got the chassis number stamped into the firewall but the vin is on an NZTA tag. There are some odd edges around the chassis code but then looking at pictures of other evo's it could be normal. Awesome. Will have a read. It is black. Not sure exactly what year but it's an evo 3. I'm gutted for him and he's basically at the point where he's told me to stop reminding him about it hence me asking on here. Not right that this sort of thing happens to good people who've done the work. Private sale. A dealer wouldn't touch this car.

Looking for some advice regarding the best course of action... One of my best mates bought his dream car last year after working his arse off to save the money for it. It looked good in the photos and came with a wad of receipts and dyno sheets claiming some pretty epic figures. He flew down south to pick it up and and despite the exterior not being as tidy as he'd hoped, it was pretty quick and he was there so he bought it. As time has passed he's discovered some pretty unsettling things about it. The kit is fibre glass, there have been parts swapped out for cheaper chinese versions, and there are also some pretty key things missing that any genuine Evo should have such as the steel reinforcement on the strut towers and behind the rear seat. Due to the amount of bollocks information that gets posted on Japanese car forums and the age of the car, all of the above could be explained away BUT: the lvvc tag and factory spec plate etc have all clearly been removed and re-attached, and there's some weird edges around the vin stamp. Again, it has been resprayed so it could be explained away but it looks pretty bloody dodgy when looked at as a whole. He's pretty much decided that it's been plated and tagged and is understandably gutted. Before anyone says "well he should have looked harder"; yes, he should have but he didn't because he'd been waiting years to own one and just wanted to get in and drive it. My questions are: - What are his legal rights as far as getting his money back? I would think that the previous owner could be charged with selling something under false pretense but that doesn't help my friend unless he's granted reparation. - If a WoF inspector picks up that something isn't right, I understand they're required to note it on the cars record and fail the WoF but what happens then? - If he goes to the police and reports it as suspicious, what happens? If the shell actually has had the plates swapped and it's stolen or something will they just seize it and say tough luck? Any help will be much appreciated.

Number on the coding plug should be 1381 683

That looks a lot like the stock airbox with some sort of mesh block mounted to the top...Interested to see that apart. Some cool Ti's popping up around NZ now. Looking forward to seeing this done

After one of the following options: Gauge Cluster Coding Plug for a facelift 325i or Complete facelift 325i gauge cluster

They look great! Where did you get them from?

I have a a motronic 1.3 m20b25 that I'm putting into a 1990 316i. The car is pov spec and has the clock instead of a tacho. I also have a mint cluster from an '86 320i which has a tacho. Haven't taken either apart so my knowledge in this area is all courtesy of the interwebz. 1. I'm guessing the 320i cluster is pre-coding plug technology and so won't work as is without some crazy custom wiring but would I be able to transfer the tacho from it into my 316i cluster without much hassle or are pfl/fl clusters completely different? 2. Will the 316 cluster work if I replace the coding plug with a 325i one? 3. If 2 is a yes, are the coding plugs specific to Motronic 1.3 or can they be from any 2.5? Thanks in advance

Na they're 4cyl ones bought brand new. Just had rubber bands on those wheels. If it had been any lower the sump would have been on the ground. Measured my spring pads last night; lowers are 8mm and uppers are 7. Was around a 10mm drop in the back when I took the lowers out and was a much more obvious drop then the e90 hats in the front made. They are definitely softer than Kings but I guess it's a matter of taste. I personally think Kings are too hard and make the car feel like it's on cut springs. Jamex were indistinguishable from the factory ride for me.

Yeah i reckon mine dropped about that with just the lower pad taken out. If you take both out and have superlows in there they won't be captive without shortened shocks Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

Take spring pads out of the back, Makita one way adjustable springs in the front If you're running a rim/tire combo that's close to factory rolling diameter they do look a lot lower.

I got this just recently: http://www.mattlewisracing.co.uk/product.php/1046/25/clutch_hose___matt_lewis_racing Quality is great as is the price and it arrived about 4-5 days after I ordered it