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Your TV tuner has 2 x coax cables because it too has 2 x antennas, and the tuner switches between them on the fly to get the best signal. The correct setting is PAL Europe for the NZ channels, this allows reception of all VHF-1, VHF2, and UHF channels. In Auckland, around 11 free to air TV stations were receivable. Your quantity of stations will vary based on where you are in the country. Note too that on some low spec cars, they had no antenna diversity system for the radio. This is generally true if the car was a low end low cost model fitted only with the Reverse RDS radio. As soon as a Professional RDS or Business RDS radio was fitted, then the car generally had the 3 x FM antennas (on some cars, only 2) The FM antennas are generally all in the rear windscreen (except for convertibles) The TV antennas are on the rear side windows - one each side. Sometimes, an FM antenna is also on a side window The AM antenna is the rear window heating element

I disagree. You would have gone from a diversity system with 3 antennas down to one default antenna, due to the loss of the diversity control signal when you upgraded to BM54 However, because you lived in Auckland, and had such incredibly strong FM signal levels, you never noticed. Drive down country to Hamilton and the Waikato, where FM signal levels are much weaker, and then you really really notice the effect of having one antenna or 3. Makes a huge difference when you are experiencing FM signal fading I always recommend keeping the complex and well engineered antenna system in original condition - if your car + radio was designed and built to utilise 3 FM antennas, then don't change it!

C24 = old generation car. (Otherwise, you'd have a BM54 anyway, and could simply reprogram) So BM24 is plug and play swap for the existing radio BM54 requires new antenna amp and wiring loom adaptor

BUT be aware of the difference: If the car is pre-2001, then BM24 is a direct plug and play swapout. Fitting BM53 and BM54 to a pre-2001 care requires a wiring loom adapter AND a new antenna amplifier Fitting a BM24 to a post 2001 car is NOT recommended, as it is a backwards step, and the wiring loom adapters are not available. The BM54 is the best choice of all three, it is the newest radio, with better nav voice override function, and MP3 CD changer capabilities as well as Aux-In functions.

Just remember the C23 oceania radio model (which is what you have) is a direct plug and play replacement for people with a C23 JAPAN tuner And there are lots and lots of Jap BMWs on the road with C23 Japan radios, so you will find a buyer for your old radio very easily.

Yes you can stop the flashing You need to turn of cold monitoring, warm monitoring and check control messages

Yes, DECT and Bluetooth are both 2.4GHz, the antenna is the same Either TCU or ULF will work. Both offer full integration with the nav system, which you may not have with aftermarket units ULF offers voice control of nav and phone TCU is voice control of phone only If you just use the TCU for a BT phone connection, then the Assist function (and hence the GSM or CDMA part) does not matter. However, if you try and code using BMW software tools, they will complain of the wrong module for the car of you fit a CDMA to a Euro-spec car. Advantage of aftermarket is however rapid software development and firmware upgrades, and greater compatibility with modern phones

then don't even start

Easy peasy when you use the BMW Wiring Diagram System, available online in many places.... like here: http://spaghetticoder.org/bmw/wds/ OK, you'll note there are zillions of different phone options, but when you narrow it down to the BIT, you'll see all BITs are cabled the same. Just remember to distinguish between the Japanese BIT (JBIT) and the standard BIT.

You can do more in NavCoder when you work with the raw data Procedure: 1. Dump the CodingData to a file 2. Send me the file, include your VIN 3. I can look at the data and tell you what data to change, and send you the command for it

Yes and no. You can switch off the cold and warm monitoring, depending on model and version of LCM you have Whether it affects the flash rate is something you have to try and see.

There is no flasher relay. The LCM controls the pulsing of the indicator lamps electronically. It sends a data signal to the instrument cluster, and a clicker in the cluster is activated to make the good old fashioned sound of a flasher relay.

Look at the WDS, see what devices have the ibus, decide which device is easiest to access-..... If you don't want to watch the ibus traffic, consider just using the dbus on the obdii connector

remember this: if you remove the factory unit and fit after market, you loose all the control functions provided in the factory system: You won't be able to set / change the clock You won' be able to set or reset any trip computer data you won't be able to control the auxilliary ventillation you won't be able to set and change the vehicle language, it may default to German etc etc So investigate all the items you can control with the 16:9 screen, and ask yourself how you will manage without them

Change the Jap nav computer for the Euro nav computer and hey presto - fully functional navigation in NZ. I've done loads, it works. You can then add the Euro ULF or TCU bluetooh phone interface for fully working handsfree phone and voice control as well

I new Murray Wood from CTV / Magnum Mac. He and many of his staff were killed. Rest in Peace Murray, you were a good bloke.

All depends what car you are talking about... Mini, Rolls Royce, Range Rover, X3, X5, E38, E39, E46, Z4, etc etc etc Help me a little bit...

First result when googling: http://www.google.ch/search?q=e39+button+s...;hl=en&sa=2

Depending on the age of the car, it is either a button press to enable tv in motion, or you have to do it with programming.

That ebay cable is exactly what I used on my iPod Classic 160GB when connecting to the AV IN on my E39 540i. Worked fine, and had the added benefit that it charged the iPod (12V charge) Note that the cable is just a cable, offering AV out and 12V Power in, it has no electronics in it.

Just make it simple and fit the proper trailer lamp control module. Look on ebay

I'm currently in Auckland. Whilst I have my software here, I didn't bring an interface woth me Any standard OBDII KKL interface with a USB connector will work. As for getting digital speed display on the dashboard, that is available as a standard diagnostic function on most BMW instrument clusters. No coding required. Any turning off lamp warnings is easy, although my notes for that are at home (I need my notes if the car is a facelift E46)

Crikey, you'd pay money for a Mk1? Can I sell you my Nintendo 64? And I have a perfectly good Windows 3.1 PC, would you like that as well? You should research just what a Mk1 is, and how you have to do calibration turns and lots of work to keep them accurate. They have magnetic compasses and very different setup to the Mk2, Mk3 or Mk4 And they are sooooooooooooooooooooooo sloooooowww...

here's the cable you need: http://www.kufatec.de/shop/product_info.ph...nd-MK4-E39.html just use a generic magnetic mount gps antenna, on trademe for $45 or so. You need one with an SMB plug

of course that's the whole point of obd2: it's the diagnostic interface to allow to to recode the car and diagnose the car