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There is no standard map format. Every manufacturer makes their own optimised and proprietary format You need to contact Dynavin.

The GPS will always try to acquire satellites, you cannot stop that happening. I would wait and observe for the next week. Here in Europe I also have had 3 days in the last week where my GPS receiver has failled to acquire satellites, or had very large errors. It could be a temporary GPS disturbance, so wait and see is the best bet. Over the last 10 months the GPS was solid and reliable, so my GPS errors have only just started. You can also observe the S/N levels in the service menu: for reliable GPS the S/N is between 8 and 15, and you should see around 6 satellites with good strong signal. If you see signal levels on only around 1 to 3 then that is an indication of lots of atmospheric disturbance, and/or a weak GPS antenna. Replacement GPS antennas are cheap, I've bought them on TradeMe for around $45 And if that doesn't work then replace the GPS receiver module inside the navigation computer. There's a dutch guy sells them online. So to recap: 1. Observe, take notes, and wait one week 2. If you are convinced the GPS is poort, try a replacement antenna 3. And if that fails try a replacement receiver EDIT: I just saw the photo. S/N levels of mean no signal whatsoever. Suspect that a) antenna cable unplugged or antenna faulty

If no-one has rewired any of the taillights then the cause can ONLY be a faulty LCM If you have the ignition OFF and the light switch OFF then all lamps must also be OFF. If a lamp stays on, it is getting power from somewhere, and the most likely fault is that the transistor on the output stage of the LCM that supplies that lamp, has failed. If you have an electronics experience, you can diagnose and replace the transistor easily. Otherwise, replace the LCM CAUTION: Coding of the new LCM to your vehicle is crucial! The odometer and vehicle coding are stored in the LCM, fit one from another car, without coding to your vehicle and the odometer tamper light will come on, and the coding will likely be incorrect. Coding of the replacement LCM to your car can only be done by original BMW software (or equivalent expert tools)

Likely you have wired them incorrectly, or it is a US-function for US lamps (did you get them from the US?)

No it doesn't. You can unplug and discard the Jap nav at any time. At next vehicle re-boot, the video module will notice the Jap nav is no longer present and will take over generating the graphics. You just have to wait for reboot (key off, close and lock car, wait 15 minutes....)

Take it to Glenn and get him to fix it properly. It will be faster and likely more cost effective for you.

white yellow grey tip: databus wires have 3 colours

typical sysmptoms of a) a flat battery, which cannot handle the extra load of the the engine etc when ign switch moved to Pos2. Many systems shut down under low voltage. Solution: charge the battery! or B ) a faulty ignition switch, where the contacts inside the switch are worn. Solution: replace the electrical part of the ign switch with a new (not 2nd hand) one. Easy and cheap. If you fit 2nd hand, you don't know how worn the 2nd hand switch is, and the problem may reappear a few days/months/years later. Missing data on the board monitor display can be caused by a broken ibus connection to the ignition cluster - OR by corrupt data on the ibus due to poor ignition switch contacts (causing noise on the 12V line) Symptoms point to bad ignition switch, as it is highly unlikely you would have an ibus physical wire problem as well as another problem at the same time. Tip: wiggle the key when ignition is in Pos2: does it make the symptoms come and go, or change at all? If so, ignition switch is definitely worn and must be replaced.

Assuming the vehicle is an E39 540i: Remember: Steering Wheel controls only work with Ignition in Pos 2 (ON) position. They are not powered up when key is in Pos 1 (ACC) If the nav system looses the ibus data connection, then the steering wheel controls will not work, the system will not be able to talk to the instrument cluster, and the trip computer menu item will disable after a period of time. All functions that require data from the instrument cluster will not be possible. But Television and Navigation will still be displayed, as their ibus connections are in the same nav loom. If your accessory position (Pos 1) on the ignition switch is faulty, then the board monitor will not turn on the display (ie: things will work but you won't see them). Check the text display on the instrument cluster to confirm that you are able to control radio, CD, etc.

Normally the ballast which is at fault. Google "flickering xenon" for lots of info Otherwise, it is simple End of Life for the bulbs. Replace the bulbs. Read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-intensit...amp#End_of_life

The AV-IN plays any AV source I had my iPod connected to it You must have the TV settings the same (ie: PAL for device and for AV in) and you must have the wiring correct The AV-in is a 3.5mm stereo socket, with: Body=Ground Ring=Video Tip=Audio Only mono audio, so connect Left and Right audio together for Mono.

Yes, I had this on my E39 540i Very easy to fix. Arm yourself with the original BMW butyl rubber sealant strip - cheap from BM Workshop. So cheap that you wouldn't even think of using anything else but the original high quality butyl rubber. Don't use silicon sealant, that makes future door maintenance impossible. You'l need about 2.5m per door. Do all 4 doors at the same time, because if the butyl has failled in one door, all other doors are the same age and will also likely fail shortly as well. Remove door trim Carefully pry up moisture seal plastic sheeting, without breaking it! Lift a bit at a time and use a sharp Stanley knife to cut any butyl rubber sealant that is still sticking. Remove all old butyl rubber Fit new butyl rubber in place, in one length. TIP: make the joint at the TOP of the door, not the bottom. You want the bottom half to be totally watertight Press plastic moisture seal back on, making sure that you seal ALL the way around with no gpas whatsoever Refit door trim.

Volume control is not a potentiometer, it is a rotary digital encoder. The steering wheel volume controls can be used the same as the radio volume controls. They produce the same data on the ibus.

Traffic info receiver for Japan. Allows reception of other data as well. Waste of space anywhere else in the world. Discard. The box is the antenna amplifier, and it connects to the on-glass-antenna Depending on what window in the vehicle you are talking about, the on-glass-antenna will be TV-only, or FM radio & TV, or FM, AM, and TV. I'd pick you're looking at the TV-only antenna. There are 2x TV antennas with an amplifier each, and a coax cable each, running back to the TV tuner. If you want to utilise the on-glass antenna with a new radio setup, keep the amplifier and coax cable, you'll need it.

Not that easy. Remember, you don't want ACC, but rather RadioOn. Because you can turn ACC off, but still have the radio running. (try it :-) So the antenna amp wire MIGHT be a RadioOn state, or it might be a a VehicleAlive state (ie: on when vehicle awake, off when vehicle asleep). VehicleAwake and VehicleAsleep are different states to RadioOn, ACC-on and IgnitionOn. I'd probably choose the VehicleAwake state to power a SubAmp. Then it is on and ready to thump when you turn the radio on. Or phone on. Or TV on. Or iPhone on.

Physically and electrically, Yes However, they are not the same The viewing angle on the X5 is totally different to the E39, meaning that with an X5 monitor in an E39 you cannot or can hardly see the image on the monitor's screen. You would have to adjust the viewing angle - which means dismantling the display, and plugging it in - in a dismantled state - and then experimenting with the adjustments until you find the viewing angle adjustment. Fraught with danger and not for the faint hearted.

In Auckland, the main DVB-T transmitter is still Waiatarua (up above Henderson) Sky Tower and some other sub.sites are effectively low-power repeaters But yes, you'll find that any DVB-T mobile reception craps out at about 30 kmph Unless you have a diversity tuner, in which case DVB-T goes to about 300 kmph

The abbreviations colours are always based on logical German abbreviation of the colour. Mostly very clear and unique, eg Schwarz = SW, Orange = OR, Rot = RT, Weiss = WS The one that always catches me out is Grau or Grün: GR could be either, so at that stage I look at the physical wire to be sure which it is ...

Yep, that'll do the same thing The LogiTech adapter can be found by googling for Logitech Wireless Speaker Adapter

ZF and IF are the same thing, but in different languages ZF=Zwischenfrequenz IF=Intermediate Frequency

Firstly, you do not have a MID You have the On-Board Monitor - a completely different system to the MID What you are seeing is the result of the nav system crashing and not prodcing any video. The TV tuner notices that the nav is not communicating, and takes over control of the display. the resultant graphics are now generated by the TV tuner - and appear in a different style. Let you car go to sleep (key off, close and lock car, wait 15,min) and then open the car and switch on the nav. The nav will reboot after a sleep, and hopefully will come back Otherwise, if the nav is still not back up, it has failled and will need to be replaced. I am not sure if you have the NAVJ japanese system or the NAV (NAVE) Euro system (Mk2, Mk3 or Mk4)

> Half the reason for this is that I like the concept of having the iPhone up front where it can be seen and accessed. Go for the bluetooth option. I have bluetooth with my iphone in my current care and it is a dream The Logitech adapter is only about 40 USD And a CD emulator is only 50 EUR: http://wcs.minibarebones.de/shopping_cart....roducts_id=1384 Much much easier than what you are trying to do

The electric window safety overload sensor Designed to detect a hand or foot or nexk trapped between window and door edge when window is going up

Diversity tuner is one thing The ability to control the BMW diversity antenna switcher is another Does the Dynavin have the 2 x different diversity antenna switch control signals that the BMW needs? Pre 2001: IF signal output on small coax cable to tell diversity switch when to switch Post 2001: IF signal output on same antenna cable to tell diversity switch when to switch

if you want to simply tell the system that a tape is in, but at the same time fool the end-of-tape detection, then you'll need to override that logic. Which means pulling the tape mech apart to see what is detected where The end-of.tape relies on rotation detection of the tape spools, when they stop rotating (impulses stop) then the mech changes direction. Lots to fool - why not simply fit an iPod CD emulator to the Cd changer port? Much easier, simpler, and quicker...I did that in my VW Passat. A 10min job to fit, a 5 min job to remove when the car was sold. And no damage to any of the factory components. Heck, these days you could eve add a bluetooth connection like I have to my home stereo using the Logitech Wireless Speaker Adapter for Bluetooth® audio devices. Works great, delivers line out analog audio. http://www.logitech.com/en-us/speakers-aud...speaker-adapter