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Showing results for tags 'obc'.
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Hey Guys, Just thought I would let you know about the great service I got from this guy. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listings.aspx?member=1969570 His name is Kerry and he has repaired my instrument cluster and mid for my E38.My mid was doing the usual pixels are gone and it was a get around to it thing. The cluster lights on the second row stopped functioning and then the stepper motor on the speedo failed showing a maximum speed of 40km so I had to have something done. Auto sparky told me it would be 4 weeks and around $800.00 - $1000.00 for the repairs. I found him on Trademe and after a quick chat I boxed it all up and sent it to be repaired. The service has been excellent, he has sent me pictures showing the issues within the units, progress images as they have been repaired, and the completed repair images. The turn around has been 4 DAYS! Including overnight couriers in both directions! The repairs completed were New mid led and bulbs, New resistors in instrument cluster lighting circuit, All stepper motors replaced in the instrument cluster, 3 new bulbs in instrument cluster. Total cost including shipping was $360.00 with a 12 month warranty If you need some work done on this part of your car I thoroughly recommend talking to him. He is based in Christchurch. Pm me if you want his contact details. Cheers
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So after totalling my beloved and reliable 2001 330Ci, I've bought a 2009 525i. The onboard computer shows nothing amiss beyond being overdue for a service (which has actually been done but my mechanic couldn't reset it). Today, the check engine light came on. I assumed it was complaining about what it saw as an overdue service. But out of curiosity I ran the OBDC I have over it, and got more codes than Alan Turing at Bletchley Park. These include (some codes may be wrong as my photos of the screen have reflections): 93FB - control-module fault 9408 - undervoltage during self test A3B1 - signal or value below threshold A559 - Supply was switched off (terminal 30G - f) A2CD - control unit undervoltage A46D MOST - ring reset fault 5B69 - wheel speed sensor rear axle: mixed up (!!) SF4B - Interface, instrument cluster 5DCF - Control module, under-voltage 5F45 - brake fluid level too low (this was topped up during the service just before Christmas) 6140 - redundancy comparison, driver's steering angle A830 - resetting system faulty A83B - Undervoltage 93D0 - Undervoltage A409 - Undervoltage 931D - System voltage When the car was trucked from Auckland to Wellington it took so long the battery went flat. I therefore invested in a new one from the AA at over $750 (on top of several thousand $ getting my dad's old car going as a back-up for the family and for sentimental reasons, plus of course the purchase price, all right before Christmas) 😬 So the multiple undervoltage faults can't be traced back to the battery. So my questions to the brains on this forum are: What's the possible cause(s) of the undervoltage reading? Could undervoltage be causing all, or at least some, of the other faults to show up? Why is the onboard computer showing everything okay other than oil and brake fluid? Obviously I'll double check the brake fluid visually, but aside from that is there anything here that's absolutely dire and could affect the safe operation of the vehicle or damage it if not addressed immediately?
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I have alot of parts lying around I need to move on; Open to reasonable offers, I have lots more I will add on over the next few days E30 13-Button OBC Retrofit - OBC and complete loom + Control unit + sensors + Remote indicator stalk + Gong and OBC Horn $350 E30 OEM Business RDS Headunit and Premium Audio system - Business RDS Headunit (Still fitted to centre panel, don't have a small enough torx screw to remove it) -CD Stacker and boot mount -Front / Rear Speakers and Tweeter pods - Complete uncut wiring loom for the Headunit and Speakers and CD Stacker $550 E30 Z3 Rack Conversion - Z3 Rack fitted with E30 tierods / boots (near new condition), includes AKG Rack spacers for mounting $600 E30 Window Regulators / Motors - Sold individually - No right rear available anymore $40 E30 Red tinted Taillights -Good Pair $50 E30 Rear Taillights - Rear left has a minor crack - Right side is good $40 each E30 OEM Rear Quater windows - Sold Separately $50 E30 ABS Pump - Good working condition $60 E30 Sunroof Motor - Good working condition $50 E30 Boot lid -Stirling silver $50 16 x 8" XXR530 Wheels with Semi-slicks -16 x 8", includes centercaps - Dunlop Direzza 03g Semislicks 225/45/16 $750 I also have lots of other parts, Will add more as I go. Have tonnes of interior trim parts (No door cards, centre consoles or seats), switches etc. Taillights, Wing mirrors, Boot lid panel. More $1 reserve parts listed on Trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listings.aspx?member=1539744 Ski-bag SE Steering Wheel Toolkit OEM Firstaid kit Rear trunk spoiler
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- oem rds radio
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This is E39 specific, but it MAY work for the E38 and E53 too - not sure, probably best to find out, before you try it. I made this from info collected off the net, and use it quite a bit, so thought I'd tidy it up and sort it out to hopefully make it of use to others. Because of the high number of problems with cooling systems, and the HUGELY buffered gauge on the E39, I thought I'd make a "How to" to read the KTMP (Coolant Temp) your E39. NEVER trust the gauge - there are a lot of E39's out there with faulty thermostats and are consuming copious amounts of fuel because of running too cold. Also, on those with "map-control" electronic controlled thermostats, they can run too hot if the thermostat heater is burnt out (It logs a fault code in the DME fault memory, but does NOT bring up any warning to the driver). The E39 temp gauge seems to read "normal" (12 o'clock) from about 75C up to at least 115C. High OBC is a text display under your instruments Low OBC is a picture of a car under your instruments Test 7 displays the KTMP figure, in degrees Celcius. This is the coolant temperature that the ECU is measuring in the engine. I've not confirmed it, but some people report change in the KTMP display depending on key position - Position 2 (with the engine running or not) appears to be the side of the coolant sensor used for the ECU temperture readings, and position 1 appears to be the temperature the gauge uses - The sensor is called a "Dual Temperature sender" because it has the two readings. If one side is faulty, this should show it up. To access the "High OBC Secret Menu" and KTMP (Coolant temp) add up last 5 numbers of your vin (mine are 59439, so 5+9+4+3+9 =30) turn ignition on 1 or higher (or start engine) Hold right side button until test appears( 5 seconds?), repeatedly press right button until test 19 is shown, then repeatedly press left button until it says Lock: 30 (or whatever your VIN added up to) press right button press right button until test 07 shows press left button and it will show KTMP - coolant temp. press left will cycle through KTMP, RPM and something else. It will stay there until you turn the car right off (key position 0). To access the "Low OBC Secret Menu" and KTMP (Coolant temp) The 'low' OBC, with your one button is a bit harder: There are three actions you can use with the button: short press, long press (1 second+ish) Wait turn ignition on 1 or higher (or start engine) Press and hold the button until "test 1" appears (5 seconds?) and immediately release the button. quickly start "short presses" on the button, with a short pause between keep up the short presses until you get to "test 19" (if you go past, you can keep going up to 21 and back to 0...) While "test 19" is displayed, "wait" - it will enter test 19 after a short wait (If you accidently drop into another test, Easiest way is to start again - key off and back on) Display should show "Lock ON/OFF", where on and off will alternate between one and the other. short press while it says "Lock OFF" and as soon as it display changes to "test 0", start the short presses again, until you get to "test 7" When "test 7" is displayed, "wait" to enter the test, and it will then display your KTMP. It will stay there until you turn the car right off (key position 0). Thermostat ratings: M52 = 92C, Mechanical thermostat M52TU and M54 = Map Control, Mechanical rating 97C (generally run at 92C - 98C at cruise, may drop down to high 80's briefly under load) M62 and M62TU = Map Control, Mechanical rating 108C (generally run at 92C? - 110C at cruise, may drop down to high 80's briefly under load) S62 = 79C, Mechanical thermostat Diesels = I think 88C, Mechanical Thermostat The Mechanical Thermostats should generally stay above the Thermostat rated temperature, unless going down long gradients using no throttle (lot's of airflow, but no fuel burned) - though that will usually only drop slightly and come backup quickly once fuel is burned in the engine. They may go higher, if the cooling capacity is exceeded - the viscous fan, or auxilliary fan should pull the temps down before "the China Syndrome" The Map Control ones will function like the mechanical thermostats above, except the ECU controls a small heater built into the thermostat. It can heat the thermostat up, forcing it to open more and pull engine temps down during heavy loads. The engine temp can vary a lot, but should never cool down much, for very long. Most of the time you should be in the ranges I stated above. Do be aware, with the Map Control ones: The small heater can burn out, and the ECU loses it's temperature control mechanism - it will them run at the High temperature that is the Thermostats mechanical rating, and should be replaced, ASAP. It will NOT bring up a warning of any kind, except when scanning the DME (ECU) for codes. Diesels may have an EGR thermostat too, which can cause warmup issues. If you have any cooling system issues - use the KTMP reading to see what's really happening - because of the bufferd gauge, it doesn't tell you what's going on, and if it does move to the red, it may already be too late! High OBC cars (only) will give a loss of coolant warning. Low do not. If the coolant suddenly escapes, you can cook the engine without the gauge even moving - the sensors only work properly when they're IN coolant.
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Does anyone here have experience with the OpenOBC modifications for the 18 button e36 OBC?
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ok car is an e39 540i think its the high obc button on stalk and read out on dash as well as on the screen Issues: screen has no display when car is running obc is accessable when car is not running but switches off when you start her up all the functions of the obc seem to be running in the background as in the km per liter etc the volumn knob is quite sensitive at times..turning it slowly it can sometimes just go straight to full blast and the buttons for the radio on the steering wheel have stopped working is this a relay-i-bus issue or what? where do i begin to look and how would i diagnose?cheers
