Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 13, 2008 Cam I blew a medium cased diff with the M50 conversion non turbo haha. Im sure the diff was pretty used and on its way out aye. I had it going in 3rd gear doughys and it got noisy then went out to do more... dropped the clutch in 1st and she just shattered.... This was a crappy open diff btw Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted October 13, 2008 If you think about how a diff works, single wheel donuts is absolutely raping the poor little spider wheels. That's why it died. Mine's an LSD, and has been modified for higher lockup (and is pretty tight) - I reckon that puts less overall strain on the spider gears - so I am hoping it will be ok.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 14, 2008 If you think about how a diff works, single wheel donuts is absolutely raping the poor little spider wheels. That's why it died. Mine's an LSD, and has been modified for higher lockup (and is pretty tight) - I reckon that puts less overall strain on the spider gears - so I am hoping it will be ok.... Yea no doubt it would have been alot more strain all that power on driving only one wheel, but in this case the open diff always hooked two wheels... dont ask how but it did, still the diff was fairly old and im sure it was loosing oil blaa blaa... Did you get your LSD shimmed Cam? What did it cost to get done? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted October 14, 2008 Yes, and I don't really know as it was part of a whole lot of work, including changing the ramp angles and getting a 4.27 ratio in there, and other work on my car. I would guess at least $500, plus any bearings/seals that need replacing, if you just wanted it set up with an extra set of clutches (involves machining the housing slightly larger). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 14, 2008 Ah i see, gotta get an LSD first before I can even do that. I'm not too clued up on shimming or adding extra clutchs to an LSD. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
320guy 0 Report post Posted October 18, 2008 Im also building a m50 turbo e30 at the moment, engine is in pieces at the moment getting a freshen up before it goes in. Theres alot of nice m50 turbos around on the net, someone linked to Protomors build on e30tech, his build is so rough haha. Whats gearbox are you using? Unsprung clutches are pretty hard on gearboxes aswell. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 18, 2008 Im also building a m50 turbo e30 at the moment, engine is in pieces at the moment getting a freshen up before it goes in. Theres alot of nice m50 turbos around on the net, someone linked to Protomors build on e30tech, his build is so rough haha. Whats gearbox are you using? Unsprung clutches are pretty hard on gearboxes aswell. Oh true awesome, you documenting it on here? Good stuff im just running my setup on a stock motor until i decide to build up my spare block probably stroke it to a 2.8 or 3.0 sometime. Yeap there def is got too many youtube links etc haha! Oh right I will check that out haha. Im running a ZF E36 gearbox. And yea they are pretty rough to be honnest. Will see how she holds up. What gearbox are you running? What turbo, boost, ecu etc? You should post up about it. Luke Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
320guy 0 Report post Posted October 18, 2008 (edited) Ill be running a getrag 240 at first, then I will change it somthing stronger if it self destructs. I was planning on running a Holset HX35, and probally will still run one if I can find one, otherwise I will start looking at somthing else. Ill be running a Link ECU, pretty much because they're alot of tuners around in NZ for them and alot of support if anything goes wrong with it. What brake booster are you using? Edit: Oh and while ive got the engine apart some of the lifters seem to be jammed, well most of them actually. Some of them press in pretty easily, some press in easily but not as far as others, and some dont budge at all, though you can still spin the inside part of them around. Ive got them soaking in some kero to try and loosen them up a bit. Anyone know much about them and what they are supposed to be like? Edited October 18, 2008 by 320guy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 18, 2008 Ill be running a getrag 240 at first, then I will change it somthing stronger if it self destructs. I was planning on running a Holset HX35, and probally will still run one if I can find one, otherwise I will start looking at somthing else. Ill be running a Link ECU, pretty much because they're alot of tuners around in NZ for them and alot of support if anything goes wrong with it. What brake booster are you using? Edit: Oh and while ive got the engine apart some of the lifters seem to be jammed, well most of them actually. Some of them press in pretty easily, some press in easily but not as far as others, and some dont budge at all, though you can still spin the inside part of them around. Ive got them soaking in some kero to try and loosen them up a bit. Anyone know much about them and what they are supposed to be like? Why a holset? Be greater support for garret etc here in NZ im sure? Thats the way bro go Link. Im running a Link G3 definitely the way to go. Running a VW MKII Brake booster for clearance, even with this brake booster it still had clearance issues. I've got a spare set of lifters if your having trouble not sure on their condition though. How far through are you on your M50 Conversion? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
320guy 0 Report post Posted October 18, 2008 Holsets are cheap if you can find them, and perform quite well Ive got a booster out of a E32 735, supposedly the same as a 325ix booster (same part numbers) it should bolt right up, just hopefully it clears. You dont happen to know the diameter of your booster do you? At the moment im collecting parts and freshening the engine up, I think all I need now is E36 engine mounts, coolant hoses and a clutch kit to get the engine in the car and going. Engine is currently stripped apart, the rings were shot so I will replace those, the bearings are in mint condition (no marks at all on them, except a few tiny ones on a 1 or 2), and I will be getting the head crack tested and checked for flatness next month or so and then sticking the engine back togethor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tibbs.james 1 Report post Posted October 18, 2008 (edited) Even mint bearings, it would be a good idea to put new ones in away! so much easier to do it now than running a main later on ! It would be a real shame to have to pull the block apart later on since its already been done ! ( however unlikely !! edit : sorry to hijack Edited October 18, 2008 by Jimmy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 19, 2008 Yea man while you got it apart you may as well do ya bearings save the hassle later. If you can do it yourself it shouldnt cost you to much. Haha all good Jimmy not a problem. I read somewhere that the Factory E36 ECU is good for 19psi!! So should make the car driveable to get the exhaust done and out to get my Link tuned Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
320guy 0 Report post Posted October 19, 2008 (edited) Yeah bearing and rings are on the list of things to do to it before it goes in. Does anyone know much about the hydraulic lifters? Some seem to be jammed completely solid, others I can compress easily with my fingers, some not so easily, and some compress more than others... Are the ones I can compress collapsed? Or are the ones I cant compress jammed? Edited October 19, 2008 by 320guy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 20, 2008 Good man. Cant say I know too much about them man have you priced up new ones? I think repco and Segedins do lifters aye. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted December 16, 2008 UPDATE! Well kinda got a lil more done tonight. Finally the Turbo and Wastegate are mounted. Will get photos of the manifold when its all sealed up and finished ... crazy angle on the turbo im suprised it all fits under there... heres how its all sitting in the engine bay: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 16, 2008 I'm not trying to be negative here..but.. from the photos, it looks like you might have clearance issues with engine movement. How are you going to protect the bonnet from turbo heat ?? They do get friggen hot Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30plz 1 Report post Posted December 17, 2008 Cut a hole in the bonnet and mount it higher. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted December 17, 2008 So little room... But still f**king cool Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted December 17, 2008 Glenn.. no worries any constructive criticism welcome Your right there is very little room here. Everything clears the bonnet no problem and I have allowed for 30-40mm sideways movement which i believe should be plenty. As far as heat goes, I have a very good acess of automotive parts at work so will most likely purchase some heat sheets through ACL. Also a turbo beanie will be an idea too. Lol James so many people wanted me to cut a hole in the bonnet and have it showing but naaaa lol... Cheers ED1RTY Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted December 17, 2008 Could also try a turbo damper kit if you could modify one to accept your setup Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted December 17, 2008 is the oil/bearing system gonna be ok with the turbo on an angle like that? From memory anything more than 15 degrees is getting a bit suss. manufacturer should have a max spec for that Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
323e30 0 Report post Posted December 17, 2008 What are you doing to the motor Compression wise? are you using a copper gasket or have you changed the pistons etc? Ive been thinking of doing this for a long time but have never really decided what to do to lower compression. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted December 17, 2008 Am thinking of getting a mls gasket, probably a wise idea even though the motor is good for 300hp at the flywheel on stock headgaket and injectors. I'd still be at peace of mind with knowing the headgasket is fresh and the head been plained etc... oh and also ARP headstuds is a good idea also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted December 17, 2008 Could also try a turbo damper kit if you could modify one to accept your setup Oh ok what is a turbo damper kit? is the oil/bearing system gonna be ok with the turbo on an angle like that? From memory anything more than 15 degrees is getting a bit suss. manufacturer should have a max spec for that Crap didnt realise that.... I will definitely look into that more cheers Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted December 17, 2008 No worries Luke, hopefully it will be alright like that What are you doing to the motor Compression wise? are you using a copper gasket or have you changed the pistons etc? Ive been thinking of doing this for a long time but have never really decided what to do to lower compression. I'd take a look at what other people have done, even 9:1 cr shouldn't cause too many issues on a modern-ish motor like the M50. what is stock c/r? thicker head gaskets etc can muck up cam timing and cause it too be too sluggish off boost. higher cr also requires less boost to make power, just need to make sure you have a good tune as it is easier to cause damage if you get it wrong with high comp and boost. if you wanted to do a nice build with high boost just get new pistons as chances are they'd need replacing anyway once boost got that high that compression was an issue Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites