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19x8.5 stretched tyres

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Hey,

Nope! Sorry car is not to low as super lows are in the back and they still rubbed, and how could it be any diffrent when i had a diffrent set of 19s on the car around 3 weeks ago.

Have talked to Johno and he said it should work out for me.

And no the wheel itself is not touching the guard.

I have heard and read there is alot of people on here that have major problems with cars running to low, but mine is below limit but has be certified on 19x8s

I have no problem with low if its done properly. My statement was " I think the height could be the problem"

Has Johno seen it ???

I was going on the picture. I work on these 14hrs a day 5 days a week. It was an observation from the photo you supplied. I have a certed E36 75mm off the ground and I've got a sh*t load more clearance than you've got. But then I'm running Schnitzers 17 X 8.5 with 225/45/17 tyres.

However I still think its a height & wheel problem. Let Johno have a look

Edited by botanymotorworx

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I have heard and read there is alot of people on here that have major problems with cars running to low, but mine is below limit but has be certified on 19x8s

And please :D lets not go there. Everyones had enough of that crap. I have no problem with low (done safely)

I was just offering constructive criticism (advise)

Cheers

Glenn :P (an old hoon)

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Its not the wheels it is the rubber. Triangle tyres are very bulky and have a funny shape to them.

The rubbing is not to insane.

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Hey Mate, no offence intended. my words originally were a "decent" wheel allignment.

90% of the time, the salesman has more skills than the schoolkid doin' the allignment.

There are some really talented allignment guys out there , that can sort out your problems when you go outside manufacturers specs [ lowering , widening etc ]

try and use one of these guys.

my comments about race cars, is because 1/2 the idiots out there try and use race car settings on a street car

[ great for creating excess tyre wear ]

I know some decent allignment guys in the Tauranga area only

OK we're friends again, Seriously though, what would you do, would you try another alignment from a reputible guy who knows what he's doing and do you think the camber settings etc are worth looking at, as you metioned earlier, as i said i'm willing try anything to avoid spending a grand on something that i may not need.

Edited by NZPOM

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Its not the wheels it is the rubber. Triangle tyres are very bulky and have a funny shape to them.

The rubbing is not to insane.

Get Johno to have a look and go from there then...Hes our tyre expert

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Are you sure? A lot of negative camber causes camber thrust [ 2 cones driving towards each other ] to counter-act this they use Toe out [ terrible under bracking on rough surfaces ]

Yeah - I'm sure you are right, but I don't have lots of negative camber since its only an old (and not particularly low) 2002. I have about 2 deg and am going to try a little more. That was all I meant by "depends on the car".

It's possible NZPOMs car doesn't have excessive camber and/or incorrect toe.

NZPOM - I reckon you should find someone who can tell you if your car is playing up or if its a sacrifice to make for those wheels/tyres. A standard M3 has wide tyres, not much camber but lots of caster - in my case it doesn't tramline at all. Do you know what your aligment is now?

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There are 2 sorts of camber: Static camber= when the venicle is stationary [ eg:allignment machine ]

and dynamic camber= induced camber [ eg: thru suspension travel ]

have a look at an indycar from the front, the upper wishbones point down in the middle of the car [ not parallel to the lowers ]

They run minimal camber to reduce drag, but under hard braking the geometry induces more negative.

A lowered Mac/strut, or even worse , a semi trailing arm [ E30 ] that has been lowered does the same.

all suspension has a "operating range" that the geometry is working within. when a car is lowered, it is at the end of this operating range so a bit of suspension movement can aggravate the problem.

All this is academic, I am assuming NZ Pom's suspension is in good condition.

My E36 was bad for tramlining because the Wheel allignment was set up for M spec [ sport settings ], I got my allignment guy to run less negative because I'm running 225's [ it cured the problem ]

I don't need race car settings in my daily driver. [ I drive near the speed limit, not the rev limit Haha!]

E36's get most of their bump steer in the rear suspension, so if your allignment guy wont do the rear, go elsewhere.

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Well in the end Johno is the right person to talk to about tyre problems, thanks mate! it all worked out well today.

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So what was the resolution ????

I would have asked "what was the patch" :P ...just being cheeky

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The tyres were to wide, and 215s were perfect i will take some photos to show.

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There you go, much more room has been made now.

post-2991-1210223212_thumb.jpg

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What the hell are you on about, the offset is 38. Fine for a bmw e36.

It will just be the photo, there is a lot of space between the alloy and the guard.

Im a noob, I don't talk gibberish when it comes to cars

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hes just saying your going to have suspension geometery problems with this solution. The car will react in strange ways under speed/load/hard cornering.

It will be fine for every day driving however just expect some premature wear on the tires.

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Thanks to all who have offered advice on my tram lineing problem, i think its worth my while looking at alignment including rear, and talking to someone a bit more knowledgable than the last guy regarding camber/castor

Any suggestions for the ChCh area

PS i'll post to let you know the outcome.

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What the hell are you on about, the offset is 38. Fine for a bmw e36.

It will just be the photo, there is a lot of space between the alloy and the guard.

Im a noob, I don't talk gibberish when it comes to cars

When you come in here asking questions and asking for help, you should listen. There are plenty of people in here willing to help you. If you want the "right" answers, be prepared for a little criticism, with out taking it to heart.

You have your "fix" for the tyres rubbing

However your set up is all wrong for safe handling.

Yes, you are a Noob (as you put it) and you are getting the correct answers from people in here. Listen to them & learn

(1) Your car is too low ( even though it may be certed ) being that low you have introduced camber and geometry problems (handling) especially at speed and cornering. Your new 215 tyres wont last that long at all either.

(2) The off set is wrong (end of story) it might fit, but it is wrong

(3) The tyre size is wrong for that size wheel, you have a "fix" so you can drive it, however it is wrong.

This is constructive criticism, you asked a question, you were given the "right" answers, you have your "fix" for the rubbing, but unfortunatley your set up is all WRONG for the car.

End of "gibberish" lesson

Glenn

Edited by botanymotorworx

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Thanks to all who have offered advice on my tram lineing problem, i think its worth my while looking at alignment including rear, and talking to someone a bit more knowledgable than the last guy regarding camber/castor

Any suggestions for the ChCh area

PS i'll post to let you know the outcome.

You may find a change of tyre helps. Weve had tramlining dissappear completely by changing to a better tyre.

The e36 and 46 (to a lesser degree) seem to be sensitive to tyre choice.

Khumo(sp) are shocking, even the better ones. Toyo T1r is reasonable, Falkens are the best weve found. The right size is important!

On an 8" rim a 235/40 or 225/45 works well.

Always a good idea to check and set youre alighnment.

E... Assuming 17"rims.

Edited by westy

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I'm running 225/45/17 Direzza's on 8" Schnitzers

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Ollie why don't we close this topic - seems to be going on endlessly and it is the same discusion we have had previously in other threads.

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seems to be going on endlessly and it is the same discusion we have had previously in other threads.

Agreed.

Closing as almost every recent post contains personal attacks.

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