Engine Mods+pricing

[User Name 19]

Hi Guys

As some may know i am in the process of getting parts for my project, i am getting quotes from both the states and nz so once i done this ill let you guys know just in case anyone is looking

at the moment ive found Injectors are cheapest from the states without a doubt, unless anyone knows anywhere in nz cheap

pricing so far all from US converted to NZ $ $1200-1700 JE forged pistons, 2000 Forged conrods, $272 MLS Head Gasket .70, $272 Head stud set, $207 Main stud set

Fuel pump $200-500 depending on type

if anyone has NZ prices can they let me knowor places to go just waiting on a few email replys

ive decided maybe to do my internals before putting a turbo on figure i can have more fun if the internals are all new.

has anyone had there valves etc done if so can you let me know if its worth it

CHeers

i will be updating this post as i get the info

[CamB 48]

Hi Guys

As some may know i am in the process of getting parts for my project, i am getting quotes from both the states and nz so once i done this ill let you guys know just in case anyone is looking

It might pay to list exactly what you goals etc are - at a guess, you are building up an M30 for boost, but plan to run it without boost for now. Are you going to run an aftermarket computer initially? Or just the factory one? What are your horsepower goals?

If I've guessed correctly above, my thoughts are:

1) the injectors on the motor are probably fine until you get a turbo, at which point you could look at second-hand ones here (I'd imagine a set of 6x 450cc Evo/S15/etc injectors would support HEAPS of power)

2) I'm not sure you need aftermarket conrods - the standard ones are supposedly ok out toward 100hp/cylinder and you are better to spend that money on a good tune

3) Your standard fuel pump might be ok for now too - you only need a new fuel pump with the turbo

I have no idea on the cost to recon your head (ok I have a figure in mind but it could be totally wrong, plus it depends on the amount of work you need and/or choose to have).

You really should talk to topcat about what he did, or damo about what he's doing. They've both got M30 turbo experience.

Cam

[User Name 19]

Hi Guys

Yea i have sorced a m30B35 from Brent which should be getting soon,

i will be looking initaly arround the 450-600hp mark once the turbo is on but i figure get my engine built for more than 500hp i should be able to have some fun

Yea looking at link G3 for the ecu - so ethier ill get my ECU or internals done this time round with my cash and wait another few months to do the rest of it

ive had a talk with topcat about what he used and i could get the sorta power i want without to many mods but i want my engine to be able to compare to my wildest dreams, big $$$ but i think itl worth it in the long run

Im sure ill be posting it all up once it gets going only got a wof till september and my 2.8 is bust cause found water in the cylinders, but if i can get that fixed cheap ill use that to drive round in a rebuild the engine i am getting from brent

Any help as i said would be great OR any sources for parts in nz would be appreciated

Cheers

[hybrid 1039]

Nice work! .. you are certainly doing it the right way

[User Name 19]

More prices all around the same convert from usd to nz

from Vac motors

high performance VAC valves are +1 over sized $659

VAC valve springs. They are a superior dual spring setup $443

Arrow Precision con rods they include ARP rod bolts $2604

VAC/ CP Pistons excel at turbo applications. In standard bore size @ 8.5:1 CR $1972

Let you know once i got more info

and how the project goes over time

[Mike 1]

More prices all around the same convert from usd to nz

from Vac motors

high performance VAC valves are +1 over sized $659

VAC valve springs. They are a superior dual spring setup $443

Arrow Precision con rods they include ARP rod bolts $2604

VAC/ CP Pistons excel at turbo applications. In standard bore size @ 8.5:1 CR $1972

Let you know once i got more info

and how the project goes over time

I agree with camB on the aftermarket conrods, that is alot of money and I dont think they're really needed unless you're doing a mental build.

I wouldn't go any lower than 8.5:1 c/r either. M10/M30 dont seem to have problems with detonation that bad, and my thicker HG reduced off-boost performance quite noticabley.

Have you considered o-ringing the block instead of an MLS? mines been fine but there have been problems with them leaking reported.

what cam are you going to be running? 600hp is alot and will require upwards of 25psi or more to get there on the stock cam. any ideas for a turbo yet?

Edited June 9, 2008 by Mike

[325_driver 422]

good to see that manual box of mine is being put to good use !!

[User Name 19]

Hay Guys

Turbo is still a few months away bt was going to be looking at a beast like T70 or TD06 or Garret GT40 something along the lines of supporting 800hp applications and beasty as this is going to be my priceless German Tank

Tru havnt had a look into doing the o-rings as well, was going to get gapless top rings for the pistons when i get them.

with the conrods kinda want to change them seen im doing the rest, and dont want to screw my engine if the stock ones give out, lolz

Tru never head about the MLS gaskets leaking, might look into that cheers,

other than that now cam thats something im going to need help with i have no clue when it comes to cam's so any help would be appreciated

Thanks 325 that manual will come to good use going to put it in the 2.8l as a run around to i complete the 3.5l build

just about got last parts but think courier companys dont like me lolz

[topcat 11]

I think you'll be better off in the short term talking to a performance engine builder.

600HP is not going to be an easy exercise without some serious leg work.

not to put a wet blanket on your day,but the standard head flow on a e34 3.5 is somewhere between(so i've been told)

180-190 cfm at 28" of water.a sorted head with a lot of work done will flow 230+.

HP=amount of air being 'pumped' through the chambers.so will need to calculate how much air is being flowed at what RPM and what boost level.

the simple theory of 'just crank the boost' will work in the short term.but hydrodynamics will catch up to you sooner or later.

conrods will add a difference,am looking into it myself,but are the rods setup for boost or a free reving NA setup?

adding oils squirters,to cool the pistons?highly recommened

Get the block crack tested before doing anything to it.saves a bucket load of headace.

marty

[Mike 1]

you'd either do the o-rings or MLS, most MLS makers wont recommend you do both.

2 schools of thought on cams, some say stock is best as it has limited overlap, however this means you have to make a lot of boost to make power as it isn't exactly great for flow. will give you better response down low depending on your turbo but can run out off puff at higher rpm

Other idea is that you make the whole lot flow as good as you can ie hotter cam, head work, quality tubular manifold, and a large turbo, particularly the exhaust housing. Whole idea is to reduce exhaust backpressure as much as possible. will be a bit of a slug until the cam comes on and then its away.

Given that your after that much hp i'd reckon you have much better results going with a larger cam, turbo etc. the more power you can make off boost the easier it is to make it when you are boosting. ie if you made 200hp N/A then put 15psi through it you'll be at roughly 400hp, if you can increase N/A outout to 250hp then at 15psi you'd be at roughly 500hp.

there is a huge difference in the power band though, thats why you need to suss out what you want to use the car for and what sort of power delivery you need.

I might have gotten a few points wrong there as i'm no expert but thats the general idea.

lastly, got a manifold lined up yet? given the money your spending i'd be dissapointed with anything less than a full Stainless tubular item

Edited June 10, 2008 by Mike

[hybrid 1039]

Hmmmm Stock rods have reported to have let go on the higher side of the rev band. drop forged will at least give you some confidence when your looking around 600-800bhp. And yes .. when you think about it 2k+ is nothing if it means you have that security than buying a new block and pistons / crank.

Speaking of which .. the crank strength is something you also will want to think about.

A stainless manifold will be a bad idea on something as heavy as a gt40/42r. They look pretty .. but crack after solid use. Again this all depends on how its built, but people using top mount turbos dont use stainless for this reason.

Using pyrimid rings or o-ringing the block or head is highly recommended for this power range. Realistcially things change when you get up around this power range . . look to the swedes for ideas.

www.zatzy.com is where they all hang ..

[topcat 11]

your on the right track Mike,Schrik 284 do OK inthe turbo setup.keeping the overlap angle no less the 112 degree range,but now were speaking specialist language and i didnt pass school C english,so i'll leave that there.

I do know that I'm in the process of making my head flow better also for the same sort of story.

wont be making 600HP claims for now,but 500 shouldnt be a drama.

just experimenting with exhaust valves etc,as this shows to be the choking point rather then the intake-in turbo setups mind!!.

the exhaust valve is now 3.5mm bigger then standard B35,and port itelf is now bigger then the standard valve.

trying to find a flow bench at this point,to show where our mods are heading.

any one knows of a shop that does this work?

have you checked 666fabrication.com? Jon does very good work.the guys in the states have nothing but good feedback from his products.pricey,but if your willing to pay i dnt think you'll be disappointed.

I will be going a different route,only cause i'm a dutch arab,and have deep pockets/short arms syndrome

marty

[User Name 19]

Thanks guys you are all being alot of help with info im sure this will be a great but lengthy build so think ill get the 2.8l back up and running while im building the new engine

it would make it easier if i was in auks i could get some help cause being down her in welly its hard to find places that can do all this for me without having to lug the engine all over the place lolz

so if anyone knows contacts down this end of the island can you let me know

Um hoping with intake and exhaust ill be getting custom made as a perky from one of my mates, so material plus abit extra on top

Yea I think i will go talk to someone at least with the engine not in the car i can get all the parts modified as need be and tested

all the parts will be for a turbo setup in the long run well i prob wont run it much or not at all to its complete so should be all good

thanks again guys

im going to speak to a few nz places about parts so hopefully i can get it sorted

Marty Let me know how your modding goes, always keen to get help

[mr E34 11]

Why would you want 600 odd HP?? Alpina bi-turbo had 360bhp/550nm and produced 0-100k's in approx 5 sec.

The strain on all the running gear would be immense, just my 2 cents dude.Mr conservative.

[hybrid 1039]

for these reasons ..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56RzV6ALdzY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTr5SoJ8Hlw...feature=related

[tire 10]

This sh!t is bananas, b-a-n-a-n-a-s hahah fitting!

[mr E34 11]

Power without control, he who burns twice as bright lives half as long.

The reason the race E30 M3 was so successful because it had perfect control with 350BHP.I'm obviously too old in the pwr stakes.

Edited June 10, 2008 by mr E34

[BM WORLD 1264]

you guys (top cat and KYM0 going to get some of those red tyres to make some red smoke .

[User Name 19]

Yee have little faith and so what if you dont have mass control, these cars were built as tanks to show those jap cars who's boss

and alot of sideway action never hurt anyone to much, and if all goes to plan it will be a w.e and track car so dont really have to worry to much

Red tyres that sounds fun, but i think ill rip my orginal michelin tyres that came orginal on the car to sreads first.

Still alwhile away as the engine needs to get some of this work done to it, but everyone has been very helpfull, when the whole thing is completed it will be ART

lolz - im going to take to a head reconditioner about increasing the flow on my head when i take the 2.8l head to get checked out next week, so ill let you know what they say

Chers

[topcat 11]

Power without control, he who burns twice as bright lives half as long.

The reason the race E30 M3 was so successful because it had perfect control with 350BHP.I'm obviously too old in the pwr stakes.

dont know about being too old.400 hp in the e28 was good a good fit.and i rarely had that number

pushing the wheels.(especially when coming out of corners).a fat mid range was where i had my fun and the

car handled the numbers quite easily,alittle over balance

but overal,no the e28 chassis doesnt handle more the 350.

the e28 is not a 'german tank'.its still a '70s design.if you want a tank, use a W series Merc,got a tidy body that needs a new heart

this is why my next project is going into a e34,stiffer body,and a little more weight,more wheel size options,

more upgrade parts in general

and maybe its because I'm not 18 anymore,and have the income to support my hobbies

but who's keeping count, marty

[topcat 11]

you guys (top cat and KYM0 going to get some of those red tyres to make some red smoke .

I could do with a sponser.you got the new "BMW HAVEN" parts stickers yet??

i'll let you chose the panel where its going to stick-as long as its in the glovebox

[mr E34 11]

dont know about being too old.400 hp in the e28 was good a good fit.and i rarely had that number

pushing the wheels.(especially when coming out of corners).a fat mid range was where i had my fun and the

car handled the numbers quite easily,alittle over balance

but overal,no the e28 chassis doesnt handle more the 350.

the e28 is not a 'german tank'.its still a '70s design.if you want a tank, use a W series Merc,got a tidy body that needs a new heart

this is why my next project is going into a e34,stiffer body,and a little more weight,more wheel size options,

more upgrade parts in general

and maybe its because I'm not 18 anymore,and have the income to support my hobbies

but who's keeping count, marty

Good on you Marty, you can't take it with you when your gone!Look forward to seeing a few of these worked cars.

[User Name 19]

Hay Guys

Im still doing pricing even in nz its all coming in about the same sort of price for everything, ive seen a place in the states that will increase flow on a cylinder head by 18% plus a few mods

so im going to a engine reconditioner next week with my 2.8 head to get checked for cracks and have a talk about what sorta price im looking for at refirbing the head, which should be good

thanks guys for offers for 2.8 head ill be in contact if they want to much to fix my current one, stil got my issue of my drivetrain gota get it modded to fit the manual but thats cool something ill have to get done.

Can i ask has anyone put big brakekits on there bmw if so what sorta price did it cost, just so i have a rough idea

cheers

[mr E34 11]

Have you checked out Ireland Engineering in the States, have a good range of BMW parts, kits etc.