Gus 5 Report post Posted May 24, 2006 i may save attempted suicide with this one make sure both the threaded receivers on the pedal boxes are the same...if they are not swap them over...might save you an hour or two on top of having to take the pedal box out again sure is oddball, but it cant just be the one also, make sure you dont get the clutch line mixed up and throw away all your old "brake lines". also, when wiring the inhibitor switch, its usually the two green/black that came from the plug to the auto box, and the non blue/white one coming off the reverse light plug (i think its green/white or green/yellow). at least that is what it is on a FL 325...may be different across models Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted May 24, 2006 Who's done one on a car with cruise control? Apart from the microswitch you have to hook up to the clutch pedal, how do you trick the cruise control computer into thinking the car is in gear whilst jumpering the auto position cables to make the car think it is in neutral/park so it will start? I havn't tried to do it yet and I am sure it is easy, but if someone has done it already it will save me the hassle of figuring it out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bumpstop325 0 Report post Posted May 24, 2006 READ This should help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted May 24, 2006 Yeah - I've seen that - an on/off switch for my cruise control to bypass the neutral switch and create an immobilser of sorts is an inelegant solution. I want it to be as-factory if possible. Thanks anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nz320i 0 Report post Posted May 24, 2006 (edited) Do it ya self!! honestly!! Go buy 4 axle stands from repco first thing tomorrow, then when your home from work drop the exhaust off and driveshaft off, and that should get ya going, from there just dont turn back and ask for advice on the forum.. also go to BNT and buy a E Torx set for $30 like mine will be all ya need for getting the auto out. Holla Edited May 24, 2006 by nz320i Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bumpstop325 0 Report post Posted May 24, 2006 (edited) Yeah - I've seen that - an on/off switch for my cruise control to bypass the neutral switch and create an immobilser of sorts is an inelegant solution. I want it to be as-factory if possible. Thanks anyway. WTF??? Im not feeling you on this?how do you trick the cruise control computer into thinking the car is in gear whilst jumpering the auto position cables to make the car think it is in neutral/park so it will start? You asked. Edited May 24, 2006 by bumpstop325 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted May 24, 2006 If you READ that page, the author found that to start the car the neutral wire had to be jumpered, but for cruise control to work the circuit had to be broken so the cruise control computer thought the car was in gear. This would mean installing a switch on the "neutral/park" circuit to do this to allow the car to start, then flick the switch to allow cruise control to work, then flick back once stopped to restart the car - in other words a total f**king disaster. In a manual vehicle, presumably the "neutral/park" circuit is jumpered or disabled within the ecu or ecu harness and the cruise control computer left to it's own devices. Don't worry about it - i'll figure it out and do a write-up - I just thought someone may ahve done it already - obviously not. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver Fox 43 Report post Posted July 27, 2006 OK I've got my manual box in and have stripped the auto loom from the connection under the steering col which comes from the ecu I think, 3 wires, gr/bk, violet and brown, and 2 wires going back to passengers side, gr/bk and brown. I've joined the 2 connectors at the gearstick and have the reversing lights working. Car won't start, I need to bypass the auto inhibitor, can I do it by shorting wires I have exposed, or have I stuffed it and need to replace the auto loom for some reason. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted July 27, 2006 link Go to this topic. I put some pics up and a description of what you need to do to bypass the loom, or you can remove it completely like I normally do. Give me a yell if you need more info. PS I can't use my Topless profile at the moment as there is something wrong with it. Andrew is working on the problem so reply to this profile. Will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted July 27, 2006 it should be two of the wires you stripped..i cant remember the exact colours + they prob different to you...look at the bentley manual, it should tell you which wires to connect, look under "inhibitor switch". else just trial and error (*i wont guarantee it wont do anything bad!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver Fox 43 Report post Posted July 27, 2006 (edited) tried that Will, no go. Reconnected auto, car started, wires at auto selector are as follows. From selector light a gr/y, joined with a gr/y from the selector, and going to fuses in engine bay, and a bl/w, going from selector to same fuses. Also from selector a gr/bk splits, one goes to a yellow relay behind the glovebox, the other to motronic ecu. From the selector light, a brown going to the same relay behind glovebox. Other 2 wires are another brown, and a violet from the auto box and going to the ecu as well. What do I do with all of them? Edited July 27, 2006 by Silver Fox Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver Fox 43 Report post Posted July 27, 2006 I've solved the dilema, just had to short the green/yellow from the gearbox (reversing lights) across to the green/black from the selector (which went to the relay behind glovebox, did the connection behind the glovebox as both wires are there) Turned key and off I go. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites