bravo 35 Report post Posted March 9, 2009 was your aircon still even working? Yes, but the belt had started to squeal so I pulled it off about 4 months ago, and it wasn't all that good. Was evident the reason why when we went to remove the gas and only a wee puff was left. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SIR E30 68 Report post Posted March 10, 2009 Correct I notice nobody has voted over 200 beers yet I did.. but that was when I thought he had for some strange reason decided to go M50.. Even though I knew he had bought an M20. But I now reduce my count to 75 beers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Ari Gold Report post Posted March 10, 2009 I reduced also. Good idea on the beerometer graeme, I'm going to run one for my winter project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_BRS_ 209 Report post Posted March 10, 2009 wooo this is guna be SIIICCCK! envy haha my beer guesstimate is 92! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 Minor Updates: Day 3, Beers 1 & 2 Removed gearbox and clutch, test fitted IC, drank 2 beers. Current Beer Tally: 16 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 Im gona say 88 beers. Looking good as bravo, will go like the clappers. On a side note, Speights Summit FTW Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 Day 4, Beers 1 - 3 Got lots of parts etc organised, cleaned engine bay, gearbox etc, drank 3 beers... mmmm shiny! Current Beer Tally: 19 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 Good to see some Heinys up there Graham Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
QuickSilver 0 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 I'm glad to see you have the obligatory insulation tape on the water level sensor plug. Mines securely taped up too Where are you going to mount the SC? Side/front/top? Keep DRINKING! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 e36 rack swap while the engines out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) I'm glad to see you have the obligatory insulation tape on the water level sensor plug. Mines securely taped up too Where are you going to mount the SC? Side/front/top? Keep DRINKING! Heatshrink - not insulation tape. It's mounted where the AC comp usually sits. So I need to have a heat sheild made up as the air lines go right by the exhaust manifold. I was looking at it last night, and it was starting to look difficult, so I asked my old man if he had any ideas, and he suggested I saddle it to the air lines themselves - perfect! Would have been better to have it on the other side, but seeing as all the custom pipework and brackets are already made, I'm not about to start changing it too much. Other wise I may as well have just started from scratch. I am going to attempt to run my oil cooler though. There is a little bit of fiddling to get it to fit with the IC and also get the filter mount to clear the SC, but I'm hoping it'll work out. Not that impressed with the amount of airflow I'm going to get over the IC. The lower front bit of the frame is behind it, and the bumper is in front of the upper 1/3. Will be better than nothing, but much lower and it'll collect the ground. Might be something to change in the furture. Will still be better than no IC. Edited March 11, 2009 by bravo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 e36 rack swap while the engines out? Hadn't thought of that. Remind me of what's involved - is it a straight swap? What gains? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 e36 rack has a smaller lock to lock Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) Hah, yes, I was hoping for a specific comparison between number of turns. Also, which model e36 is best? do the fittings from the e30 pump fit? what else is involved with the install. If its bolt up, wheel alignment and go, then I'll look into it as I've had a few noises from this rack, and I beleive its the rack, not the pump, so a replacement isn't such a silly idea. Edited March 11, 2009 by bravo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30plz 1 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) Ta. Involves shortening the steering linkage - which I can't easily do. Their one has a joint you can space out to do it. Otherwise seems as though you can do it fairly easily - just a couple of spacers, and use e36 lines. Anyone know about the linkage problem? Edited March 11, 2009 by bravo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 That link that guy above posted covers lhd, I believe the process for rhd is different, easier (-could be talking out arse). I know the lines have to be bent to fit with rhd and often break in the process. I think most ppl use the e30 pump? I think the stock e30 rack is 4.1 LtL, stock e36 3.7. e36 m3 and z3 less than that again - off the top of my head. Couple a links click e3024v will have a bit of good info as its a uk site (rhd) Download the related file here click Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Apex 693 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 Z3 looks the go. If you do it post a how to, im sure a lot of us would be keen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) It's mounted where the AC comp usually sits. So I need to have a heat sheild made up as the air lines go right by the exhaust manifold. I was looking at it last night, and it was starting to look difficult, so I asked my old man if he had any ideas, and he suggested I saddle it to the air lines themselves - perfect! Personaly I wouldnt do that if there was another way Graham, the shield will absorb heat and transfer it into the hose. Especially if it is alluminium. Its a shame its all been built on the exhaust side. Not realy ideal having the SC so close to an exhaust system.... mind you the heat transfer might be quite minimal though. If the hoses are straight, what about running them through some alloy tube so the hose doesnt touch the tube itself ? Any pictures of the SC on the motor ?? Edited March 11, 2009 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) I know its not ideal, but it was done that way so as to make plumbing the SC easy, and to avoid moving the power steer pump. I would have tried to put it on the other side, but this is definitely the easier option, and it does work. The idea behind the heat shield is to improve the current design. I don't want to re-invent the wheel as otherwise I may as well have started from scratch rather than buying a converted motor. If I ever decide to go to a different charger, that would be the time to try other options out. I was thinking of maybe rubber insulator between the saddle and the pipe?? Best pic I have right now. There's more room between the manifold and the RH pipe than the pic shows. Edited March 11, 2009 by bravo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) I've also thought about heat wrapping the manifold - difficult on a factory one though! What about heat-wrapping the intake pipes??? Surely the stuff must work that way round too?? While on the subject - what are the two 12mm bolts on the top of the factory manifold for? Edited March 11, 2009 by bravo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Apex 693 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 That intercooler will be more that sufficient mate, go to big with the pipes or cooler and you loose responsiveness and the charger ends up working too hard. I don’t think heat will be a problem either, my old system ran the S/C down pipe write next to the exhaust manifold. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 I've also thought about heat wrapping the manifold - difficult on a factory one though! What about heat-wrapping the intake pipes??? Surely the stuff must work that way round too?? While on the subject - what are the two 12mm bolts on the top of the factory manifold for? Temperature probes and some cars had steel heat shields held on by them..only seen 1 like that though Heat wrap could be a go.. hard to do as you say...especially in place Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 11, 2009 I've decided to heat wrap the IC piping. Been doing some research - should be fairly effective. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted March 12, 2009 yup, it works, stops heat-soak and keeps cold air cold. Mate has a 88' 3 litre turbo supra running 200KW, same situation, heat wrap on exhaust side is way to complicated. Did the cooler piping and it was FTW. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
