Anyone with an e30 with LVV cert - Glen? etc

[bravo 35]

Been told I need one.

I'm thinking a 360° loop of steel welded to a flat piece across the bottom of the trans tunnel?

Been told 50x5 MSF anf M10 G8.8 bolts through floor with washers.

How many bolts? 2? 4?

How far either side of trans tunnel?

Centre bearing should function as safety loop should front universal go, and rear subframe if rear should go. So this is just in case my guibo explodes lol. Overkill I know for this amount of power, but rules are rules.

Thanks

[*Glenn* 854]

I'm not sure what the specs are Graham.. I didnt have to do one. However I'm thinking of doing one for safety

[bravo 35]

I was actually meaning Glen with the turboed e30, but thanks for your input anyway.

I've been talking to the certifier. he says that as long as it's not likely to come through the floor, then 360 is not required, and that single bolts either side are enough, and just enough either side to allow strong bolting through.

Just thought someone else might have done something nice and tidy.

[*Glenn* 854]

Does the certifier think that your little rocket is going to produce 500 RWHP ???. Sometimes I do think these guys go a little bit over board. However its a good safety mod though.

[bravo 35]

Hah exactly. I suspect if I hadnt' asked he would have let it go. He said I could argue that the increase isn't significant thus doesn't need it, but that the brake test threshold is 20% more, so I should do it. Since I plan to improve things another 10-20% over the next little while I thought it prudent to do it. (I want 150rwkw as it's such a nice number, currently should be 134rwkw according to dyno)

Plus I am able to employ the services of a very friendly engineer to do all my work for beers. Sometimes I need to watch him as this kind of payment makes him want to cut corners, but as long as I do this I get a good job for pittance.

So in that regard there's no reason why I shouldn't do it.

Can't wait for the work day to finish so I can bolt a few things up and go for a cane.

[*Glenn* 854]

If your gearbox has a geebo coupling, only the front of the rear half of the driveshaft needs to be encaptured so that if the UJ fails and the drive shaft dismembers itself, it won't catipult you into the air or into oncoming traffic, thats my understanding from talking to some of my racing freinds. However...I could be wrong

[bravo 35]

If the Rear UJ fails = no prob, shaft would drag, and the rear subframe is a loop anyway.

If the front UJ fails, the rear half of the UJ is attached to the shaft that goes through the centre bearing (another loop) and the front half of the shaft will just bonce around inside the area with the heat sheilding until you let off the throttle and select neutral.

If the guibo fails, then you need a safety loop there. Although I think its all overkill.

[*Glenn* 854]

If the Rear UJ fails = no prob, shaft would drag, and the rear subframe is a loop anyway.

If the front UJ fails, the rear half of the UJ is attached to the shaft that goes through the centre bearing (another loop) and the front half of the shaft will just bonce around inside the area with the heat sheilding until you let off the throttle and select neutral.

If the guibo fails, then you need a safety loop there. Although I think its all overkill.

Graham..recheck your driveshaft. The front universal on the rear half is behind the centre hangar mount. Thats where I would be concerned. A geebo would give you heaps of notice before it completely failed

[bravo 35]

Not on mine. I have total 2x u-joints. 1 on rear of rear half. 1 on rear of front half. Hanger bearing pushes on to front half. Rear half slides onto spline of front half.

Like this one:

Which is why it's so important to get the two halves phased right as it is possible to have the u-joints out of phase.

Not like this one where phasing of u-joints is fixed as they are both on the same part of the shaft as you describe.:

or this one lol:

[*Glenn* 854]

Correct... I dont have an E30 in the workshop. I was looking at an E36 one and presumed (bad word) You are right...just the geebo end need encapturing

[Madhatter 0]

I was actually meaning Glen with the turboed e30, but thanks for your input anyway.

I've been talking to the certifier. he says that as long as it's not likely to come through the floor, then 360 is not required, and that single bolts either side are enough, and just enough either side to allow strong bolting through.

Just thought someone else might have done something nice and tidy.

It can collapse and come appart, but ive also seen more than one occaision where the shaft has twisted and broken, only to come screaming through the floorpan, cutting a hole through it in the process. Worst one ive seen was a turbocharged 5 series, cut right through just behind the front seats and wrecked the car in the process (was scrap after that).

[E30-323ti 66]

Mine doesn't have one sorry.

It seems to be a recent thing that they are stipulating them, mine was cert'd in '03 and wasn't told to put one in back then.

[drifty325i 0]

I think they changed the rules recently (just before my cert) I had to get 2x 360 drive shaft hoops on mine, ill see if i can get a photo next time im out to where the car is

[drifty325i 0]

In saying that your using a factory getrag? I only had to get mine done because we modified the driveshaft to suit the toyota box.

When i converted mine from auto to manual a few years back I didnt need to even cert it

[hybrid 1043]

Dear Bravo,

Take this to said LVV Certifier and say "Im sure my setup will be sweet"

/end of thread

[320guy 0]

The guy you got your SC kit off just got his car certed with new engine and didnt have to get a hoop.

Edit: Not saying you dont need it, I guess it depends on the certified, my mate had to get a hoop for his escort.

Edited March 26, 2009 by 320guy

[bravo 35]

Yeah mate, I here ya! Kerry also knows the certifier well if he used the guy I think he did.

On the one hand if I hadn't asked he may not have made me, on the other I didn't want to make any assumptions.

Like I said its no real biggie. The biggest piss off is going to be tracking down a thin combi spanner to remove the front seats and lifting the carpet to bolt it in.

[bravo 35]

lol @ Josh.

[320guy 0]

I have pulled out my seats a few times with just a set of sockets.... Or do you have aftermarket seats?

[Forrest 35]

I have pulled out my seats a few times with just a set of sockets.... Or do you have aftermarket seats?

+1 I just use sockets with the angle of the seat changed with the handle, either up or down depending on which side I need to unbolt

[huff3r 347]

+1 I just use sockets with the angle of the seat changed with the handle, either up or down depending on which side I need to unbolt

+2 It was quite easy on my car, just pull the levers til there's clearance

[|ncary 0]

Pictures for anybody who is like 'WTF R DEY TALKIN ABOT?'

[bravo 35]

Thanks Incary. That'll help.

As far as the seat goes - my sport seats (BMW) rails at the rear are shaped in such a way that you cannot get a socket on the nut. Believe me if it were that easy I'd do it - as you can possibly tell from my build thread I'm not incapable. Apart from this welding, I have done everything myself.

Edited March 26, 2009 by bravo