Peugeot 205 GTi MI16

[Nobimmer 694]

I can pop it round when your next home. It's a 2 minute job. Touch it, you know you want to.

[pureboiracer 0]

tbh ive never really looked at this before. but i must say not bad for a french fry

[DRTDVL 0]

Thanks man...

[DRTDVL 0]

Right update time:

Have started to get a few things sorted:

- Sump: Have dropped off to Frans (races a Renault R8 Gordini and does all the engine work for the Renault Alpine A110 in the Targa) to look at getting a full baffle setup installed/made. We did find a problem with how the sump i currently have was done. The extension on the sump is on a slight downward angle so it will retain oil. I'm going to have to look at find a second sump so we can make a new extension that will drain back into the main body of the sump better.

- Suspension: I pulled apart the coilovers on the weekend to look at lowering the car slightly, but have now decided against that as i currently only have about 2 inches of travel at the currently ride height in the front. We have also swapped over the camber/caster plates so the caster adjustment is now in the correct orientation and added a bit more camber to the car. The shocks didn't have dust boots on them, so taking a page out of an old rally book, we used some thick stockings to cover the spring and adjustment threads.

Now for the bad news... Because as anyone who's read this thread will now know it's impossible to work on this damm car without something wrong/bad/broke/F!@KED being found.

- Suspension: The shocks are not Koni adjustable coilovers like i was originally told but are in fact Bilstein shocks, which would be a Whooo but no... The drivers side one is damaged. It has severely reduced ability to return to full extension and the top threaded part (where it goes through to the camber/caster top plate) is bent. So it looks like i'll need to replace that insert later. I'll still drive on it it just means that it will not be handling as well as it could be.

- Rust: Where the tower bracing for the rollcage has been welded to the car, it looks like the rubber sealant for the inner wheel arch was never removed prior to the welding, now it's all bubbled and after pulling and scrapping it off there is a fair bit of rust that will need to be looked at sooner rather than later. There is also some rust coming through below the passengers side headlight and the rear floor plan.

- Oil Cooler: It looks like somethings given it a decent whack and has dented the side of the oil cooler rather decently. I did also notice some oil build-up in the lower corner by where the dent is, i'll now need to get this pressure tested to see if the lovely Mocal Oil Cooler it's now scrap or not.

As usual it's 1 step sideways and 10 steps backwards.

[JiB 0]

Stink about the suspension but at least you found it!

When is the car's next outing?

[DRTDVL 0]

If i can afford to get the car back together, seal up the temp sump, get oil for it, and a wheel alignment... It will be a Autocross on the 11th of July...

Ohhh Creaver - Yes you do need to have a MSNZ licence. It's $60 for that, and if you join the Auckland uni car club it's $10 a year for that. I'm doing the events from the Fiat Car Club - flick me your email addy and i'll send you the entry forms.

if you talk to the organisors i think there is a thing that you don't need a MSNZ license for basic clubsport event if you have done less than 2 events previously. I think you might be able to get day licenses also.

[DRTDVL 0]

Update time i think...

Things broken from the last race...

- Stripped two threads from the block when i was refitting the sump on Saturday

- Wore through the fuel filler neck at the race on Sunday.

Results from the weekend....

Overall = 4th out of 55 (2nd, 3rd, and 4th where covered by 0.14 of a second. Was running 1st overall until the last run)

Class = 1st

The front is too soft at the moment, after a bit of research it looks like 350lb springs would be a good start, as well as upgrading the rear torsion bars to 22mm.

Got the fuel filler neck done today, what a pain in the butt... Had to drop the fuel tank to get the pipe connected, moved a pipe around to try and lift the main pipes up a bit higher into the wheel arch. I'm thinking that the pipe i moved around is just a tank vent.

Covered all the pipes with some tape to help stop stones getting in behind the pipes and pushing them down and into the path of the tyre again.

Also score of the week - a complete 309 gti front end. I'll look at reconditioning the control arms, recondition 1.9 gti hubs, and seam welding and adding some strengthening plates to the spare sub-frame to stiffen it up. Once thats all done i'll look at attaching it to the car along with longer steering arm ends and the middle drive-shaft parts to compensate for the minor increase in width of the front end. I'm thinking it should give me a max camber of around 4.5 degrees which means i can remove camber and add it as needed versus running a max of 2.5 degrees

Priced up the springs and shocks.

I can get Dobi springs for $250 or H&R's for around $400 + GST

The billies rebuilt from $150 each and new billie rear shocks custom valved for $600

I'll then have to seriously look at getting a set of 22 or 23mm torsion bars made or sent over from the uk for the car. that should sort out the suspension for a while at least.

[Guest Simon*]

Good result Heath

2 steps forward, 1 step sideways?

[DRTDVL 0]

2 steps forward - one leg up...

but yeah... 2 forward, 2 backwards really.

[Nobimmer 694]

love the lift!

[DRTDVL 0]

Project don't kill the engine at Hampton Down's is underway and making progress...

[CamB 48]

Nice work!

Is there something I'm not seeing in the pics - how does the crank avoid hitting the windage tray?

[DRTDVL 0]

I'm not actually doing the work Cam, it's one of the guys i know thats taken it on as a challenge... You might know him, Frans - he races a blue Renault Gordini.

The windage tray is actually the strengthening plate for the block which is factory for the car, on the 306 S16 they came factory with a windage plate. In the MI16's there is just an open hole with 2 braces across them.

People buy the windage tray seperately and attach it to the MI16 spacer as a mod... which you can see below (note it's had the 2 factory brakes replaced with a 3 brace setup)

vs

Factory Setup

The one Frans is doing will attach from the bottom.

Edited September 20, 2010 by DRTDVL

[Nobimmer 694]

Hope you are replacing the door hinges on there

[DRTDVL 0]

Nope

[Nobimmer 694]

GC!

[DRTDVL 0]

Ages ago i managed to get a hold of a spare valance for the front bumper as i was going to make a new lip for it, after hunting around i thought that an e30 lip might work ok.

I was kindly given a E30 Pre-Facelift lip free to do what i wanted with... So last night i cut it up and made this:

It still needs a bit of work and to be painted but it's about 90% done.

[Creaver 55]

Cable ties to the rescue!

Looks good, post pics when mounted please

[lbirgel 0]

Like Ian said. go the cable ties!!

[DRTDVL 0]

[Nobimmer 694]

Mongrel heath, mongrel.

[Apex Effects 3]

looks heaps faster with a orange bumper

[Creaver 55]

That looks pretty kickass!

Can barely even notice the cable ties

[bravo 35]

It's slowly becoming a BMW - the virus is taking hold...

[DRTDVL 0]

the more i look at with the bumper lip on.... the more agressive it makes the car look...

hmm might have to throw it onto the silver bumper in the mean time...

or see if i can get another one to cut up...