DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted February 22, 2010 i removed that stamped heat shield cleaned and foiled that and while it was off the car i also did the tunnel itself then reinstalled the heat shield as it protects the gear linkages and it weights nothing. I didn't do the area behind the gear stick to the handbrake area and that was hot sooner than the area in front of the gear stick which was foiled so i figured it was working to some degree. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Young Thrash Driver 1020 Report post Posted February 28, 2010 Nice Pug, mate I hate them tho. Tried having a go at one when he overtook my E30 320 in some twisty stuff... Never saw him again. Humiliated Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Simon* Report post Posted February 28, 2010 Nice Pug, mate I hate them tho. Tried having a go at one when he overtook my E30 320 in some twisty stuff... Never saw him again. Humiliated Haha you'd lose that power-to-weight battle with a 320 alright Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted March 18, 2010 Update: 16 March So after the drive day last month and having the rear brakes seize on me figured it would be a good idea to sort that out this month... I thought the problem was with the rear calipers needing a rebuild but it turns out they are perfectly fine, BUT the master cylinder for the handbrake was completely seized! Thats now been replaced but has led us to another problem... The pistons in the factory rear brakes are too small, and are doing jack sh*t... We are getting 20 bar to the caliper but with a 5/8's master on the hydro handbrake it will not lock the rear brakes. Also means the rear brakes when using the foot pedal are doing crap all... grrrrr Found this to confirm what I've been told about the master size. I'm now going to be hunting around for new rear brakes or seeing if we can put a new brake on my carrier so we don't need to run spacers or adapters... I've also been thinking that as I've increased the master size for the foot pedal to compensate for the front brakes being larger to get a better feeling pedal I've adversely effected the rear brakes now. yes all the compensators/factory bias valves have been removed... I dropped off my 1.6 gti calipers to see if they could be used on the rear and the pad carrier from 1.6 gti front calipers fits perfectly as a replacement for the pad carrier on the factory rear 1.9 gti/306 calipers. So i've now got the option of larger vented rear discs if i want. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update: 19 March Ok... hate the car again... i am sick of soooooooo many things... Current bill = roughly $1500.... Rear brakes now WORK! with the 1.6 gti front pad carriers on the rear. They will lock up with the foot brake and the handbrake so now the bias valve will actually do something! Better to have too much force in the rear which you can dial out with the bias valve than not have any force, i think... could be wrong... Bad news: All the braided lines need to be replaced as they do not have the lovely tag on them to make the legal in nz = new lines to be made for all 4 wheels which = $$$ The elbow on the caliper to where the brake line fits the rear brakes now hits the body work on full compression = either mod the body work or see about when the new lines are made to see if something can be done to fix this. = $$$$$$ do the problems ever end? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update: 19 March - lunch time Bill now expected to be $2500. =;-( Estimated cost for new bango fitted brake lines = $850, that includes a bled nipple being added to the handbrake master. The brake lines will be run on the rear brakes down the caliper and along the trailing arms so they do no interfere with the body work anymore. I hate how much this is costing me.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Simon* Report post Posted March 19, 2010 I hate how much this is costing me.... And yet you still try to convince us how great they are Heath Don't worry, am just poking fun. Hope you get it all sorted and don't disappear under a mountain of bills along the way Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted March 19, 2010 haha this is not a standard car... non-standard = $$$ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted March 19, 2010 Bad luck The rule doesn't require a tag, it requires swaged fittings (not ones that can be disassembled). Not quite the same. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted March 19, 2010 I was informed that they all need certification tags now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted March 19, 2010 Well that would be another rule change (the 3rd). http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/virm-in-...en-8-brakes.pdf BAsically it says they have to meet in-service requirements, which means: 17. A flexible hydraulic brake hose (including connections): a) is leaking brake fluid, or is insecure, or c) bulges under pressure, or d) is twisted, stretched or chafed, or e) has external sheathing which is cracked to the extent that the reinforcing cords are exposed, or f) has metal connections which are excessively corroded, or g) has an end fitting which is not attached to the hose by means of swaging, machine crimping or a similar process (Note 3). Note 3 just says the fittings can't be disassembled by hand tools (ie typical Aeroquip style fittings). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted March 19, 2010 I'll keep looking on the LTSA site, but on page 8: http://www.racebrakes.co.nz/pdf/brake_upgrade.pdf "For a long time, virtually any type of braided brake hose was O.K, but they needed to be signed off by a low volume vehicle certifier, which meant that the car had to have a low volume certificate. Now the LTSA requires the braided hose itself to meet an approved standard, which is marked on the hose so the testing station guys can pass them, and does away with the need to certify the vehicle." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted March 19, 2010 That is sooooo 2003!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted March 19, 2010 as far as i'm aware it hasn't changed... I was even told this when i took the car in for a WOF. The little asian dude dueing the inspection let it go as they where in good condition... same guy that didn't pull me up for having no auth card, but failed me on my targa windscreen banner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted March 19, 2010 I linked to the WOF Vehicle Inspection Requirements Manual. It's not my fault the dude doesn't read it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted March 19, 2010 (edited) Maybe it's changed... But it seams like everyone i've spoken too still lives by that rule... If it's changed it's changed... thats all good... still i need new lines in the rear to clear the body work... Edited March 19, 2010 by DRTDVL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted April 12, 2010 Have to say the guys are Berton Automotive are great. If any of you want your cars race prep'd or inspected for race/trackday work i'd go see them. I now have working rear brakes... The handbrake now locks the rear so effortlessly you could do it with your pinky finger alone. I've just been driving around Glenfield playing with the rear bias, removing more and more rear brake as it now locks off the foot pedal! I've got the car currently setup so that it will lock all 4 wheels at the same time, i'm thinking i'll need to take a bit more rear brake out when used in anger. So SO SOOOOO happy to have them working properly now, you can feel the wheels tucking up into the wheel arch! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 34 Report post Posted April 12, 2010 Oh damn, there go the scary motorway braking manoeuvres... Srsly - good stuff Heath - now you can go faster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted April 12, 2010 YUP YUP... now just need to look at baffling the sump... Can't wait for raceday in june. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted June 14, 2010 Did the motorkhana yesterday, and even with the problems still managed a respectable placing. 1st in Class C 7th overall (50 competitors) was running as high as 3rd until the 4th track layout (Christmas Tree) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted June 14, 2010 Nice result. Congates! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drifty325i 0 Report post Posted June 14, 2010 Nice one fella, good result Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted June 14, 2010 Any more updates on le pug heath? (no secret projects allowed ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted June 14, 2010 I haven't actually done anything more to the car since the last update... Kinda odd for me but thats the joys of being broke... I've been researching a hell of a lot of information for future plans but wanted to see what the last set of mod's (suspension and brakes) are like in competition and yeah i've had to add a bunch of things to the list and move a few things up the list. From the motorkhana: Steering Rack = way to long, i'll need to look at a quick rack as during the christmas tree run i couldn't turn the wheel quick enough, but a quick rack = heavier steering as i've got no power steering. Steering Wheel = The wheel was too smooth and with the force of almost full lock steering and trying to use the handbrake the wheel started to slip in my hand. I'll look at a set of gloves and maybe a swade steering wheel, this will only get worse with the quick rack once it's in. Rear Suspension = it's squatting when using the handbrake before it locks the wheels, so i'm not sure what i can do about this due to the design of the rear suspension. Handbrake = The leave mount is flexing when the handbrake is used. A new mounting system will be needed, also the leaver design will be looked at too. Longer? Different Angle? etc... Also a removable fly-off system is needed as the handbrake locked on a couple of times during the runs slowing me down. But yeah... some video's can be found here... please note they where taken on a still cam and arn't the greatest. http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e346/DRTDVL/Motorkhana/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted June 15, 2010 Nice work Heathe. The suede steering wheels are awesome to hold. You can borrow mine and see how ya like it if you want. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted June 15, 2010 (edited) ohhhhh thanks man... Next event is next month, i'll see how things go before then i'm going to be rather busy ripping the sump off to get baffled and pulling the struts out to get more caster and lower the car slightly. Not much time really... I"ll flick you a pm when i get the car running again. Edited June 15, 2010 by DRTDVL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Creaver 55 Report post Posted June 15, 2010 Nice placing/vids! Love this little car. Was looking at getting one before I bought the 540i How do you find out about these events? Do you require a MSNZ licence or cage etc? Or can anyone show up provided they have helmet/overalls/fire extinguisher? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
