Flushing Powersteering? E30

[Shady 0]

Can someone give me instructions on how to do this... I know its well & truely due but I aint gonna pay no workshop to do it when I know I could do if told how! I already done my shocks & springs, fanbelt & powersteering belt so might as well keep doing it all myself! So can someone explain how to do it?

And what do I flush it with, or do I just drain it?

[Shady 0]

For real? Damn. So have to spend $$$. Oh well.

[bekker 7]

For real? Damn. So have to spend $$$. Oh well.

I think you can do it yourself. I read a very good 'how to' on one of the Uk E30 websites a while back and if you google it lots of leads come back. The BMW systems are self bleeding so that makes it a whole lot easier.

Let me know how you go - I've got the same thing scheduled on my E28 soon.

Cheers

[greenday-rulz21 6]

Remember you don't use powersteering fluid. Use ATF.

[bekker 7]

Remember you don't use powersteering fluid. Use ATF.

Supercheap have the correct DX2 for like $30 for 4 litres of Penrite, plus a little freight 'cause it's a special order.

[greenday-rulz21 6]

This is what a guy on an overseas forum does:

1. Open the reservoir, pump out all the ATF (I used a turkey baster).

2. Refill with fresh fluid.

3. Put cap back on.

4. Turn car on. Turn the wheel from lock to lock several times. Drive around the block if you feel like it.

5. Turn car off.

6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 three to five times until fluid in reservoir is clean.

The idea is that you dilute the old fluid from the P/S lines with the new fluid and eventually have pretty much all new fluid in the system. You probably get about 85-90% of the benefits of a full flush (depending on how thorough you are) and you're only out a few bucks and 20 minutes to an hour of your time. You can probably even extend this process over an entire week (you'd change the fluid in the reservoir once or twice every day and use your regular driving as the "mixing" action).

Seems alright if you don't want to pay for a mechanic to do it. Don't know how much the P/S takes, but repeating 3 or 4 times might take quite a bit.

[bekker 7]

This is what a guy on an overseas forum does:

Seems alright if you don't want to pay for a mechanic to do it. Don't know how much the P/S takes, but repeating 3 or 4 times might take quite a bit.

There's an easier way involving removing the return hose, emptying the reservoir , running the engine and topping up the reservoir continually until new fluid comes out of the return hose.

THAT WAS NOT THE INSTRUCTION. Please google it. Like I said I saw it on one of the UK E30 websites but it sounded pretty straight forward to me. May well be a two person job though.

Someone else here will have done it I'm sure.

[Hi-Tek 3]

Remember you don't use powersteering fluid. Use ATF.

You can use 'Power Steering fluid', Redline makes a good one that's available from BNT http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant...subCategoryID=5

ATF Dextron II or III were no doubt recommended for our E30s 20 years ago, but technology has improved in fluids since then. I certainly wouldn't use the factory recommended oil for my car these days.

You can try a few different techniques to flush.

This way is a bit wasteful of new fluid:

Use a suction gun/syringe or carefully siphon to take the fluid out of the reservoir (when warm/hot) and replenish with the Redline or whatever ATF fluid you want to use, repeat several times.

Or you could take one end of the return hose off that runs back into the reservoir, put the loose hose end into a bucket or small container. Start the car, turn the wheel full lock left to right. Stop the car, top up the reservoir and repeat that step a couple of times.

It's possibly safer to do it the first way, albeit a bit more wasteful as if any of your seals on your powersteering pump or rack are weak and you remove the lubricating oil whilst doing the x10 lock to lock then you run an extremely high risk of blowing them completely. Which means you will have no more power steering until you replace/recon the failed part.

*This is just my back yard technique, mechanics/pros feel free to critique my techines.

[Shady 0]

Hmmm

Thanks for the ideas guys. I dont know if I'd have time to do something like that.

I think I may do the, refill it twice a day trick. Me and my mate "sort of" done that the day I got it off him. We sucked all the oil crap out, put new in, sucked it out again & put another new lot in...but nothing happened, went black again so the lines & pump must be filled with crap. Will go buy me a bulk lot of cheap fluid, and try that flush/syphon trick then once looks clean, use some nice Proper fluid...Isnt ATF = Auto Trans Fluid?

Im sure thats why my steering is stiff also, cos the fluid just aint doing what its meant to - *

* - my steering wheel gets stiff when I turn to the left, and I gotta pull it back, not HARD but it does have a slight "lock" to the left & it squeeks now n then. I have Bosskit & Sports S/W on. All on properly, bosskit is made for this car. Any ideas why is squeeks & keeps seazing to the left?

[deane30 30]

Can someone give me instructions on how to do this... I know its well & truely due but I aint gonna pay no workshop to do it when I know I could do if told how! I already done my shocks & springs, fanbelt & powersteering belt so might as well keep doing it all myself! So can someone explain how to do it?

And what do I flush it with, or do I just drain it?

you should watch this episode of wheeler dealer on Youtube. Edd china flushes the power steering fluid on a 325i with step by step instructions. Not sure what part it is, you may have to watch the whole thing.

LINK

[greenday-rulz21 6]

Isnt ATF = Auto Trans Fluid?

Yep

[bekker 7]

"ATF Dextron II or III were no doubt recommended for our E30s 20 years ago, but technology has improved in fluids since then. I certainly wouldn't use the factory recommended oil for my car these days."

Redline also do ATF DX2 and 3. Its a spec, nothing to do with quality.

Factory specs are still relevant, engine oil grades for example. These have changed over the years as a result of tolerances, emissions and consumption, not age.

Edited August 1, 2009 by bekker

[Shady 0]

If the rack gets stiff at one end it is more likely the rack is bent rather than teh fluid not doing ist job, which is adding hydraulic power.

How would I check the rack for damage? Oh and I didnt mean the fluid would be doing it, just asking if it would be one of the causes. Whether it is or not, I still need to flush it...may as well just go to a workshop I guess

[bekker 7]

I just did this yesterday.

Piece of cake. Easier than an engine oil change.

Used this webpage

http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/diy/power_steering_flush/

I did The "Optimal Flush" and certainly most of the capacity drained out. The fluid was ok to start with. If it was really dirty I'd be inclined to do it again, but 4 litres of ATF is cheap so I could easily do that.

[bravo 35]

3Pedals is correct in that using the flushing machine does the best job possible.

But as with most of these things, if you DIY and do it thoroughly it'll do a fair job and is 1000 times better than not doing it at all.

I own a 20yo car. A secondhand rack costs less than two professional flushes. I'd rather do it myself and if my rack wears prematurley because of it, too bad.

That said, I'm getting lazy these days and have been thinking about paying someone to do my maintenance for me. If you're working, it ends up easier in the long run.

[BMWTouring 20]

its simple, take the feed pipes off the rack 22mm and 19mm bolts from memory, (dont loose the copper washers!!)

jack the car up, turn the wheels side to side until no more fluid pisses out, put the bolts back in, fill with ATF and repeat if required.

[Shady 0]

Thanks for the suggestions guys, will look in to it

Now, does anyone know how I check my steering rack for damage? Or is that a job for the Pros?

[BMWTouring 20]

not unless you pull it apart, and know what you're looking at.. theres lots of little parts which are easy to loose! if you want to get it checked out, i can recommend Autosteer in Hamilton.

EDIT: also, why do you think its damaged?? if its noisey its most likely the pump.

Edited August 10, 2009 by BMWTouring

[Shady 0]

not unless you pull it apart, and know what you're looking at.. theres lots of little parts which are easy to loose! if you want to get it checked out, i can recommend Autosteer in Hamilton.

EDIT: also, why do you think its damaged?? if its noisey its most likely the pump.

As a previous poster said, the rack may be damaged. Steering sometimes gets stiff when I turn left, I have to jerk it back...

[Quinn 1]

As a previous poster said, the rack may be damaged. Steering sometimes gets stiff when I turn left, I have to jerk it back...

I just had my powersteering pump rebuilt by Auckland powersteering so I asked them about flushing the powersteering fluid. It was a very interesting conversation. Basically (without speaking on their behalf) the end conclusion is you cant flush all the powersteering fluid out without pulling the rack completely apart, which is the same as rebuilding one (cost wise). If you open up your reservoir and pull out the clip holding the gauze and remove it, there is another clip holding a spring, remove it and the large washer and you will find a cylindrical filter. This will most likely be the cause of all your problems. It is often never cleaned or replaced since new and if it is dark in color then it is no longer working properly. Clean it, replace it and all the other stuff and put new ATF fluid in and that should be all you need to do. If your steering is still heavy THEN you should look at the rack. They were very helpful and I highly recommend them to anyone who needs work done on their powersteering pumps!

Cheers

Quinn