E46 Coupe annoying noise

[htra024 0]

Hola all,

The problem is: when I accelerate or slow it down, there is a noise likes “cluk†or something like that that I can hear from the back. Sometime its loud, sometime its not. It seems to me as the noise happen once when the gears change. Example: when I start stopping the car for red traffic light, I slow down the car and I can hear noise once when the car is nearly stop. If I put the gear to neutral “N†then it is no problem or noise at all. Same thing happen when I accelerate, at some certain speed or gear, I can hear the noise once.

I got advices that the rear drift cause the noise. The rear drift was crack and it had been change however the problem has not been fixed.

Im looking forward to hearing from all your advices.

Thank you.

[westy 614]

Prey to god its not your subframe mounts.

Get it checked.

[jochen 4]

Does sound like it could be subframe mounts

Get it checked ASAP and be prepared.... $$$$$$$$ or scrap the car...

[hybrid 1039]

Before everyone freaks you out. Some simple things your mechanic can check are the front and rear sway bar links.

The multilink / semi trailing arm setup also has about 1000 bushes so this also could be the problem.

Do you get the problem under hard acceleration from stand still? This could simply be a broken diff mount. It happened to me.

another fairly embarrassing problem I found once in mine. I had one of my Xenon balast boxes actually knocking on the wheel arch in the engine bay. This cause me to think it was the suspension, but triple checking everything it just turned out to be the balast box :| It makes quite the noise and sound identicle to suspension components.

[*Glenn* 854]

I've already done the rear diff mount on this car for a WOF. There is quite alot of movement in all the rear mounts. Identifying the exact cause is a bit hard as most of the rear bushes have too much play including the top shock mounts. I'd start by checking the rear shocks and doing the shock mounts first and go from there. Depends on how much the owner wants or needs to spend.

[htra024 0]

I apreciated for Glenn services and all your advices however from my point of view as the newbie but critically and logically think about the problem, it would not be subframe mounts issue because:

1. If I go to the bad road condition, I would hear the noise relatively to the car shake.

2. It seems happen at very low speed 10 or 20kmph. Especilly at traffic when I have to go slow, acclerate and slow down all the time. When I go on motoway, I do not hear anything at all.

3. It doesnt happen constantly. Sometime I try to break and slowdown the car smoothly with "D" grear accordingly to the speed then no noise even until I stop still the car.

Moreover, if it is mounts issue, when the car move or hit the rock, I would hear noise evenly with neutral "N" gear. I did tried to break hard with N gear, no noise either.

In my opinion, it would be something with the tranmission, gear or rear diff because with NEUTRAL "N" gear, there is no NOISE at all.

Im looking forward to hear other advice.

Thank you.

[Forrest 35]

Sounds like subframe mounts IMO

[htra024 0]

You all pretty much freaked me out .

How much does it cost to fix? And who would do the job please?

Hix.. such as bad car I have. Arm control, subframe issues and some right front damages @@.

THank you.

I went to the BMW in New Market before, they said they could not say anything before taking whole rear out and they chaged $400 or $500 just to find the problem.

[*Glenn* 854]

Unfortunately all your going to get on the forum is more opinions or suggestions. McMillan BMW have given you their answer. I've breifly checked the car and shown you all the movement in the rear subframe and shock mounts when we did the rear diff mount. They cant, and I cant give a firm quote because at the end of the day it all needs to come out and have all the mounts checked and replace any that are worn or broken. I'm also very surprised to hear that you are still driving on those faulty aftermarket front lower control arms that cause the steering to jam on full lock that we checked for you about a year ago. At the end of the day, if you want it fixed you'll have to start spending some money. If you want more professional opinions you could try asking Ross @ BMWorkshop or Ken @ Bellars Motor Works. The replacement of the broken rear diff mount for the WOF has lessn'd the noise. I conclude that it is the rear subframe mounts and shock mounts that are causing the noise... however I've been known to be wrong and I haven't actually been asked to diagnose or investigate the problem properly.

[HELLBM 1530]

Call me for another solution.

0212435526

Regards Ray

[westy 614]

So let me get this straight.

You had your diff mount replaced and were told at the time, by a professional, that several other bushes are worn, and your on the internet asking us why your car is making clunking noises that sound like they are coming from the rear?

[Grant 4]

So let me get this straight.

You had your diff mount replaced and were told at the time, by a professional, that several other bushes are worn, and your on the internet asking us why your car is making clunking noises that sound like they are coming from the rear?

Thats what I got from it.

In addition, I take it that the OP has used inferior after market parts, that have been pointed out as being such, and wonders why his car does not behave as one would expect.

Cheers

Grant

[*Glenn* 854]

Thats what I got from it.

In addition, I take it that the OP has used inferior after market parts, that have been pointed out as being such, and wonders why his car does not behave as one would expect.

Cheers

Grant

I think the arms were fitted when it went through compliance before he bought it

[silvermace 0]

I will just put my 2c in because most people have just decided to point out your flawed thinking rather than trying to convince you to get the work done once and done right.

I used to have an E46 328Ci, it was in pretty good condition - the engine was silky smooth and the overall look of the car was pretty tight. Unfortunately, it still needed the control arms, brakes and some of the cooling+intake components replaced - approx $6000 worth of work.

The initial shock of realising that my seemingly untroubled BMW needed alot of work to get 100% right, and timing on some other personal/work related issues put me off, thinking it didnt need to be done. But eventually, I came to my senses and got the work done, and boy oh boy did it hurt to be forking out $6k after paying out a decent amount for the car.

The end result, was a much better car and (as a petrol head) a life lesson. I know you're probably in a sticky situation - you've got this car that is too valuable to just scrap, but the work needed compared to the initial cost of the car seems too much. All I can say is you need to get it done, or you need to get rid of the car - and the ethical thing is to make sure the new owner knows of the problems, dont just fob off the issues!

there really isn't a middle ground - trust me, I have searched for it.

When I had to get the work done, Glenn was very helpful, he pointed out what needed urgent attention and I brought the car in once a month for 3 or 4 months till everything was done. By the end of the experience, I knew my BMW alot better, I knew alot more about what to look for when buying my next car, AND at the end of it I had a much better car than I test drove when I bought it!

And you know the best thing? I was rewarded for doing that initial investment. In the end, when I went to sell the car, It was easy to be honest about the fact the car was 100% solid, I ended up selling the car over a year later with 20,000km added to the clock, for more than I paid for it - a rarity in the non-classic BMW world!

I hope this helps you make the right decision.

Kind Regards,

-Danu

[htra024 0]

can anyone please conclude and ensure the subframe issue so i can go ahead with this?

Thanks alot.

[Forrest 35]

^ Just book it in to Glenn's and get him to give it a proper inspection, your just going to get more guesses by less qualified people until somebody actually looks and can diagnose what is wrong with it.

[hybrid 1039]

what he said, the internet is not the place to diagnose it.

[zenetti 0]

^ Just book it in to Glenn's and get him to give it a proper inspection, your just going to get more guesses by less qualified people until somebody actually looks and can diagnose what is wrong with it.

smartest thing that has been said today

[htra024 0]

^ Just book it in to Glenn's and get him to give it a proper inspection, your just going to get more guesses by less qualified people until somebody actually looks and can diagnose what is wrong with it.

Glenn, can I please have a quote for diagnosing the problem? Please inform me how long you will need so I would organise my transport.

Thank you.

[tonylauno1 7]

The best thing is to get a 2nd opinion especially if the problem is not straight forward.

From your description the clunk sounds serious, metal on metal makes a clunk, best to check it out.

I always use the guys at www.autoclinic.co.nz. The owner of the place David is an expert on these cars, does a lot of work for Continental cars in the background and even trains their mechanic on certain fields. The manager Anton is from BMW North Hampton or North Hampshire, I don't recall, my geography is not good in that part of the world. All the staff get regular training from BMW, Benz, Audi etc...

The rate is $65+gst p/h, they don't normally charge me to diagnose problem because they know my family well. You can tell Anton that one of your associate Tony who drives a 328ci as well has recommended you.

If I were you, I wouldn't expect him to give me his time for free, but just that he knows you are an associate of one of his good customer and he will look after you personally.

With all due respect, I know Glenn is the expert mechanic and he is the forum mechanic here but I'm just giving this guy an alternative.

These guys have Lots of courtesy cars, so tell them that you need one too.

Edited September 25, 2009 by tonylauno1

[*Glenn* 854]

All the staff get regular training from BMW, Benz, Audi etc...

Yes I know Anton very well...have done for many years

And you are wrong with the training scheme you have just indicated. BMW NZ Ltd, EMD (Audi VW) and Daimler Chrysler NZ Ltd (Mercedes) do not train mechanics outside their dealerships. Like ourselves we have to train ourselves and access all tech info and equipment from overseas.

I would suggest the original OP take his car there for a quote or second opinion.

[jochen 4]

can anyone please conclude and ensure the subframe issue so i can go ahead with this?

Yes, the BMW mechanic that inspects the car with his own eyes and spends some time on the car checking everzthing can confirm and conclude if the subframe is an issue or not.

[tonylauno1 7]

Yes I know Anton very well...have done for many years

And you are wrong with the training scheme you have just indicated. BMW NZ Ltd, EMD (Audi VW) and Daimler Chrysler NZ Ltd (Mercedes) do not train mechanics outside their dealerships. Like ourselves we have to train ourselves and access all tech info and equipment from overseas.

I would suggest the original OP take his car there for a quote or second opinion.

Hi Glenn,

What I had meant was the mechanic at the dealership that trains them, like Coutts or Giltrap or Team McMillan. I'm pretty sure the owner pay them so he could sit in or get them to come out so every staff could be trained.

Tony

[htra024 0]

I just got this off from the net. Any comments or suggestions?

There are some sources saying BMW would fix it for free. Im not too sure it would exist in New Zealand.

Thanks.

KElvin

e46_subframe_tis.pdf

[kerry 10]

I just got this off from the net. Any comments or suggestions?

There are some sources saying BMW would fix it for free. Im not too sure it would exist in New Zealand.

Thanks.

KElvin

man if that is the case u have a big issue. that doc said fill it with foam?? wtf . have you had it on a hoist l