M50 Conversion Links

[Forrest 35]

Hey guys,

So I am seriously thinking and am seriously tempted to do this as it would transform my car on the track, I am over having a unreliable, tired motor. Especially the fact that my m20 sounds like it has given up the ghost after a track day on Saturday.

So I need some more info on this, I know of a few guys that have done this, I was wondering if they could point me in the right direction for walkthrough's, DIY's etc so I can work out what I need and the most efficient way to do this.

My mate is doing this to his e30 in the summer also, so any info posted here would be doubly beneficial.

Thanks in advance,

Nathan

Edited October 5, 2009 by Forrest

[|ncary 0]

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76315

Good'un.

[Forrest 35]

^ Thanks Henry

[*Glenn* 854]

If your realy serious... go for a M52B28... don't worry about EWS... I can help you with this. Ring me tomorrow if you want some more info.

[Forrest 35]

Either M50 or 52 will be the go, I assume most of the other things are the same for the swap??? so once I find a suitable donor when the funds come through, I won't be purchasing a motor for a while.

I really want maximum bang for buck with everything, since money doesn't exactly piss out of my wallet, but If I want to do it right, I want to do it right the first time.

RyanG, I will just use the G260 in my car, plus I have a spare G260 as well, want to try make the most of the majority of parts I already have on the car. I would use whatever brake booster is easiest to install as I plan on DIY'ing everything bar the exhaust.

In terms of radiators I have a far larger than factory m20 325i radiator, temp gauge wouldn't go past a 1/4 except on the track up to half, Glenn you wouldn't know what radiator Dan used would you? So I was wondering if I could get away with that.

Edited October 5, 2009 by Forrest

[*Glenn* 854]

Another good link

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forumdisplay.php?f=129

[BM WORLD 1283]

the face lift e30 320i 325i has the same radiator as the early e36 m50 325i 320i etc

the radiator in my e36 92 325i came from a e30 320i 1990

[mark247 39]

I would use whatever brake booster is easiest to install

If you want easiest to install get a MK1 Golf booster, but from the one person I know who ran a MK1 booster he said the brakes are pretty crap.

If you want decent brakes get the vacuum booster setup from a 7 series, and you can run either the 7 series master cylinder or 5 series. Just make sure you get one with the same sized threads for both the front and back brake lines as the E30. I was lucky enough that my E30 had only two lines going to the master cylinder so it was basically plug and play, but RyanG's had 3 lines going to it so it was a little more work. Best ask him about that. To get the booster to fit you do a mixture of shaving the fins off the inlet manifold, putting spacers under on the engine mounts, and slotting the holes the booster mounts too.

If you read on the net about people running E21 brake boosters, I'm pretty sure it's only LHD e21 boosters which work, because the E21 boosters I've seen in NZ are mounted remotely and wont work.

[martyyn 2]

I know of an m52b28 that will be available in the coming months Give me a shout with your time lines and Ill have a word with him.

[RyanG 0]

E30's with ABS have 2 brake lines, non ABS have 3.

[pureboiracer 0]

you know the car in build 2

www.sexybm.co.nz

[HELLBM 1552]

Hellbm has M50B20`s and M50B25`s along with manual looms. Also gearbox`s to suit conversions

Can also do M52B20`s, 25`s and 28`s.

Edited October 5, 2009 by HELLBM

[RyanG 0]

Hellbm has M50B50`s and M50B52`s along with manual looms. Also gearbox`s to suit conversions.

m50b50's and m50b52's?

Long day today?

[HELLBM 1552]

m50b50's and m50b52's?

Long day today?

Sure was. Thanks. Forgot to add M54B30 as well.

[Forrest 35]

Calling Luke (Boost Junky), I know you have truckloads.....

[*Glenn* 854]

Here another one I have

http://www.e3024v.com/reference.htm

Hows your German?

http://www.e30.de/

Another

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/archi...x.php/f-20.html

Edited October 5, 2009 by *Glenn*

[RyanG 0]

E34 M50 sump + pick up tube and dip stick.

E36 alloy mounting arms

You have a few options for rubber mounts, mark, kerry and me have used e34 m50 ones with shims on each side (1-3mm) to get the engine sitting right. Apparently you can use e28 ones aswell.

Me and mark have used e32 vacuum boosters for the brakes, kerry used a mk1 golf booster, he said it dosent work very well tho. The advantage of the golf booster is that it bolts straight on (actually it might need slight modification to the push rod) and use can use your original master cylinder.

With the e32 one, you need to file / grind the fins off the manifold, and slot the holes in the firewall to move it down and across, also swap the adjustable linkage part of the push rod from the E30 booster onto the E32 one, they are different lengths.

One advantage of this is you can use a bigger master cylinder, I think my booster came with a 25mm one. The master cylinders from cars with ABS have only 2 outlets (ie, any from a e36 / e32 which bolt up to this booster), so if your car does not have ABS you will need to tee off one of them for your front brakes. You will also need a remote resovoir for this setup.

If you go with this booster also make sure to get the little bracket thing that goes with the booster (it extends it out, and converts the bolt pattern of the booster to the same as the e30) I can get some pics of my setup if you want. Brake pedal is nice and stiff, rear bias is a little too much, but nothing you cant live with, tho I have an adjustable proportioning valve to go in.

Wiring is easy for ODB1 engines, use an E36 harness as it is longer and the ECU will reach into teh cabin and mount in the normal spot. The E34 one isnt long enough and the ECU will have to sit in the battery tray. Cut the C101 plug off the E30 engine harness and cut the x20 plug off the e36 / e34 harness and wire the E30 one on. There are plenty of diagrams on the net. If your car has ABS, do not connect the ABS wire in the C101 plug, there is instructions somewhere with what you need to do in regards to this. Does your car have an OBC with the code function?

Next is the gearbox cross member, that will need modifying too accomodate the new angle that the gearbox will sit on. Its not hard to do, I could post a picture of mine if you want. Or you could make another cross member. I used original mounts.

What type of shifter does your gearbox use? The sheet metal type needs to be spaced away from gearbox on the right hand side mount and rotated a bit to even get the shifter to come thru the hole. It is driveable like this, but 1st is where 3rd would usually be. You can cut the linkage and rotate it and then weld it to put it back in the normal place. The other type of shifter with the alloy arm works better and dosent require any modification, it lines up with the hole better and the shifter isnt in as bad as a posistion but would still need cutting and welding of the linkage to get it back to the normal posistion. Tbh, I have no problem with how mine is after getting used to it.

For exhaust manifolds get the stainless M52 ones, you will need to cut them up and bend them a bit so they clear the steering column. Then just make an exhaust to fit.

For radiator hoses, you can use the an M20 radiator hose for the bottom one. For the top one you can use an e36 one, depending on your radiator, or a combination of e36 / m20 ones cut up and joined.

You also need to swap the tempreture sensor out of the m20 into the m50 for the gauge cluster to read correctly.

Its not a hard swap if you have all the parts.

Edited October 5, 2009 by RyanG

[*Glenn* 854]

Thats a very helpful thread Troy. If I was Nath I'd still go for a M52B28 if he can afford to

[Forrest 35]

^^ Thanks Ryan G, much appreciated.

Edited October 5, 2009 by Forrest

[RyanG 0]

Thats a very helpful thread Troy. If I was Nath I'd still go for a M52B28 if he can afford to

I imagine everything would be the same for an m52 apart from the wiring and alot of the emissions crap they have. You can either wire the EWS up, or get a chip that disables it + hp gains.

M52 is a much better engine, but for the extra $$ it might not be affordable to alot of people. M50's are cheap (i got mine for $300 compared to what $1500~? for a m52?

[Forrest 35]

M50's are cheap (i got mine for $300

If you could keep an ear out for one that cheap ish that you know of again, I would personally come up and grab it. Obviously from the people I have talked to with M5x E30's the gains over an old M20 are big enough regardless of displacement.

[RyanG 0]

If you could keep an ear out for one that cheap ish that you know of again, I would personally come up and grab it. Obviously from the people I have talked to with M5x E30's the gains over an old M20 are big enough regardless of displacement.

I think you would be waiting along time to get one that cheap again. I think I was just lucky. You should try mosens, they probally have everything you need.

[Forrest 35]

Troy/anyone else:

- What do I need in regards to a throttle cable? I have heard E30 ones work, but I see Mark used a E34 one in his.

- Considering my car will be used on the track I guess I better booster would be in order, I.E e32 set up.

- My car has the later (non plate) shifter so that is not a problem.

- Gearbox mounts? I see some people use E21 mounts as they are stronger?

- My car had ABS but it has been disconnected, and I have the OBC with the CODE function yes.

- M50 is the more realistic option at the moment if I can find one cheap enough.

Edited October 5, 2009 by Forrest

[RyanG 0]

Troy/anyone else:

- What do I need in regards to a throttle cable? I have heard E30 ones work, but I see Mark used a E34 one in his.

Im pretty sure an M20 one will be too short. I used either an e34 or e36 one. I used the one mark didnt. Marks comes straight out of the firewall, and mine has a steel bend in it, which I think is better.

- Considering my car will be used on the track I guess I better booster would be in order, I.E e32 set up.

- My car has the later (non plate) shifter so that is not a problem.

- Gearbox mounts? I see some people use E21 mounts as they are stronger?

Are e21 ones the same dimension as orginal ones? I guess it depends if you are going to modify your existing crossmember or make a new one.

- My car had ABS but it has been disconnected, and I have the OBC with the CODE function yes.

Alright, do not connect the ABS wire in the C101 connector. IIRC its a big red and yellow wire. It actually connects to an earth on the body side and creates a dead short.

Because you have the Code fucntion there is another wire you do no hook up in the C101, if it is connected it will prevent your car from starting. I cant remember what wire it is, but what I done is connect all the wires the engine needs to start (fuel pump, starter, main relay), and then connect the rest one by one and trying to start the engine each time until you find the wire. Or you could trawl thru the ETM's.

- M50 is the more realistic option at the moment if I can find one cheap enough.

Edited October 5, 2009 by RyanG

[*Glenn* 854]

Why not check out Martyn (Penry) mate who will have a M52B28 coming up shortly. It might be at the right price. Avoid a motor that has ASC or you'll end up having to get a different loom, throttle body, DME etc because its all different.