Coolant Change M52 2.8

[39KiwiTouring 2]

Hi I am not overly mechanical strong point mainly electrical fault finding and the like.

I want to tempt to change the coolant in my e39 has anyone have any quick tips.

Like don't attempt it, or yes easy drain plug bottom left etc.

How much coolant will I need, I have a 1.0l bottle here.

TIA.

[Wom 0]

it's as easy as doing oil changes

try this guide - http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/diy/coolant_flush/

[Docile 64]

NEVER pour concentrated coolant straight from the bottle to your cooling system. have another bottle and mix coolant + water 50 - 50 mix in there then pour into your cooling system. concentrated coolant poured straight from the bottle can erode your radiator.

[*Glenn* 854]

There is more to it than that.... its not an E36. I suggest the OP (Kieran) gives me a call on (09) 2722546 I'm too busy to document it at the moment.

Edited January 8, 2010 by *Glenn*

[*Glenn* 854]

NEVER pour concentrated coolant straight from the bottle to your cooling system. have another bottle and mix coolant + water 50 - 50 mix in there then pour into your cooling system. concentrated coolant poured straight from the bottle can erode your radiator.

????

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

NEVER pour concentrated coolant straight from the bottle to your cooling system. have another bottle and mix coolant + water 50 - 50 mix in there then pour into your cooling system. concentrated coolant poured straight from the bottle can erode your radiator.

Not to mention its hard to get a 50 50 mix

[*Glenn* 854]

Not to mention its hard to get a 50 50 mix

1 + 1 = 2 when I went to school ???

[Guest Simon*]

Bloody NCEA has a lot to answer for!

[DRTDVL 0]

Glenn will no doubt correct me on this as it's information i've heard but can't seam to verify it's correctness (is that a word?).

The higher the % of coolent in your system the higher the boiling point of the fuild, but the lower the thermal transference of the fuild in your system.

If i get that right it means the more coolent the slower the water will heat and the slower it will cool, BUT it will have a higher boiling point than just straight pressurized water.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

1 + 1 = 2 when I went to school ???

well hes saying he doesn't know the capacity of his engine so premixed is better as it will be 50/50 no matter how much you need

Bloody NCEA has a lot to answer for!

Edited January 8, 2010 by ethrty320

[*Glenn* 854]

Glenn will no doubt correct me on this as it's information i've heard but can't seam to verify it's correctness (is that a word?).

The higher the % of coolent in your system the higher the boiling point of the fuild, but the lower the thermal transference of the fuild in your system.

If i get that right it means the more coolent the slower the water will heat and the slower it will cool, BUT it will have a higher boiling point than just straight pressurized water.

The boiling point is controled by the radiator cap. The higher release pressure the higher the system can go in temperature without boiling. The concentration of coolant won't have very much effect at all. Coolant is not cold

[*Glenn* 854]

well hes saying he doesn't know the capacity of his engine so premixed is better as it will be 50/50 no matter how much you need

We use 3 bottles (1.5 Ltr) of BMW coolant when doing a complete system change on a 6 cyl... 2 on a 4 & 3.5 on a 8

Edited January 8, 2010 by *Glenn*

[*Glenn* 854]

Bloody NCEA has a lot to answer for!

I think its more a case of some only went to school to eat their lunch Simon

[e30ftw 410]

Someone needs to read up on Radiator fluid and the science behind water and boiling temperatures..

[DRTDVL 0]

The boiling point is controled by the radiator cap. The higher release pressure the higher the system can go in temperature without boiling. The concentration of coolant won't have very much effect at all. Coolant is not cold

Oh ok, i was under the impression that at a given pressure a system with coolent will boil at a higher temprature compared to a straight water system. I only ask as i've see coolent refered to as anti-boil and also anti-freeze depending on the climate it's being sold in.

Any idea on the thermal conductivity/transferance of a system with a 50:50 mix versus something like a 70w:30c mix?

e30ftw: me?

There is an interesting thread about swapping to an unpressurized system on the aussiefrogs forum: http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74889

Edited January 8, 2010 by DRTDVL

[*Glenn* 854]

Someone needs to read up on Radiator fluid and the science behind water and boiling temperatures..

Enlighten me

[e30ftw 410]

Pressurized water = higher boiling point. How a 'pressure cooker' works.

Anti-boil/anti-boil/Coolant whatever you wanna call it has far less impurities than water. Less corrosive, further increases the boiling temperature. So the concentration DOES matter.

[*Glenn* 854]

Most coolants have a lower freezing point and a higher boiling point than water. The boiling point of the mixture inside the engine is controlled by atmosphere pressure. Increase radiator release pressure and that will allow the water to reach a higher temperature before boiling. Most manufacturers design their engines to run at specific operating temperatures for maximum efficiency with their coolant and coolant mixtures and a controlled release pressure from the radiator cap.

[*Glenn* 854]

Pressurized water = higher boiling point. How a 'pressure cooker' works.

Anti-boil/anti-boil/Coolant whatever you wanna call it has far less impurities than water. Less corrosive, further increases the boiling temperature. So the concentration DOES matter.

What did I miss then ??

[*Glenn* 854]

Hi I am not overly mechanical strong point mainly electrical fault finding and the like.

I want to tempt to change the coolant in my e39 has anyone have any quick tips.

Like don't attempt it, or yes easy drain plug bottom left etc.

How much coolant will I need, I have a 1.0l bottle here.

TIA.

Back on topic....this man has asked for some help... not an arguement over who knows what, how or when.

I really don't know f**k all ... I just like to post whore and pretend I know things.

BTW: I don't normally swear... sorry serious people

Edited January 8, 2010 by *Glenn*

[39KiwiTouring 2]

Ok cool, no pun intended, my mate came around sounds classic doesn't it, we decided it needs the genuine BMW coolant as mentioned and 1.5l of it, as well as rear brake pads and a oil service, so it's booked in for wednesday next week.

If I was in Auckland I would take it to you Glenn no problems at all.

The bleeding the air and etc, just sounded like someone who knows what they are doing needs to do the job.

Thanks everyone if it was a 89 Sentra SG no probs I would of done it.

Must say that allot of people say an annual coolant change is crucial for a engine to get high milage, as it breaks down and can erode head gaskets etc, interesting.

[*Glenn* 854]

I was more concerned over scanning the heating system for fault codes with the auxillary water pump. If it doesnt work, you'll get air locks and end up overheating the engine if it doesn't bleed properly. There is a proceedure to do this properly. There are also a few other things that you must check as well for preventative maintanence .

[39KiwiTouring 2]

Re the other things to check for preventative maintenance shall I assume my mechanic who has worked for BMW in the UK but now works at the local now, to check these things or should I mention them to him?

Sounds like I need to truck it to you, in fact I've decided I will if it requires anything major in the future.

[*Glenn* 854]

If you have any concerns.. as I said previously... just give me a call.. your tech as well if he has any concerns... I'm glad to help if I can... with anything

[39KiwiTouring 2]

Thank you for being generous with your expertise I shall pass on your details (Botany Motor Worx??) is that right? it's good to know that the expertise is there for this Marque without having to deal with the dealers all the time.