basildogz 0 Report post Posted February 24, 2010 Hey guys. i got a problem with my bmw. its a 1999 e46 328ci. Its recently had problems starting, the display lights up, but it does not crank. I have taken it to BMW, and BMW workshop and local mechanics.. and they dont know whats the problem either. We sort of believe it could be something to do with the ignition or key or something like that.. it feels like the car is immobolised. or the key and ignition are not reading each other to start the car. Any of u guys had this problem? what did you do? Have checked batteries. replaced car battery, replaced key batteries. its not the alternator. and went to my aftermarket alarm provider to see whats the problem. (still no resolution). Hit me back with any questions or answers to help out. sigh..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
basildogz 0 Report post Posted February 24, 2010 Hey guys. i got a problem with my bmw. its a 1999 e46 328ci. Its recently had problems starting, the display lights up, but it does not crank. I have taken it to BMW, and BMW workshop and local mechanics.. and they dont know whats the problem either. We sort of believe it could be something to do with the ignition or key or something like that.. it feels like the car is immobolised. or the key and ignition are not reading each other to start the car. Any of u guys had this problem? what did you do? Have checked batteries. replaced car battery, replaced key batteries. its not the alternator. and went to my aftermarket alarm provider to see whats the problem. (still no resolution). Hit me back with any questions or answers to help out. sigh..... something else i have noticed today is that.. when i crank it, the display lights seem to dimmmish ... and looks like a flicking light, from full strength display light to timid. When i took the car to bmw, they did a battery check.. and said my new battery was at like 30% strength, which they said is bad. So i guess i could have a power wasting device on my car. Another question.. at which stage will my car be at the least power wasting mode? Do i have to arm (lock ) my car with alarm on? or do i suppose to unlock the car?> which status is best for the car to be idle like parked in the garage at night time? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted February 24, 2010 looks like you answered your own question with the battery thing. Sounds like it doesnt have the balls to crank the car over. best would be to leave it unarmed over night if its in a secure garage, but really, with a new battery, it should be able to go a good few months or so before the battery goes flat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted February 24, 2010 (edited) As far as I'm aware the car enters 'sleep mode' after a period of inactiveness (is that a word??) regardless of whether it's locked or not. If somethimg is draining the battery it's because something isn't allowing it to enter 'sleep mode'. Of course this is guessing and I have no idea whether this is your problem or not, but I'm curious.... You had BMW check the battery but didn't have them scan the car for faults? Edited February 24, 2010 by westy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 24, 2010 (edited) EWS (key recognition) will not stop the car cranking, it only stops the car from running. Cranking faults can only be battery, ignition switch, inhibitor (if its auto) central body control unit or starter motor. I'm surprised others havent been able to sort it. How did you get it to these other repairers if it doesnt go ?? Battery discharge in sleep mode should not be any greater than 20 mA. If its greater, you must find which control unit is causing it. This can be quite a prolonged process. Has the vehicle been scanned ? The most common problem for battery discharge is the heater resistor block. Do you have all heater fan speeds ? and does the heater fan sometimes keep going when the ignition is off ? Was anything done to the car prior to this happening ? You can give me a call if you like (09)2722546 Edited February 24, 2010 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
basildogz 0 Report post Posted February 24, 2010 EWS (key recognition) will not stop the car cranking, it only stops the car from running. Cranking faults can only be battery, ignition switch, inhibitor (if its auto) central body control unit or starter motor. I'm surprised others havent been able to sort it. How did you get it to these other repairers if it doesnt go ?? Battery discharge in sleep mode should not be any greater than 20 mA. If its greater, you must find which control unit is causing it. This can be quite a prolonged process. Has the vehicle been scanned ? The most common problem for battery discharge is the heater resistor block. Do you have all heater fan speeds ? and does the heater fan sometimes keep going when the ignition is off ? Was anything done to the car prior to this happening ? You can give me a call if you like (09)2722546 _____________________________________ BMW has done a computer check, left it there for the day, and said the computer picked up nothing. BMW says it probably my aftermarket alarm immobolising my car. Sometimes it cranks sometimes it does not, hence i think its a battery problem, as i can leave it overnight and it would start, but then after usage it just does that... i not gonna crank for you 100% of the time.. lets give you a chance between 0 - 100% of each crank... LOL. When it does not wanna crank start, all the display lights come on, the heater starts, so i turn off the heater and remove key and crank again. the car does not crank how ever the heater is on again... This problem really only started just before xmas. not sure why. The problem is, BMW told me once my car will never start again, then they can find the actual problem. So as you mention before "Cranking faults can only be battery, ignition switch, inhibitor (if its auto) central body control unit or starter motor. " The display light is on, but no cranks. ..... mmmh I hope other people with this problem can speakup, and tell me whats the problem. Surely i am not the only bmw owner with this problem. My ride is a 328ci, manual, 1999 e46 coupe. 141000kms. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 24, 2010 No one on a forum is going to be able to help you with this. It has to be checked with proper diagnostic gear to determine the fault...which could take more than just a day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
basildogz 0 Report post Posted March 2, 2010 hi please be careful when purchasing batteries. I recently purchased a battery from repco 19/12/09. My car needed its battery replaced, once i replaced it, the car still had power issues, so i checked my car into mechanics, bmw, bmw workshop, to see if its a internal car fault. In the end it was the battery, the battery has a 36 month warranty, and i took it back to repco for a replacement. They did there volt checks and said nothing wrong with it. But only volt checks on the positive and negative contacts. I know it is a battery fault as i have another battery in my car now and the car works perfectly. I feel a little pissed off as repco will not replace my battery saying that the volt check is standard. BMW has done an independent test on the battery and it came out 30% charge! "failed test". So in the end, batteries could have internal problems beyond a stockest ability to pick up faults and no refund or replacement! I am not bad mouthing repco, but i believe a more internal battery check should be provided. IF the battery does not work in a car, with another independent battery working obviously it means the non working battery has a fault. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted March 2, 2010 hi please be careful when purchasing batteries. I recently purchased a battery from repco 19/12/09. My car needed its battery replaced, once i replaced it, the car still had power issues, so i checked my car into mechanics, bmw, bmw workshop, to see if its a internal car fault. In the end it was the battery, the battery has a 36 month warranty, and i took it back to repco for a replacement. They did there volt checks and said nothing wrong with it. But only volt checks on the positive and negative contacts. I know it is a battery fault as i have another battery in my car now and the car works perfectly. I feel a little pissed off as repco will not replace my battery saying that the volt check is standard. BMW has done an independent test on the battery and it came out 30% charge! "failed test". So in the end, batteries could have internal problems beyond a stockest ability to pick up faults and no refund or replacement! I am not bad mouthing repco, but i believe a more internal battery check should be provided. IF the battery does not work in a car, with another independent battery working obviously it means the non working battery has a fault. What brand is the battery ? If its a Century battery, I can check it and replace it under warranty Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
basildogz 0 Report post Posted March 2, 2010 the battery says "repco ultra high performance european 36 months nationwide warranty genuine repco quality, lead battery recycle" You can view them at any repco" On a sad note the guy that served me was telling me, did i take off the postivie and negative caps (before put on the car) then he removes them and can see its been on my car.., then again says.. whats with the caps? i think when u purchase a battery, there are caps on the contact points.!!! To show the points are clean and protected. I guess this is showing that repco does not like warranty batteries. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted March 2, 2010 Are there not 2 tests that can be done on batterys?? One a charge and one a current draw or something like that?? I've bought a battery once that initially tested fine, but wouldn't draw enough amps to start a car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted March 2, 2010 (edited) The proper way is to charge it correctly, if its a calcium battery you need to use a proper calcium battery charger, then use a carbon pile tester to check if its within spec. A small non pile tester doesn't check it properly. Edited March 2, 2010 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
basildogz 0 Report post Posted March 3, 2010 Are there not 2 tests that can be done on batterys?? One a charge and one a current draw or something like that?? I've bought a battery once that initially tested fine, but wouldn't draw enough amps to start a car. I believe i may have the same problem... also the battery was pulled out of the back room and took the repco staff like 10 minutes to find it. So in my opinion it was deadstock battery too. THey had to look for the computer and search for it. I reckon the battery life time was at its end. Hence the problem with the battery. Which repco 100% ensures its not there fault.!! Really, I got independent tests from BMW, they found it 30% battery charge. Battery failed. Showed them this, the guys deny. Not our problem. 36 months repco warranty not really!. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joshnz 2 Report post Posted March 3, 2010 What Repco store are you dealing with mate? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted March 3, 2010 I believe i may have the same problem... also the battery was pulled out of the back room and took the repco staff like 10 minutes to find it. So in my opinion it was deadstock battery too. THey had to look for the computer and search for it. I reckon the battery life time was at its end. Hence the problem with the battery. Which repco 100% ensures its not there fault.!! Really, I got independent tests from BMW, they found it 30% battery charge. Battery failed. Showed them this, the guys deny. Not our problem. 36 months repco warranty not really!. Where are you located ... Auckland ?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jo Blogs 11 Report post Posted March 3, 2010 I believe i may have the same problem... also the battery was pulled out of the back room and took the repco staff like 10 minutes to find it. So in my opinion it was deadstock battery too. THey had to look for the computer and search for it. I reckon the battery life time was at its end. Hence the problem with the battery. Which repco 100% ensures its not there fault.!! Really, I got independent tests from BMW, they found it 30% battery charge. Battery failed. Showed them this, the guys deny. Not our problem. 36 months repco warranty not really!. Supercharge battery's are no doubt the best. starter motors are a common problem with the 328i, they are a denso unit and are cheap brand new through pan pacific, best place to start is pulling the exciter wire of the starter and check if it is getting voltage when the key is in crank position..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
325_driver 422 Report post Posted March 3, 2010 well according to the bimmersport youtube movie, i would say "check your dizzy cap", this sounds very similar to the problem that i had with my e30, after touching a earth that goes to the sump. But you haven't fiddled at all under the bonnet ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3_Power 636 Report post Posted March 3, 2010 well according to the bimmersport youtube movie, i would say "check your dizzy cap", this sounds very similar to the problem that i had with my e30, after touching a earth that goes to the sump. But you haven't fiddled at all under the bonnet ? No distributor in the E46 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jo Blogs 11 Report post Posted March 3, 2010 No distributor in the E46 LOL, Dizzys went out a loooonnnng time ago. Try what i suggested , that will put you on the right track mate! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted March 4, 2010 Try what i suggested , that will put you on the right track mate! I'm sorry to inform you ... it won't.. there is more to diagnosing this fault on a E46 as the OP has suggested... others with skills have also checked this for the OP Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
325_driver 422 Report post Posted March 5, 2010 have you tried threatening the car with possible out comes if it does not start ? worked a few times for me but then again, mine had a dizzy cap Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
basildogz 0 Report post Posted April 13, 2010 have you tried threatening the car with possible out comes if it does not start ? worked a few times for me but then again, mine had a dizzy cap My BMW is still pretty sick, I am getting really pissed off now, taking it to so many mechanics, they can not solve it - but they will charge me like $100+ for telling me they dont know whats the problem.... Probably just gonna sell up the bmw now. A family mechanic also knew of a client with the same problem, BMW suggested to change some parts, so he did, in total he spent $5000. In the end it did not solve the problem. HA. The value of my car is probably around $11000+ ish ... depends. my car is old now. and all the maintenance which glooms around is not make it priority to keep my car. Damn the e46 with all the electronics. Its just very expensive to maintain. Unlike the e36 and older models. You could just slap on a supercharger (bolt ons). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
basildogz 0 Report post Posted April 13, 2010 After watching Target, they say if you purchase a product with a warranty, it only depends on the warranty date of the product. If the product was 2 years on a shelf before sold to a customer, then depending on the warranty time, the warranty could be void. This could be the case for the battery problem i have. The warranty could have been void, from my opinion sitting as dead stock. Which could be false advertising of the battery if it still says 3 years warranty..!!! when the battery is infact rather old. The Repco was in Mt Wellington branch. The Repco batteries. Special european ones. (Those batteries could be slower to move, turnover to be sold, than the normal batteries). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1rotty 40 Report post Posted April 13, 2010 (edited) Dont want to be a smartarse mate & I feel for you, but my suggestion would be to take the damn thing to Glenn - at Botany Motor Works - and stop bleating. Just my opinion Edited April 13, 2010 by 1rotty 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Braeden320 0 Report post Posted April 13, 2010 After watching Target, they say if you purchase a product with a warranty, it only depends on the warranty date of the product. If the product was 2 years on a shelf before sold to a customer, then depending on the warranty time, the warranty could be void. This could be the case for the battery problem i have. The warranty could have been void, from my opinion sitting as dead stock. Which could be false advertising of the battery if it still says 3 years warranty..!!! when the battery is infact rather old. The Repco was in Mt Wellington branch. The Repco batteries. Special european ones. (Those batteries could be slower to move, turnover to be sold, than the normal batteries). Any reputable product or supplier will provide some form of warrenty from the date of purchase per the receipt of purchase. Not the date of production. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites