Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 15, 2010 Anyone able/keen to run a diagnostic scan on this thing mid next week? All going well I can bring it around, otherwise it might require someone to come looksee. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 20, 2010 ^ Anyone? I havent hooked up my CEL yet, but Im 70% sure im gonna have a flashing light Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted December 20, 2010 Good work! Sounds like you are really switched on... how much to do mine ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 20, 2010 (edited) Good work! Sounds like you are really switched on... how much to do mine ? Nah I just read every M50 swap thread on the interwebs, filtered out some of the BS (theres a lot of it!), and got the the right guy to sort out the wiring adapter (cost a box of paypal'd box of beer to the UK) Seriously wiring isnt that hard if you can find the ETM for your car, problem is 90% of the information online is for US cars/engines. Without the ETM your pissing in the wind as the engines and cars change wiring colours/pins/routing massively. Polley on here was a massive help too (Chur!) If your keen to do the swap, I know a guy who has been watching/laughing at me struggling to do this! He could do it in a 1/3rd the time Edited December 20, 2010 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 3 Steps forward, 2 steps backwards. Bled the brakes, adjusted handbrake, spent 2 hours bleeding clutch due to master cylinder being blocked with crap (hasnt had a bleed in yeaaaaars) ended up blowing it out with compressed air thru the slave. She moved under her own power Went to refill the cooling system after the last time, when I ran some of this http://www.tectaloy.com/page22.html through it. Turns out I didnt flush it enough, one would think that two fill ups and drain outs would be sufficient... obviously not. 4 Days later its burnt focking holes in my new OEM radiator. Totally fuct brand spankers radiator. Un-impressed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 Anyone heard of radiator flush doing this before?? Ive googled it with no luck. Notice when I tipped it in (diluted according to the bottle) there was a lot of fizz vapour coming out of the radiator cap. Like Acid+Metal vapour. Wondering if I got a bottle of this stuff that was WAY too strong. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 Possibly. Take it back / call them up and see what the deal is? Do you still have some of the stuff left over that you used / drained out? Might need it to prove it was too strong if it is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 Unfortunatly its long gone. Ive emailed em, not holding much hope though. Ordered a taiwanese one from silverdale radiators. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 What did the rad cost you? Need me a new one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 https://www.silverdaleradiators.co.nz/ $6 bottle of cleaner cost $295 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 If that product rooted the radiator I sold you, I'd be really concerned about the inside of my motor as well, and the heater matrix Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 Dont wanna go there, ignorance is bliss at the moment. Crossing fingers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 Where did you buy it from ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 Supercheap, stuff is made by an aussie company. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 Have you still got the container..hopefully with a little bit in it ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 22, 2010 Unfortunatly it went out with the rubbish yesterday morning Car is all done, just waiting on the new radiator now.... Got a davis craig thermoswitch to control the fan. Easy as to wire up as the switch is rated at 20A, so no need for relays etc. The sensor sits inside the upper radiator hose and runs under the clamp so no need for extra temp switch fittings etc. Piss easy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30-323ti 66 Report post Posted December 22, 2010 Have you double/triple checked you don't have any stray electrical current... (ie missing or poorly earthed motor). Could have been a serious case of electrolysis mixed with the radiator flush residue. Have the radiator guys look at the core, they should be able to tell from looking at it. Re: the thermo switch, not sure what radiator you got, but some have the bungs in the tanks for OEM thermo switches to go into, there is a range of temps you can get also, bit tidier than the davies craig, slip it up ya.... hose clamp jobbie. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 22, 2010 Engine has two earths on it (M20 one was on LH side, M50 on RH so I used both) and the car was only on for maybe 10 minutes max, and has had the battery unplugged all the time its been "resting" Was going to use the stock plug (blanked on my radiator), problem is theyre mounted on the cold side of the radiator. Was trying to find a nice genuine retrofit aircon fitting that sits in the upper hose and has two temp switches, never found one though despite lots of wrecker hunting. Decided to stop naffing around and just do it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted December 22, 2010 I would say it is fine been on the cold side, BMW wouldnt of put it on the cold side if it was going to an issue. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 22, 2010 Isnt the stock temp switch used for overheat, ie when the viscous fan craps out or you switch A/C on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted December 22, 2010 Its a dual temp switch, cant remember what the temps are tho. I've used it on 3 cars that have no viscous fan, and the electric one always seems to come on early if anything. No overheating problems tho. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 22, 2010 (edited) Damn it where were you when my original plan of using the stock temp switches was shot down in flames Oh well, next time I do this ill know a few tricks... Edited December 22, 2010 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 23, 2010 (edited) Got it all bolted together, new radiator slapped in. Took it for a cane, very good fun, obviously not stupid fast, but it pulls hard from any rpm and feels much more willing and rev happy than an M20. Handles like a fricken go kart! The turn in is worlds away from stock, and it corners epically flat and tight like a tiger! Feels even grippier too. I like a lot. Exhuast is a tad loud, but it makes good noises so its OK, unlike the twit next door with his integra.... Took it in for a wheel alignment, front toe in was all on the piss but the rest was bang on the numbers with the exception of the extra camber on the front/rear. I was well impressed, I have a remarkably straight E30 Wheel alignment fella took for a drive, it cocks inside rear wheels going up driveways, choice. Only thing left to fix is my M20 temp gauge sender (that I got rethreaded) its dead as a door knob so ive got no temp gauge. Edited December 23, 2010 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted December 23, 2010 Sweet, must have the mean stiff rear swaybars. What are they? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 23, 2010 Whiteline ones, fronts 24mm rear is 16mm with the adjustable link in the middle. They're a bitch to fit, but from initial impressions they are the shizzle. Looks good with one wheel up in the air turning with the lsd too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
