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E30 diff input seal leaking

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Hey guys,

Been driving quite a bit the last few days and have noticed I am getting quite a bit of oil dripping from the front of the input where the driveshaft bolts to the diff.

I havn't had the diff out of the car yet for a closer look but I assume (bad word) this is where it is from, it smells and tastes like diff oil.

Is this a relatively easy fix? A brief google seems you just undo the nut on the front and replace the seal.

I wouldn't worry if it was a plain diff, but I don't want my $700 LSD grenading itself, or the fact decent LSD fluid is $90 a litre!

While I am at it I will get a full seal kit and replace the sides and the rear while I am at it, aslong as the diff won't require to have the center removed and re-torqued etc.

As with the rest of the car, I would prefer to do the work myself than pay someone else unless necessary.

Any input (excuse the pun) is appreciated.

Cheers, Nathan

Edited by Brams

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^ That's what I have currently/or something similar from memory along with some additional friction modifier, brought it from BNT too, probably got screwed over on the price ha.

Edited by Brams

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^ That's what I have currently/or something similar from memory along with some additional friction modifier, brought it from BNT too, probably got screwed over on the price ha.

My diff seems to be happy as with just the 75w140 in it, doesnt chatter and locks up hard. Im using hybrids recommended redline cocktail in the 145k mile getrag 260 and it seems happy too. Redline FTW.

Its only $14.95US quart, so if they are charging you more than 30 bucks kiwi your getting ripped :D

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Yeah seen that cheers John, might just give it a jam myself and see what happens.

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Now I have not pulled a BMW diff apart but am presumming they are the same as all other diffs.

DONT ever pull the front of a diff apart unless you have the tools and expertise to set up again. The crown wheel and pinion will need to be set properly so they mesh as the should with the crush washer.

I wait for the "you dont know what you are talking about" flame

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^ I will take that into consideration cheers, half tempted to just throw a open diff in for the time being and get it rebuilt properly and shimmed etc with the lockup cranked up...from memory it was rebuilt a few years ago from previous owner(s) so I am kinda stuck with what to do. What do rebuilds set people back? I have heard 400 all the way up to 700+ thrown around. Anyone know?

Edited by Brams

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Pauls correct, if you pull the input flange off the crush sleeve will need to be re-torqued.

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Nathan & Greg... I can help you both with this but I don't have time to write a book... If you would like some help... give me a call... we do this all the time.

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To update this, I fixed this in my garage at home with no paid labour needed B)

Massive thanks to Glenn for giving up his precious time to run me through on the phone how to fix it.

All it needed was a $20 seal from pelican parts.

Happy days.

If anyone wants me to run through how to fix it if they encounter the same problem, feel free to PM.

Cheers

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Next time I do one here at work I'll do a thread with pictures. Was just too busy at the time to write an essay. Glad I could help Nathan

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