Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
polley

M52B28 No start

Recommended Posts

Started fine this morning when I backed it out the driveway. Went to start it before and it fired and that was it.

Has fuel

Has spark

It sounds like it is spinning over faster than normal but that could be my ears playing tricks on me. So my guess is no compression on all cylinders and that the timing chain has let go or some thing similar.

The Vanos unit has been quite rattly for along time, is it possible for these to completely fail and not spin the intake cam shaft?

I am in the progress of taking the valve cover off, by my 10mm socket is too big to get the two middle nuts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

did the engine bay get a clean?. had the same issue and water got into ecu = fried

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Possible but not likely. Useually the seals just fail stopping it from advancing the cam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

did the engine bay get a clean?. had the same issue and water got into ecu = fried

Nah, hasnt been wet at all I dont think. And it has fuel and spark.

I will check out the ecu tomorrow and see if it is wet at all anyway.

Do you have any m52b28's in stock? ( just in case haha).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Possible but not likely. Useually the seals just fail stopping it from advancing the cam

Hrrm. I guess I really need to get the timing cover off to check it out or throw a compression tester on it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it has fuel and spark then you'd think it is missing timing or compression, so probably cam or crank sensor or ECU?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hrrm, I thought if either the ECU, or crank sensor was stuffed it wouldnt have either fuel or spark. It should run without cam sensor, just not in sequential.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I removed the vanos on the race car I set the cam sensor wheel 180 degrees out and it did the same as you describe, so , on that basis it may need it to run?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I removed the vanos on the race car I set the cam sensor wheel 180 degrees out and it did the same as you describe, so , on that basis it may need it to run?

Oh right, I think if the cam sensor is faulty and does not work it should run, just not in sequential.

What might of happened with your race car, is the ECU may have been confused with the cam signal being out 180* as it would not be able to sync it with the crank sensor.

Tho it maybe the case that it does indeed need the cam sensor to run.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What does everyone use to remove the 4 middle nuts? All of my sockets are too thick and dont quite reach the nut. I borrowed a smaller socket set and that still dosent fit. I am tempted to grind a socket down :/

Edit: I have already removed the 4 in the middle, I was trying to pull the studs out haha. Cover still wont come off, seems to be really stuck

Edited by polley

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They don't need the cam sensor to run, I think it's just their effieiency and a second reference point. I don't have one on my e30 m52

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got it off, cams are spinning. Guess it is somthing electrical :S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its running now. NFI what the problem was. Had fuel and spark last night and wouldnt run, checked the timing chain this morning, put it all back together, pulled the ECU out and checked for signs of water, put it back together and was going to check for fuel and spark again but it started up fine so yeah. Took it for a wheelie round the block and its going fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Without the cam sensor it runs in wasted spark. Ecu has no idea if cylinder is on compression stroke or exhaust without it.

Could it have been over fueling because of a shorted wire in the maf or tps etc?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im not sure, will have to wait and see if it plays up again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its running now. NFI what the problem was. Had fuel and spark last night and wouldnt run, checked the timing chain this morning, put it all back together, pulled the ECU out and checked for signs of water, put it back together and was going to check for fuel and spark again but it started up fine so yeah. Took it for a wheelie round the block and its going fine.

My bet - it was flooded

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...