Advice on buying a 5 series

[rusteee 52]

Hi guys

Just looking at finally upgrading from theE36 320 series to a 5 series, and am after a bit of advise, as I'm not too sure what to look out for in the 5's.

Is there any known reliability issues with the 8 cylinders compared with the 6 (based on service history I suppose)? What sort of things (areas) would you look out for, like rust etc? Any certain years to avoid?

Was looking at this one just as somewhere to start, looks nice but it is a Jap import.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=384800720

Thanks in advance

[kiwi535 538]

Hi guys

Just looking at finally upgrading from theE36 320 series to a 5 series, and am after a bit of advise, as I'm not too sure what to look out for in the 5's.

Is there any known reliability issues with the 8 cylinders compared with the 6 (based on service history I suppose)? What sort of things (areas) would you look out for, like rust etc? Any certain years to avoid?

Was looking at this one just as somewhere to start, looks nice but it is a Jap import.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=384800720

Thanks in advance

rust is very unlikely to be a problem on a e 39.Somewhere on this site is a e 39 buyers guide

[hotwire 352]

Looks a nice car - I love the black E39's.

From my perspective - don't worry on the Jap origin - it has the bells & whistles (nav etc)- leather too which is not overly common on M/sport cars - JUST GET IT CHECKED by Glenn or similar before purchase.

Yep - see the buers guide

[rusteee 52]

Looks a nice car - I love the black E39's.

From my perspective - don't worry on the Jap origin - it has the bells & whistles (nav etc)- leather too which is not overly common on M/sport cars - JUST GET IT CHECKED by Glenn or similar before purchase.

Yep - see the buers guide

Oh is there? I'll have another look i've tried a few searches, thanks for that. Yes, Very nice car, was just worried about the 3 litre 6cyl power to weight, compared to the 540 4.4 8cyl. The price aint too bed i suppose, as long as its actually had an oil change in its life hahaha bloody imports. Definetly will be getting a pre purchase inpection, worth the distance travelling to Glenn to get it checked, when I do decide on one. Is there any down side on owning the V8 over the 6 besides gas consumption? Im just over the 320i chewing the gas trying to get it moving hahaha

[dubman 39]

e39guide.pdf

&

DL report bmw_5_series_e39_1996_04.pdf

[my_e36 43]

Buyer's guide. Hope it's useful.

e39guide.pdf

[my_e36 43]

Damn! dubman beat me by 1 minute! lol

[hotwire 352]

Oh is there? I'll have another look i've tried a few searches, thanks for that. Yes, Very nice car, was just worried about the 3 litre 6cyl power to weight, compared to the 540 4.4 8cyl. The price aint too bed i suppose, as long as its actually had an oil change in its life hahaha bloody imports. Definetly will be getting a pre purchase inpection, worth the distance travelling to Glenn to get it checked, when I do decide on one. Is there any down side on owning the V8 over the 6 besides gas consumption? Im just over the 320i chewing the gas trying to get it moving hahaha

The six is arguably a better balanced car than the eight & the 530i regarded as the best six - not that mine is a 30

They do go very well & unless you want the V8 for what a V8 is - then the six is quite adequate. I even find our 2.5 quite ok.

Oil changes - some Japs do actually do that - has it a documented history? Mine did - 2 oil changes in its 24k over 4.5yrs history in Japan Now at just over the 100k mark - engine still clean as a whistle

[rusteee 52]

Legend!! Cheers guys I will have a good read over that, the more I look at the 5 series the more I want one

But yea, I think I'll try go for a 6 like the one in the link I posted above, see if I can go have a look this weekend. Only reason I want to get one from a dealer is hopefully I can trade my one in to save the hassle of having to try sell it, but might look into a few private sales. Anybody know anything about this one?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=386054401

Looks good, although it is an 8cyl would consider it. Does lowering have much affect on the' road noise' and what not of these models?

[darkwolf 0]

V8 has steel instead of alloy subframe and heft of 2 extra cylinders hence heavier front end. But... having owned a 540i that's not as much of an issue as I thought it would be. August last year, I had a drive for a whole day back and forth in Arthurs Pass area and it was the best day of my life. It still puts a smile on my face 10 months on.

They are a dream to drive but an ass to own.

Having said that, issues I was warned about are:

the Infamous Shimmy

Slight wobble at various speeds. The cars are VERY sensitive to wheel balance/alignment/wear on suspension components (joints, bushes etc).

Fuel economy.

I average 14.6L in the 2.5 years I have owned mine, mostly 100KM <5KM roads (cost fuel economy stats are useless unless you know how they are driven).

Water pump

Various years released with plastic impeller wheel. This wears over time and creates movement/overheating issues. Check that this has been replaced with a metal impeller wheel or at least in the last 60,000 KM.

Oil/Powersteering/Transmission Leaks

Nuff said. Oil can leak from the oil filter (remote mounted) due to a pinched O-ring. Looks terminal, simply fixed (new o-ring).

Check the radiator top tank and hoses. Prone to failure

Window actuators

They use a plastic pulley in the load bearing part of a metal system. Pulley breaks windows work(ish). $250 a pop for parts. A**holes to install.

I've had all of the above issues with mine over 2.5 years. And each time I've decided to sell it. BUT, then I fix it and I couldn't dream of selling it.

In summary. I want to discourage you from buying one, but I don't want you to miss out. Do it but keep money aside "just in case".

If you are going to lower it. For the love of god DON'T!!! Just buy one with S-EDC and PROFIT. Change the profile of the tyre if you are going to do anything. The absolute best part of this car is it's Jekyll and Hyde personality. Switch to S on transmission, S-EDC and DSC off and you'll have the most fun you can have with your pants on.

Edited June 24, 2011 by DarkWolf

[Driftit 1964]

Legend!! Cheers guys I will have a good read over that, the more I look at the 5 series the more I want one

But yea, I think I'll try go for a 6 like the one in the link I posted above, see if I can go have a look this weekend. Only reason I want to get one from a dealer is hopefully I can trade my one in to save the hassle of having to try sell it, but might look into a few private sales. Anybody know anything about this one?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=386054401

Looks good, although it is an 8cyl would consider it. Does lowering have much affect on the' road noise' and what not of these models?

Thats my car. Welcome to check it out anytime. Open to offers.

As for the comment about S-EDC. AVOID IT AT ALL COSTS!!! It will cost you less to replace all four shocks with Bilstiens than just one S-EDC shock. And you will find most cars have had it replaced already.

[rusteee 52]

Nice car!! bit of a work of art. Thanks for the write up on that, will keep it in mind ay. Bit of a fuel bill ay, get what you pay for I suppose =P, the 320i I have is pretty bad at 11.8-12l per 100km, have to have a heavy foot to get it to move anywhere.

I havn't personally owned a lowered car, and probably wouldn't get it done, theres just a few nice ones out there that have been lowered. Might go have a look at some this weekend hopefully depending on work, always excited to try a new car x]

[hotwire 352]

V8 has steel instead of alloy subframe and heft of 2 extra cylinders hence heavier front end. But... having owned a 540i that's not as much of an issue as I thought it would be. August last year, I had a drive for a whole day back and forth in Arthurs Pass area and it was the best day of my life. It still puts a smile on my face 10 months on.

They are a dream to drive but an ass to own.

Having said that, issues I was warned about are:

the Infamous Shimmy

Slight wobble at various speeds. The cars are VERY sensitive to wheel balance/alignment/wear on suspension components (joints, bushes etc).

Fuel economy.

I average 14.6L in the 2.5 years I have owned mine, mostly 100KM <5KM roads (cost fuel economy stats are useless unless you know how they are driven).

Water pump

Various years released with plastic impeller wheel. This wears over time and creates movement/overheating issues. Check that this has been replaced with a metal impeller wheel or at least in the last 60,000 KM.

Oil/Powersteering/Transmission Leaks

Nuff said. Oil can leak from the oil filter (remote mounted) due to a pinched O-ring. Looks terminal, simply fixed (new o-ring).

Check the radiator top tank and hoses. Prone to failure

Window actuators

They use a plastic pulley in the load bearing part of a metal system. Pulley breaks windows work(ish). $250 a pop for parts. A**holes to install.

I've had all of the above issues with mine over 2.5 years. And each time I've decided to sell it. BUT, then I fix it and I couldn't dream of selling it.

In summary. I want to discourage you from buying one, but I don't want you to miss out. Do it but keep money aside "just in case".

If you are going to lower it. For the love of god DON'T!!! Just buy one with S-EDC and PROFIT. Change the profile of the tyre if you are going to do anything. The absolute best part of this car is it's Jekyll and Hyde personality. Switch to S on transmission, S-EDC and DSC off and you'll have the most fun you can have with your pants on.

Mine so far has been immune to all those E39 quirks - I stress SO FAR.

Only repair thing I have done, apart from front rotors at 60k ish, pads all round & bloody tyres, is the front sway bar links - drivers side had worn ball joint.

As far as changing tyre profile - I don't agree with that one

I have seen a few E39's that have been professionally lowered (I mean slightly) with no problems had

[Jo Blogs 11]

Mine so far has been immune to all those E39 quirks - I stress SO FAR.

Only repair thing I have done, apart from front rotors at 60k ish, pads all round & bloody tyres, is the front sway bar links - drivers side had worn ball joint.

As far as changing tyre profile - I don't agree with that one

I have seen a few E39's that have been professionally lowered (I mean slightly) with no problems had

Get a V8 & Motorsport. UK, NZ NEW or Singapore are the best. (Jappas DO NOT look after there cars)

Even the 3.5L goes bloddy well.

Only issue i had with mine was front tires, Just use a tire with a good solid edge on it or you will find it will chew out very fast.

Falcons.....avoid like the plauge!!!!!

Best record so far.....7,000km and Farked!!!!!!!!!

Edited June 24, 2011 by Winckel

[hotwire 352]

I beg to differ on ex Jap. NOT ALL Jap cars are neglected. I have said on here plenty of times - mine was a fully documented service history 24.5km, nearly 5 yr old car. Got all four keys too.

Have also come across plenty of other ex Jap Beemers that have been well serviced cars. That said - there is plenty of crap that has come in too. It is a case of buyer beware.

Ex Sing E39's - not always good option. Some are not complete spec cars - no heating system for one.

Ex Sing E65's dont appear to suffer the same spec issues

[rusteee 52]

Yea I did see that one on there, very nice!! what was your average consumption like in the 535?

Yea i'm always looking out for NZ New, but then the price is usually ridiculously higher then the others. First thing I usually look at when I check an import one is whats under the oil cap, usually tells you a bit about the service history, the main problem I rekon is people think every 10,000kms, when really the cars does about 60,000kms worth of idle in round town driving before it reaches the 10,000kms mark and by then the oil is rooted. I tend look out for service records that are done every 6 months or 5,000k sort of thing. The 320 is a jap import, and I think might have suffered a bit of the "long service interval", but that being said it has been a brilliant almost hassle free 40,000kms travelled in it since ive had it.

[Jo Blogs 11]

I beg to differ on ex Jap. NOT ALL Jap cars are neglected. I have said on here plenty of times - mine was a fully documented service history 24.5km, nearly 5 yr old car. Got all four keys too.

Have also come across plenty of other ex Jap Beemers that have been well serviced cars. That said - there is plenty of crap that has come in too. It is a case of buyer beware.

Ex Sing E39's - not always good option. Some are not complete spec cars - no heating system for one.

Ex Sing E65's dont appear to suffer the same spec issues

Personally i have owned 17 BMW's now, Only one that ever shat on me big time was a Jap Import.

Lack of oil changes. ( They generally don't hoist the vehicle & remove oil through the dipstick....EWW)

Lack of heater is a very very rare thing, Only usually does a passenger service vehicle come like this in Singapore.

Also Singapore vehicles tend to have alot more option boxes ticked.Leather, NAV, Radio in NZ spec, better service history (usually with dealers even if it is outside warranty)

Just my 10c

[Jo Blogs 11]

Yea I did see that one on there, very nice!! what was your average consumption like in the 535?

Yea i'm always looking out for NZ New, but then the price is usually ridiculously higher then the others. First thing I usually look at when I check an import one is whats under the oil cap, usually tells you a bit about the service history, the main problem I rekon is people think every 10,000kms, when really the cars does about 60,000kms worth of idle in round town driving before it reaches the 10,000kms mark and by then the oil is rooted. I tend look out for service records that are done every 6 months or 5,000k sort of thing. The 320 is a jap import, and I think might have suffered a bit of the "long service interval", but that being said it has been a brilliant almost hassle free 40,000kms travelled in it since ive had it.

Thanks, Was an awesome car. (But have a better one now )

On a trip i got a constant 9L/100KM & town was more like 13-15L/100KM.

Oil degrades and picks up water over time thus why it is important to change it more on time than KM.

V8's have cam chain guide issues when they lack servicing & the correct oil.

[rusteee 52]

Yeah I thought the consumption would be pretty dam good on highway, the 320 is worse then that hahaha. And yea too right about the oil ay, the old torana I have regardless of how many km's it always gets the oi ldone every 6 months, lucky to have done 1000kms in 6 months in it

It's going to be hard to choose now between the 8 and the 6, I spose whatever I can find thats nice, with a good service history and checks out ok. If I do go with a 6 I think it'd have to be the 530I for sure. Might just go list my one on trademe, wouldn't have a clue what its worth.

[Jo Blogs 11]

Yeah I thought the consumption would be pretty dam good on highway, the 320 is worse then that hahaha. And yea too right about the oil ay, the old torana I have regardless of how many km's it always gets the oi ldone every 6 months, lucky to have done 1000kms in 6 months in it

It's going to be hard to choose now between the 8 and the 6, I spose whatever I can find thats nice, with a good service history and checks out ok. If I do go with a 6 I think it'd have to be the 530I for sure. Might just go list my one on trademe, wouldn't have a clue what its worth.

'

If you don't mind saying...How much would you like to spend? PM me if you want.

[hybrid 1039]

Swapped from a rather modified e46 330i to a NZ 540i Motorsport (01 e39 540iA SE). Car came fully spec'd had the usual issue with it but nothing thats hard to fix. (water pump, thrush arms, usual oil leaks) but you get that at 128ks on these cars.

One thing I dont miss from the jap spec cars is the IR remote key. Radio everytime for me from now on.

NZ cars have fold down rear seats, jap and singapore dont. erm, mine being an NZ motorsport came with all the m5 body work including folding egg shaped mirrors.

Not to sure on some of these 'jap' car claims .. you get what you pay for really. Pretty easy to see how a car has been treated if you know what your looking for.

The only thing is look for serivce history on any e39. That is service history from competent shops suchs as dealers and good indy shops like BM workshop etc.

If you get one thats been in NZ for a bit with proper service history .. I think youll be alright. and you should always go get a pre-purchase inspection done.

not much else to say accpet get the most spec'd up one you can afford and the 6 vs v8 thing isnt really an arguement as some might want you to believe, at the end of the day it comes down to fuel economy. Yes the v8 is mildy heavier but seriously pisses on anything around. the m62TU motor really makes a difference over the non TU.

[rusteee 52]

If it came down to fuel economy we would all be driving diesel manuals, that may suit some people teh comemnts made remain valid:

If you want an engaging drivers car - Buy a manual with rack & pinion

If you want to drag people off at the lights and slush around in traffic - buy a V8 auto.

If you want a decent reliable car check its history, check it out and service it.

No car is imune to neglect and NZ'ers are rapidly catching up to the slovenly ego driven and wallet constrained servicing habits of the americans and asisans.

I would much prefer a manual, but the main problem with that is actually finding one lol, I havn't come across any manual E39's in my search over the last year, all been auto, tip tronic. I'm going to go have a look at that 530I today

[kiwi535 538]

Get a V8 & Motorsport. UK, NZ NEW or Singapore are the best. (Jappas DO NOT look after there cars)

Even the 3.5L goes bloddy well.

Only issue i had with mine was front tires, Just use a tire with a good solid edge on it or you will find it will chew out very fast.

Falcons.....avoid like the plauge!!!!!

Best record so far.....7,000km and Farked!!!!!!!!!

you mean Falkens?....they were fine on my e34!.However i ran the same size front and rear and soon after the fronts start to show edge wear i swap to the back,and the new ones(the rears are ussually worn out by now),go on the front.Do not swap side to side AND front to back as the keeps wearing the same edge.

[kiwi535 538]

If it came down to fuel economy we would all be driving diesel manuals, that may suit some people teh comemnts made remain valid:

If you want an engaging drivers car - Buy a manual with rack & pinion

If you want to drag people off at the lights and slush around in traffic - buy a V8 auto.

If you want a decent reliable car check its history, check it out and service it.

No car is imune to neglect and NZ'ers are rapidly catching up to the slovenly ego driven and wallet constrained servicing habits of the americans and asisans.

nothing wrong with a manual deisel complete with rack and pinion ...

The rack and pinion thing is relative.The OP needs to drive a 530 and 540 and see,personally i did not think my E34 535 had "sloppy" steering i was always aware of the road surface,the straight ahead sometimes a little vauge....AFAIK the steering was recirc ball.The e87 however is razor sharp but that is also an effect of lighter shorter car.

[rusteee 52]

Tried out a 2001 530I, 525I, 540I and 2003 325I for the hell of it. Wouldnt even consider getting a 325 or another 3 series after driving the E39's. Was extremely impressed with the 530I, fantastic response, handling superb and overall was a damn nice car. The 525 was pretty nice aswell but lacked a little power when it came to taking off up hill and from stand still. 540I was a bit much for what I want but none the less very nice!

Car yard salesman reallllllly push to sell you the car then and there but I will try out a few more before deciding but im sold on a 530I. They offered me a trade in of 2000-2500 for my one, i just laughed, its a pretty tidy car and sure it would fetch a lot more then that looking at the market.