Michael. 2313 Report post Posted September 24, 2011 (edited) Yeah I'll stick up some pictures of those soon. Yeah ended up doing a customized rear sump, the pan needs to sit pretty far back, all stock sumps are a no go. Just running the automatic, I wanted to run manual originally, but then I decided I to run the automatic as its cheaper and well I don't have anything against automatics. At least with this one Ive fitted a modified valve body and installed an M3 SMG tiptronic shifter which at a later date I will wire up to this trans ecu I bought so I will have full electronic control over the gearbox, which means fast and snappy changes. Although for now I'm just wiring the stock ECU to control the auto for now, one step at a time! Yeah just running the stock 188mm rear mid case diff, fitted a stock E36 LSD to get the power down. Using the factory radiator with a couple of fans, will see how it performs, but I will probably need to look at some upgrades. Unfortunately I've been busy the past month as I've started a new job so it's put this car on the back burner for a while, athough today I sorted out some electric issues, now its running nicely. Tomorrow I look to taking it for its first gentle spin around the block... Should be interesting.. Edited September 24, 2011 by E36V8 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slowe30 0 Report post Posted September 24, 2011 im thinking a video may be in order no thrashing, just a nice little cruze video like no one else does would be nice Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted September 25, 2011 (edited) So I managed to take it down my road and back. ^ Unfortunately I didn't manage to get a clip, too fiddly with the rain and noise Didn't go too far, probably 500m Seemed to pull well, even with a bit of throttle, didn't notice any issues, although its too loud to hear if anything is wrong, since the exhaust is running off the headers - I'd imagine that would have pissed the neighborhood off. (oops) Quite pleased to see there were no fluid leaks too Ill be taking it to the exhaust shop later this week (probably Saturday morning) and once its quiet I'll be able to take a video of how it goes, a drive by/interior shot perhaps... I'll upload a few pictures later this week showing how I've done some of it. Now that it is actually running I get the sense all my work and the money invested is paying off. The costs over the last 12 months since buying the engine have just kept building, one thing after another! To put it in perspective the entire project has cost in excess of an E39 540i Motorsport or an E36 M3 EVO, so it has not been a cheap exercise! Be warned when taking on these sorts of things. (I haven't cheapened on parts either, everything I've put into this is American, European or Japanese.) If I were to do it again it would be cheaper, but I expected to have to cater for additional costs to cover mistakes and what not being this was the first attempt. In saying that I wouldn't want to take a project on like this for at least a year or two. Edited September 25, 2011 by E36V8 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted September 25, 2011 well done , look forward to the final results . yes these projects can be expensive. so many guys dont finish them or just do a butch job then try to sell it off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted September 25, 2011 so many guys dont finish them or just do a butch job then try to sell it off. Yeah, Trade Me classics those ones! "just needs some wiring done and a cert" YEAH RIGHT..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted September 29, 2011 So after sorting out a few minor issues I took the car for a good drive tonight. Runs superbly, totally effortlessly and surprisingly smooth. The 328i stock exhaust is probably too quiet, so I will probably change the rear muffler to my Remus rear box that I previously ran. Automatic gearbox is silky like most Lexus gearboxes are... a bit too smooth so at some stage I will upgrade the valve body inside and wire up my stand alone transmission controller to program the way the gearbox responds, allow for torque converter control and manual push button shifts. Further more as I anticipated the gearing is too long... so I will need to change the final drive pinion and gear, 4.1 will probably be the way to go. Couldn't be happier though. Will post some videos/pictures this weekend! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted September 29, 2011 Sweet, look forward to lots of pics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 121 Report post Posted September 29, 2011 And videos. Got any more info on the automatic controller Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted September 29, 2011 Yep I'll get em pictures up. And videos. Got any more info on the automatic controller It is a TCM-2000 made by Powertrain Control Solutions. Can also control other stuff like relays too, very expandable and has a good reputation from those that have installed them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 A few quick pictures I took today while testing some changes. Off to the paint shop next week Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slowe30 0 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 very nice, very jelous. could only be better if it was in an E30 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unstable 0 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 get rid of those cats man! gain some kw's! looks good! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 looks great and a bit better than the customer that came to my place today for some bits (rear wheel bearings , diff etc) then tells me his e36 325i coupe has a lexus v8 in it. (i wondered why it had a strange looking gear knob and different angle on the gear lever). nice work , keep it up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 very nice install got to love that sound Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 Cheers guys. It goes pretty well at the moment. The trouble I anticipated is the A431E gearbox I used (just to save some costs) has much too tall gearing, coupled with my final drive of 3.71... so it dampens acceleration a bit. So at this stage I will look at changing the final drive ratio to 3.91 or 4.10. My intention is to install an A650E I am rebuilding with a different valved body, upgraded clutch packs and a stronger torque converter. Might also have to replace the commonly failing solenoids too, I will then run it through a TCM-2000 controller, so I can use it to its best potential (torque converter lock up etc..) I suppose I could go to a manual, but I feel I prefer the automatics at this stage and the A650E has really great ratios (No one wants them so the market is swamped with cheap gearboxes) With a 3.91 diff it would run to a max speed in each gear of: 1st - 56 km/h 2nd - 85 km/h 3rd - 132 km/h 4th - 186 km/h 5th - 250 km/h The 3UZFE headers I used were a temporary fix, I mean they are loosing me a good 15-20hp, but at least they are something I can upgrade next year once I find the right person to build me some. The rest of the exhaust is from a 328i so 1.8-2" tube is less than ideal. The intention is to run proper headers, 2.5" tube, high flow cats, twins small resonators out to the back with a pair of Audi RS4 mufflers (means deleting the tyre well) - but that alone is 2k at a minimum. At present it's pulling 0-62mph in just over 6 seconds flat, so not too shabby for a stock 1uz with a stock auto, it would only be putting out 250hp at best. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kerry 10 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 well done. i want a v8 now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 The mounts I did mimicked the vorshlag LS1 ones. Sooo I went on my CAD program and designed some. Had to draw an entire 1UZFE millimeter to millimeter! (Header idea) Heat tape and alloy heat shield over top of urethane mount. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sp8s 1 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 So now you have designed and made the engine mounts you going to make a few spares to sell???????? This is looking so good i started checking out lexus motors on trademe haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 121 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 Love it. Must get better with CAD software. Would be so helpful for header designing. Do you have any photos of how close it is on the steering side? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 2, 2011 (edited) Theres about 5mm of clearance from the steering arm to exhaust, its pretty tight, I even had to use a vorshlag steering arm, stock wouldn't work. Under the car I've used one of the stock engine braces as a mount fail safe so If a mount gives it will stop it resting on the steering arm. The header set I will have made up will allow for more clearance, its just these stock 3uzfe manifolds stick out more than they need to. So now you have designed and made the engine mounts you going to make a few spares to sell???????? This is looking so good i started checking out lexus motors on trademe haha That did cross my mind. We shall see Edited October 2, 2011 by E36V8 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 7, 2011 This is the temporary exhaust I'm running, what was on the car before. Twin 1.8-2.0" 328i twin system, Cats, x pipe, resonators and a Remus dual in dual out muffler. Later next year I'll be upgrading the headers, running 2.5", high flow cats, twin non balanced resonators, swap-able with a twin H pipe resonator section out to twin Audi RS4 mufflers (requires custom removal of the tire well cavity) Sporty... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 8, 2011 Just ticked over 500kms with the v8 engine. All going well aside from just a few small things I had to correct. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 (edited) So after some testing I have come to find the acceleration is satisfactory although could be MUCH better. It's pulling 100kph in around 6.5-7.0 seconds which is not too bad for it's current setup. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlbzTsosN44 You have to remember I am using a bog standard engine (240-250hp) and ultra lazy 4 speed gearbox with lonnnngg gearing. The gearbox was a compromise - I knew using it would make it a bit soft and it does, but I didn't have 4k for a manual setup at the time... Since then I have decided to run a newer automatic gearbox. An A650E 5 speed - yes it's not a manual but it will bolt straight in and require no more custom parts. I've got one which I am having rebuilt to run: - A high stall torque converter - Modified high pressure valve body (More crisp faster shifts/less slip) I will set it up to run a: - Custom computer control with a TCM-2000 (full reprogram of the shift modes, allowing for full control of changes and even the torque converter! - not to be underestimated) It will be quite a gearbox (on paper anyway). The ratios are bang on, giving good top out speeds in each gear with the 4.27 LSD I am refitting. 1st - 3.36 - 50kph 2nd - 2.18 - 78kph 3rd - 1.42 - 117kph 4th - 1.00 - 166kph 5th - 0.75 - 230kph I'm also under way with sorting out a pair of high flow headers as the stock ones I used (heh) are loosing me a good 20hp so they need to go asap. Running well otherwise... Edited October 21, 2011 by E36V8 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrphTa 5 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 Congrats Mike, Would love to do something like this myself but dont think I would ever have the time and patience. Must be good to finally drive it after the hard work Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 Thanks Ethan Yeah, even though it took the best part of 12 months to sort it all out..... I feel it has been worth it, huge difference to the M50B25... did take a lot of effort and pissed the folks off many times! Only issue is essentially I am back to square one now with a V8 E36 than needs upgrades! Time to dump a second lot of cash into it! (Oh well) A good starting point never the less! All in all I'm very happy as it is right now, it runs so smooth and effortlessly. Fixed a few issues - but all is well now. I've just got to focus on sorting out the small things (RPM tach signal for example) After doing the bulk of a project like this main tips I can suggest are: - Plan what you are doing, and know what the goal is, don't just rush into it. I used a CAD program for all the designed parts, that meant accurately drawing out an entire 1UZFE block and E36 sub frame. It proved to be very precise (fortunately!) - Know good sources of parts (ebay was a godsend!) - Have the time to do the job on the side, this means cutting out a lot of social fee time to work nights and weekends on the car - Have decent work site to work on the car, preferably a concrete floor workshop - Use a half cut shell for the custom design work - much better than practicing things on your own car! - Make sure you have a full set of tools, fortunately I only needed a couple of extra (expensive) things - Only use quality parts - Measure twice, cut once - Don't take short cuts because its easier... - If it's worth doing, its with doing right! - Get accurate workshop manuals for torque settings / electrical diagrams. - Know a good reliable welder! - Have a spare car to run around in - utes are perfect in these situations - Be prepared to spend in excess of your budget. - Best of all, don't give up! Heres a quick little break down of the main costs for this project so far... Originally I budgeted about 10k + 5k for the car so around $15,000 (the price of an M3 E36 ) > E36 Car $5000 > 1UZFE + Auto $3000 > Drive shaft $650 > Custom engine/trans mounts $800 > Steering arm $400 > Sump $500 > Exhaust setup + Headers $850 > Remus rear box $650 > Electrical expenditures $150 > M3 Bumper (still to be painted...) $400 > 4.27 LSD $750 (to be fitted) > Oil filter relocation kit $200 > Power steering lines $200 > Fuel lines and connections $150 > Engine overhaul (Leads, Coil packs, spark plugs, rotors, distributors, water pump, cambelt, belts bearings etc) $1500 > Oils and fluids $300 > Certification ~$750 (in the process of sorting that now, all looks good so far) > Miscellaneous parts (Rags, hoses, clamps, cleaners, bolts, other odds and ends etc) $1000 Works out to be about $12,500 + 5k for the car. Keep in mind I did EVERYTHING bar the welding work so you could add something like $10k in labour if you had someone do it! I should mention I've other upgrades to the car such as fix the interior, which adds another $1000 ( Leather seats, new roof lining) amongst other minor things. Id say it will owe me about 25k all up once I've finished the next line of upgrades (Full exhaust, A650E gearbox install, paint shop repairs, Link G4 ECU, M3 wheels etc) Yeahhh...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
