Greg111 13 Report post Posted December 17, 2011 I had a quick scan through some threads in the I.C.E section, seems there are a few in the know so.......i currently have this install: Shitty phone pics. And it's no way near as good as my old basic setup: I always thought forward facing subs had more base due to pointing to the cabin, the current install is pointing away and has no way near as much base as my old install. I ported it and that improved but still not satisfied. I'm thinking of removing this setup and making another but with the sub pointing forward, am i wasting my time? if yes i may as well go back to my basic setup. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted December 17, 2011 havent got time to do full reply, but in 9 cases out of ten, forward or rear facing is pretty much the same, and a lot better than side to side. the case that arent are your 750iL's that have square boots and also tourings/wagons/hatches Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neal 544 Report post Posted December 18, 2011 (edited) Have measured a 3 db difference higher in my old e36 with sub box running in back corner of the boot compared to middle boot up against back seat. Suspect it coupled with the car better in that position. However I prefer the quality of the bass more in the middle, timing seems to be better. Having said that try running your sub 180 degrees out of phase to see if it sounds any different. You maybe getting phase cancellation in your midbass from your fronts depending on your subs HPF and your midbass LPF points and the roll off rate your crossover is running . (e.g. bass between the sub and fronts partly getting cancelled out between 70 - 90 hertz making it sound like less Bass) Edited December 18, 2011 by Neal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted December 18, 2011 The box is custom made for E36 coupes so can't be moved around, i might try pointing it the other way in a mock up box to see if that changes anything, the settings all stayed the same in the transfer from the old to new. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bimmer boy 21 Report post Posted December 18, 2011 *Bass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted December 19, 2011 I think everyone got the general idea Ryan. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted December 19, 2011 Is that Enclosure suitable for that sub? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted December 19, 2011 Yeah it's about the same size as the previous, maybe slightly bigger. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rogan 7 Report post Posted December 19, 2011 What are those 2 holes in the 1st pic? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted December 20, 2011 I ported it to get better bass, worked but still not happy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kerry 10 Report post Posted December 20, 2011 I ported it to get better bass, worked but still not happy.i rear faced my sub and it worked great mind you its reversed and free to air. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1043 Report post Posted December 20, 2011 What are you after. quality of sound or as much bass as possible ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 42 Report post Posted December 20, 2011 is that a new sub? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted December 20, 2011 i rear faced my sub and it worked great mind you its reversed and free to air.Yeah bit different setup.What are you after. quality of sound or as much bass as possible ?The system including all eight speakers is the best quality i have heard in a vehicle, 600watt amp powering the cerwin vega components and a 800w amp powering the 800w sub, just after a bit more bass to complement the speakers. As i mentioned the old basic setup was great but not really wanting to go back to that.is that a new sub?No been well run in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 42 Report post Posted December 20, 2011 phase change? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1043 Report post Posted December 20, 2011 As others have said check phasing. Sealed box to dimensions of the speaker and include cotton 'wool' in the box for nice tight bass in the car. It will shorten the length of the waveform instead of lengthen it which is what a ported box or a bandpass box will give. Ported box gives you more boom down the road. Face the speaker backwards and the back wall of the box forward if you want the maximum "everyone can hear me coming" effect. It will sound 'woofy' and droney compared to a sealed box. Just wondering if youve you got the power sorted ? eg correct gauge cables for the power your drawing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wom 0 Report post Posted December 21, 2011 are you using anything to stop boot rattle? curious as I'm sussing out ways to stop mine, by the time you can hear bass you can also hear a lot of boot rattle, it's really annoying Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted December 21, 2011 As others have said check phasing. Sealed box to dimensions of the speaker and include cotton 'wool' in the box for nice tight bass in the car. It will shorten the length of the waveform instead of lengthen it which is what a ported box or a bandpass box will give. Ported box gives you more boom down the road. Face the speaker backwards and the back wall of the box forward if you want the maximum "everyone can hear me coming" effect. It will sound 'woofy' and droney compared to a sealed box. Just wondering if youve you got the power sorted ? eg correct gauge cables for the power your drawing. I want to hear the bass, not everyone outside the car, i'm not that sort of person. The cable size is the same as the prevoius setup so nothing has changed power wise. are you using anything to stop boot rattle? curious as I'm sussing out ways to stop mine, by the time you can hear bass you can also hear a lot of boot rattle, it's really annoying My boot for whatever reason doesn't vibrate at all, you can have the music at what ever level. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neal 544 Report post Posted December 21, 2011 are you using anything to stop boot rattle? curious as I'm sussing out ways to stop mine, by the time you can hear bass you can also hear a lot of boot rattle, it's really annoying I had bad boot rattle when the rear spoiler bolts backcame slightly loose (try grabing spoiler to see if noise reduces) , Other areas for attention is rear number plate mounting (Put a clouple of strips of foam door surround sealer under it) and rear boot lock. Also make sure that boot rubbers are in good condition Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M5V8 337 Report post Posted December 21, 2011 (edited) I take it you have already tried playing with your x-over & gain controls on your amp? (sorry if im stating the obvious). Enclosure selection is as important as speaker selection with subs. There are programs available online that with your sub spec you can work out the perfect enclosure size as well as port size/length to maximum the sub performance. It could be that your old box was better suited to the sub than your new one. + those "ports" require some tubing to work properly. You can "tune" the sound through port size/length also. my 2c Edited December 21, 2011 by M5V8 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E36 M 9 Report post Posted December 21, 2011 By looking at the photos, your old sub had a much bigger box, compared to this slim one which doesnt move air as freely as it likes to. In my wagon, i have a box that almost takes up the whole boot, and the loudness/sound quality/bass that is hundred times better then having a standard 15 inch box in it. And facing my sub forwards, doesnt generate anywhere as near as what it does facing the back, as it is bouncing off the rear door and into my ears Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1043 Report post Posted December 21, 2011 can you maybe post some photos up of how you have it setup now ? maybe even your amp / cross-over settings? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
briancol 3 Report post Posted December 21, 2011 The system including all eight speakers is the best quality i have heard in a vehicle, 600watt amp powering the cerwin vega components and a 800w amp powering the 800w sub, just after a bit more bass to complement the speakers. As i mentioned the old basic setup was great but not really wanting to go back to that. The Cerwin Vega could be your problem. I ran a Cerwin Vega 12" sub for a while but became very disenchanted with it. I now have a 12" Soundstream and that kicks ass. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E36 M 9 Report post Posted December 22, 2011 +1 ^ had the Vega and upgraded to Soundstream, will never look back Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted December 22, 2011 I take it you have already tried playing with your x-over & gain controls on your amp? (sorry if im stating the obvious). Enclosure selection is as important as speaker selection with subs. There are programs available online that with your sub spec you can work out the perfect enclosure size as well as port size/length to maximum the sub performance. It could be that your old box was better suited to the sub than your new one. + those "ports" require some tubing to work properly. You can "tune" the sound through port size/length also. my 2c The sound settings on the amps haven't changed at all when swapping inclosures so no prob there. I just quickly put those ports in to see the difference, did change but not much.By looking at the photos, your old sub had a much bigger box, compared to this slim one which doesnt move air as freely as it likes to. In my wagon, i have a box that almost takes up the whole boot, and the loudness/sound quality/bass that is hundred times better then having a standard 15 inch box in it. And facing my sub forwards, doesnt generate anywhere as near as what it does facing the back, as it is bouncing off the rear door and into my earsWhen i have the rear seats down it sounds good as there is plenty of bass coming through the ports but i don't want to have to drive around with the seats down. As soon as i put them up the boot becomes a sound enclosure in itself and blocks all of it, the inclosure was custom made to the boot so sealed off the rear to the front, hence why i ported it.can you maybe post some photos up of how you have it setup now ? maybe even your amp / cross-over settings?How i did have it setup is the first couple of photos, i have since sold the inclosure, will make a new one shortly but don't know what position to mount the sub, forward, backward, sideways etc...i do however want one that also allows my rear strut brace to fit, i had to remove it for the new inclosure. The Cerwin Vega could be your problem. I ran a Cerwin Vega 12" sub for a while but became very disenchanted with it. I now have a 12" Soundstream and that kicks ass. The Cerwin Vega are split components which for 4.5" work extremely well, the sub is JVC which as explained worked VERY well in the last setup, the ONLY thing that i have changed was the inclosure, since then it didn't have as much grunt. The newer setup is now gone to someone else so i will start from scratch again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites