KwS 2377 Report post Posted March 12, 2012 (edited) Yup, quickly gave up on the honda i had, just wasnt really doing it for me... and now im back in a BMW. 2000 BMW 525i Motorsport Titanium Silver 2.5L M52B25TU Double Vanos engine Steptronic 5 speed Motorsport pack (wheels, suspension, interior, kit) Factory Xenon headlights Shadowline Auto dip mirror On-Board monitor Slotted/drilled rotors front and rear Simota panel filter Need to fix the OBM which is only displaying a white screen atm. Thinking i might upgrade to the widescreen model or a dynavin unit. Edited March 12, 2012 by KwS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted March 22, 2012 Found the list of my option codes the other day... Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S261A SIDE AIRBAG FOR REAR PASSENGERS Side airbags for rear passengers S320A MODEL DESIGNATION, DELETION Deleted, model lettering P337A M SPORTS PACKAGE M Sports package S339A SATIN CHROME Shadow-Line S354A GREEN STRIPE WINDSCREEN Green windscreen, green shade band S423A FLOOR MATS, VELOUR Floor mats, velours S428A WARNING TRIANGLE Warning triangle and first aid kit S431A INTERIOR RR VW MIRROR W AUT ANTI-D Interior mirror with automatic-dip S438A WOOD TRIM Fine wood trim S441A SMOKERS PACKAGE Smoker package S459A SEAT ADJUSTM., ELECTR. W. MEMORY Seat adjuster, electric, with memory S473A ARMREST, FRONT Armrest front S481A SPORT SEATS F DRIVER/FRONT PASSENGER Sports seat S522A XENON LIGHT Xenon Light S534A AUTOMATIC AIR CONDITIONING Automatic air conditioning Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S548A SPEEDOMETER WITH KILOMETER READING Kilometer-calibrated speedometer S602A ON-BOARD MONITOR WITH TV On-board monitor with TV S676A HIFI LOUDSPEAKER SYSTEM HiFi speaker system S694A PREPARATION FOR CD CHANGER Provisions for BMW 6 CD changer S705A M SPORT SUSPENSION II M sports suspension II S709A M LEATHER STEERING WHEEL M sports steering wheel leather S715A M AERODYNAMICS PACKAGE M Aerodynamics package S775A INDIVIDUAL ROOF-LINING ANTHRACITE Headlining anthracite S785A WHITE DIRECTION INDICATOR LIGHTS White direction indicator lights S788A M LT/ALY WHEELS BMW LA wheel, Individual L807A JAPAN VERSION NATIONAL VERSION JAPAN S818A MAIN BATTERY SWITCH Battery master switch S823A HOT CLIMATE VERSION Hot-climate version S845A ACOUSTIC BELT WARNING Acoustic belt warning S875A INFRARED REMOTE CONTROL Infrared remote control Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S925A SHIPPING PROTECTION PACKAGE Transport protection package Standard equipment Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S202A STEPTRONIC Steptronic S520A FOGLIGHTS Fog lights S853A LANGUAGE VERSION ENGLISH Language version English Information Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S555A ON-BOARD COMPUTER On-board computer V with remote control and today my replacement display arrived. Ripped into installing it as soon as i got home from work as the nonfunctional 4:3 display was starting to piss me off. Now im running the widescreen 16:9 display. Its still running the old aspect ratio, need to replace the video module, but ill sort that out later. Its also very awesome getting TV channels 1-5 in the car Old New (before i refitted the trims) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 8, 2012 Finally stopped procrastinating and replaced the Oil Filter Housing seal which since i got the car has been leaving an awful mess on my garage floor. 4 hours and many bashed knuckles later, not a job i want to do again in a hurry, but its done. Whilst i was there i also removed the trumpet on the airbox and reset the ECU, goes much better now and hopefully this will mean no more having to clean the garage floor. Next job is valve cover gasket, spark plug seals and vanos seals. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted April 8, 2012 Finally stopped procrastinating and replaced the Oil Filter Housing seal ..... *groan* I still have to do that... it's just a touch weepy - leaves a drop or two a week, but I want to do it soonish (next 6 months). At least I have the Vanos done already . Was it all pretty straight forward? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 8, 2012 (edited) Once i got the fan and shroud out (which turned out to be easier than i anticipated) its only a matter of unbolting the alternator and PS pump. Pretty easy really, just very time consuming. the seal i removed was hard as a rock and VERY flat. The block was covered in oil. One tip i found that seemed to be kinda important was to remove the oil filter housing cap so the oil drains down into the sump. My car had been off overnight but the canister still held heaps of oil until i removed the cap and let it drain. If i didnt drain it i imagine itll all come pouring out once you remove the housing from the block. Oh, and make sure you keep the OHF bolts in order as they are all different lengths. Edited April 8, 2012 by KwS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted April 8, 2012 Once i got the fan and shroud out (which turned out to be easier than i anticipated) its only a matter of unbolting the alternator and PS pump. Pretty easy really, just very time consuming. the seal i removed was hard as a rock and VERY flat. The block was covered in oil. One tip i found that seemed to be kinda important was to remove the oil filter housing cap so the oil drains down into the sump. My car had been off overnight but the canister still held heaps of oil until i removed the cap and let it drain. If i didnt drain it i imagine itll all come pouring out once you remove the housing from the block. Oh, and make sure you keep the OHF bolts in order as they are all different lengths. Cheers, nothing to dread then! I still have to fit a new drivers door lock mechanism - I'm dreading that! It looks to be a pain in the arse. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
liyi_92 37 Report post Posted May 3, 2012 hey mate, just saw this page! you were the one who sold me the white screen monitor through trademe? Part worked fine! Also nice car you have there!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garryg 5 Report post Posted May 3, 2012 Found the list of my option codes the other day... and today my replacement display arrived. Ripped into installing it as soon as i got home from work as the nonfunctional 4:3 display was starting to piss me off. Now im running the widescreen 16:9 display. Its still running the old aspect ratio, need to replace the video module, but ill sort that out later. Its also very awesome getting TV channels 1-5 in the car Old New (before i refitted the trims) What is the new unit you fitted? & how much? (feel free to Pm me). Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted May 6, 2012 Good to hear that my old display worked for you Its an OEM BMW 16:9 unit from either an E38 or E39, usually later model. I got mine through Ray at HellBM. Plug and play for the most part. Im still needing to fit a replacement video module to fix the 4:3 image on the wide display, but need to do my vanos seals first (which will be happening next weekend). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted May 12, 2012 So yeah, did the valve cover seals and rebuilt the double vanos unit today. Its as hard as i expected, but very time consuming. Wouldnt be too keen to do it again. The vanos failure mode on these is that the seals on the pistons stop sealing, and you end with with rough idle (mainly when cold), hesitation, loss of power. Mine was quite bad for the symptoms, and when i checked the clearance of the pistons in the bore they could freely move, in all directions. Guess thats what 250,000ks does. The vanos rebuild has had an immediate effect, with the idle being smooth and rock solid now. no more hesitation when cold and ive gained a bit of power up top but a huge whack of torque in the low to mid range. Ive only done around 60 ks so far, but apparently it gets progressively better until fully bedded in at 300ks. Seems economy it better too, the OBC is already reporting better milage, but ill give it a tank or two and average it. The valve covers on my car were basically solid plastic, barely sealed and leaked a fair bit of oil. Protip that really helped me, if you have stuck, plastic spark plug gaskets like i did, use a heatgun/hair dryer to heat them up. Makes them soft and you can pry/lever/pull them out easy (without heat they just chipped and cracked) Very impressed with the state of the engine too. At 250,000ks i kinda expected sludge and crap when i took the cover off. No such horror, just nice clean, golden, sludge free internals. I already knew it was really well serviced in the past, this just confirms it. One thing i regret is reusing the crush washers on the vanos pipe. i replaced both when i did the OHF gasket, and thought i could get away with reusing them again. Theyre now seeping oil >_< luckily easy to get at and cheap to replace. Just a couple of pics of the process. Sorry for the quality, used my iPod touch as i dont care much if i cover it in oil. Valve cover off Vanos unit off Vanos unit Back together Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 It's quite awesome the difference the Vanos seals makes. I did it with under half that milage, the they were absolutely poked. There was even side-to side movement of the piston in the bores! I just did the OFH gasket too - easier than the Vanos, although I didn't order new fan belts and iders etc - I should probably do them one day. Good work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 yeah, both my pistons has side to side movement, and quite a bit of it too. Did another hundred or so ks today, still getting better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 id like to know how much it roughly costed all up to do the vanos if you dont mind? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 The vanos kit is around $100 all up (including shipping) from Beisan Systems. I only needed the seal kit, not the rattle kit. I also did the valve cover gaskets, but im sorry i dont have the pricing for that on hand. Was pretty reasonable through the sponsor, EuroItalian. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
