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Dreamflyer

Jatco Tranny (maybe?)

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Hey everyone. Only new here, but ya all seem like a good bunch! Great reading on this forum!

I'v recently brought a '96 328i coupe (only new-ish to bmws and loving them so far). And having an issue with my box being very jerky from 1st to 2nd, but only really if changing below about 3k.

And to further my homework, I, trying to find out if it's a jatco box or not. Question is, how do you tell?

And is this problem common?

I'v heard of a number being jerky on downshifts and going into limp mode, but after that 1st change, it's sweeeeeet assssss.

Nick

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Hey I have a E39 1996 528i with the same problem.

When cold 1st to 2nd revs painfully high a a sharp jerk when switching. Usually after the first few gear changes it runs fine.

Your car is a jap import right?

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Hey I have a E39 1996 528i with the same problem.

When cold 1st to 2nd revs painfully high a a sharp jerk when switching. Usually after the first few gear changes it runs fine.

Your car is a jap import right?

Thats near on normal for a Jatco.

My first BMW (1996 BMW 320i M-SPORT) used to do the exact thing.

A neck breaking 1-2 change when cold then sweet one warm.

Was a jap import with a Jatco.

The vehicle had done 260,000 when i purchased it and nearly 300 when I sold it.

I bumped into the guy i sold it to some 6 years ago. Has cracked the 400k mark and its still the same.

Never failed.

I would not personally worry about it in a vehicle of that age......

There is a sticker on the side of the Box that will confirm the brand. (sometimes they are covered in gunk)

Hope this helps.

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Thats near on normal for a Jatco.

My first BMW (1996 BMW 320i M-SPORT) used to do the exact thing.

A neck breaking 1-2 change when cold then sweet one warm.

Was a jap import with a Jatco.

The vehicle had done 260,000 when i purchased it and nearly 300 when I sold it.

I bumped into the guy i sold it to some 6 years ago. Has cracked the 400k mark and its still the same.

Never failed.

I would not personally worry about it in a vehicle of that age......

There is a sticker on the side of the Box that will confirm the brand. (sometimes they are covered in gunk)

Hope this helps.

Mine is a German built import (according to the vin number and carjam)

Seems to still do it (although not always as neck breaking, just uncomfortable) when warm. Odd.

Thought I'd get some ideas on it, just don't want any shock loading damage or anything nasty like that later on down the track..

300k not bad!

Cheers for the input.

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Mine is a German built import (according to the vin number and carjam)

Seems to still do it (although not always as neck breaking, just uncomfortable) when warm. Odd.

Thought I'd get some ideas on it, just don't want any shock loading damage or anything nasty like that later on down the track..

300k not bad!

Cheers for the input.

The easiest way to find out if it's built for Japan is to look at the speedo - it has JPN in the centre. All Japanese E36s were built in Germany, but the ones for the Japanese market had some Japanese content - in this case the Jatco auto box.

I think the main difference is in the sump - the Jatco box has a pressed steel sump, painted black, the ZF is cast (I think)

my Jatco box failed at 175k. Made a sound like a raspy exhaust (torque converter?) and eventually blew the front seal. I'm now on a scrapper that had done 140k. Completely replaced the fluid with synthetic and it runs like a dream...so far....(25ks further on)

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The Jatco is supposedly physically bigger than the ZF.

ZF Must be so much better... Mine's on 250,000 and no jerking at all!

Edited by antil33t

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the jatco gearbox crossmember hangs down a lot lower below the floor level than the zf type.

also has the big solniod on the side of it.

seen at the back left side

in the picture below

Posted Image

post-279-1342595095.jpg

Edited by Brent HARTGE535i

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