M3 worklog

[central3 31]

After 3 months off the road the M3 is (almost) ready to go again. Work has included replacing the Champiro tyres with a second hand set of Michelin PS2’s (thanks Mark), fitment of a set of AC Bilstien PS9’s (thanks Tom), replacement of conrod bearings (plus ARP bolts), checking and crack testing of the Vanos oil pump drive tabs, checking of the camshaft bolts, valve clearance adjustment (4 of), oil change (including cooler flush and oil gallery purge), new plugs, new coolant, replacement of HP power steering hose (thanks Ray), gearbox oil change, fuel filter change, PS flush and fluid change, centre console replacement (with arm rest delete), OEM short shifter, new battery and wheel spacers (20mm front and 9mm rear).

All went well until the first start up attempt a few weeks ago. Not good, rough idle and way down on power (limp mode). Assumed I had stuffed up the cam timing when I pulled the Vanos off so I ordered a set of timing tools from the US (cam alignment toll and cam check tool). Reset the timing but the engine fault remained. Asked Tom (M3_Power) for help and with his very generous assistance found the Vanos solenoid pack had faulty connections on the printed circuit board (refer M3F post here). I managed to get the unit apart and resoldered the joints. Cleared the fault codes and restarted. Bingo – the car runs strongly and as an added bonus the surge/hesitation problem I have been putting up with for the past year or so has gone.

Now I need to get the suspension certified, get a wheel alignment and run in the bearings (TIS recommends 1,200 miles before reving over 5,000 rpm).

After my “cosmetic make over†late 2011 and this integrity/performance work I have got the car to where I want it. Bimmersport, M3F and forum members (Tom especially) have been a huge resource. Looking forward to some summertime km’s now.

I am having trouble uploading photos so please follow Photos

[M3_Power 636]

Glad to hear that you got it all sorted Paul The car is looking superb!!! (better than new I am sure!!)

One thing I noticed in the photos but can't be certain - did you use the washers I included for the rear shock? (if you didn't, best to use them instead of the ones you have on there) - how you liking the coilovers? And bloody hell they are CLEAN!!!

Here the photos:

Before soldering

After Soldering

Edited January 1, 2013 by M3_Power

[central3 31]

Glad to hear that you got it all sorted Paul The car is looking superb!!! (better than new I am sure!!)

One thing I noticed in the photos but can't be certain - did you use the washers I included for the rear shock? (if you didn't, best to use them instead of the ones you have on there) - how you liking the coilovers? And bloody hell they are CLEAN!!!

Here the photos:

Before soldering

After Soldering

Cheers Tom - I used the washers ex the OEM shocks but after your comment I can see your ones are a larger diameter, will change out soon. I have the shocks on the softest setting (9) for the meantime but even at this they feel taut, looking forward to experiementing once I get a few kilometers under the belt. Thanks again for all of your help

[Michael. 2312]

Ugh, stunning, it's one thing to have an immaculate upper body, but that under carriage is second to none. Marvelous work!

[Apex 693]

Very nice car. Good work.

[HELLBM 1531]

A car worthy of the time and effort you have put into it. Well done.

Will be in Taupo with `8M3` this coming weekend for Race Series maybe a chance to catch up and see in the flesh.

[central3 31]

Are you going to be there both days Ray - I would like to see the vert now it is running

A car worthy of the time and effort you have put into it. Well done.

Will be in Taupo with `8M3` this coming weekend for Race Series maybe a chance to catch up and see in the flesh.

[central3 31]

Not the best of days 1) I failed my certification due to my wheel bolts being too short 2) I couldn't get a wheel alignment because my Wanganui tyre experts (Tony's, Beaurepairs, Firestone) said the car was too low to get on their machines 3) tyres fouled the guards (rears mostly) up and down the Parapara's.

Problems 1 and 3 can be solved by re-working my spacers. I knew I was being a bit aggresive with the offsets I had choosen so will now back off to 15mm on the front and nothing on the rear (car's up on stilts tonight to remove).

Also I think my cert guy was off the mark as he said I needed 20mm's of thread engagment where the LVVA spec's indicate much less (i.e. one x bolt diameter or 6.5 turns - 12mm bolts x 1.5mm thread pitch)

Re the alignment I need some help - can anyone recomend someone that can handle a (slightly) low M3?

Edited January 11, 2013 by central3

[yng_750 247]

to be honest id try to find longer bolts

you have already spent shitloads so far would be a shame for the huge cornering forces of an m3 to break your bolts and mess the car up

[yng_750 247]

also take your christmas lights down already haha

[M3_Power 636]

Paul, the X5 (I can't recall whether it was the first generation or second generation X5s) have longer factory wheel bolts with the correct pitch and head angle. I used those when I certed my car and they had the requisite 6.5 turns to full torque.

Run more rear camber and it should clear the guards - I didn't have any issue with clearance when I had the coilovers in there - but again with 15mm spacers, might be a whole lot different.

And Welcome to the world of lowered cars haha !!! I could never find a place to wheel align my car because it was too low - the ones with the laser beams that align wheel to wheel are the worst as the laser beam could never reach the other wheel. The official BMW machines are okay as they work off the mirrors and the beams are on the main rig. Getting up the hoist is a whole different story however haha!! You can place shipping blocks in between the springs first and then take them off once the car is up on the hoist ... or find a low loading wheel alignment machine (quite a few up in Auckland).

Edited January 12, 2013 by M3_Power

[central3 31]

Paul, the X5 (I can't recall whether it was the first generation or second generation X5s) have longer factory wheel bolts with the correct pitch and head angle. I used those when I certed my car and they had the requisite 6.5 turns to full torque.

Run more rear camber and it should clear the guards - I didn't have any issue with clearance when I had the coilovers in there - but again with 15mm spacers, might be a whole lot different.

And Welcome to the world of lowered cars haha !!! I could never find a place to wheel align my car because it was too low - the ones with the laser beams that align wheel to wheel are the worst as the laser beam could never reach the other wheel. The official BMW machines are okay as they work off the mirrors and the beams are on the main rig. Getting up the hoist is a whole different story however haha!! You can place shipping blocks in between the springs first and then take them off once the car is up on the hoist ... or find a low loading wheel alignment machine (quite a few up in Auckland).

Cheers Tom - my bolts are actually ok (1 x bolt diameter engagement - 7 turns to full torque). I am going to have to sweet talk my certification guy as he reckons I need 20mm engagement. I like the idea of the shipping blocks but might take a run to Auckland and kill 2 birds with one stone (run in km's and wheel alignment).