Oil change and spark plugs!

[WarNox 1]

My car's due for both, an oil change and spark plugs!

Its an e36, m50 engine!

What sort of oil should i use and how much do i need?

what spark plugs do i need to get, i heard NGK's are pretty good but Bosch are bmw's proper ones, what do u guys recommend? I dont not want platnium ones!

any help apprechiated

thnx

[Carl 3]

Oil depends on milage, 10w40 is a safe bet and the brand is a personal preference, i'm just using magnatec. Use a fully synthetic oil if you want the best protection but be prepared to pay for it and make sure you use and engine flush.

Bosch or NGK plugs are cool.

Edit: Should point out though that if your oil and plugs are due for a change make sure you do all your filters, air, oil, and fuel - unless of course you've got a K&N air filter

Edited August 17, 2005 by ///Carl

[WarNox 1]

yeah i'll do the filters, well oil then the others a bit later!

any difference between ngk and bosch?

do u put the oil flush thing in just b4 you replace the oil and run it for a bit then all the 'gunk' comes out with the oil change?

[Carl 3]

any difference between ngk and bosch?

do u put the oil flush thing in just b4 you replace the oil and run it for a bit then all the 'gunk' comes out with the oil change?

A spark plug is a spark plug to me, I have never noticed a difference between brands.

Engine flush goes in after you drain the oil, only really need it if you're changing from mineral to synthetic but it's good to use each time if you're putting in expensive oil.

[Palazzo 477]

I think spark plugs become an issue on turbo cars. My Legacy runs properly on NGKs (factory originals), but misses when hot on Bosch plugs. Expensive lesson to learn, as they're platinum, anywhere from $23-35 per plug.

[bravo 35]

Haynes says to use Champion (maybe they were sponsored). mine are NGK. Check the gap before you put them in - should be 0.8mm. (use a feeler guage)

My car is missing a bit from idle at the mo, but not the plugs. Engine ran fine when they were new and pulled them out day before yesterday and were in good nick, so its something else - so go the NGK's.

[Guest Andrew]

I think spark plugs become an issue on turbo cars. My Legacy runs properly on NGKs (factory originals), but misses when hot on Bosch plugs. Expensive lesson to learn, as they're platinum, anywhere from $23-35 per plug.

thats because some plugs are hotter - i.e they heat up quicker and get so hot they just ignite the fuel before they even spark.

[WarNox 1]

Haynes says to use Champion (maybe they were sponsored). mine are NGK. Check the gap before you put them in - should be 0.8mm. (use a feeler guage)

My car is missing a bit from idle at the mo, but not the plugs. Engine ran fine when they were new and pulled them out day before yesterday and were in good nick, so its something else - so go the NGK's.

where do i get a feeler guage?

well originals are bosch, so unless they're that much more expensive i'll get them if not then NGK's as i've only heard good about them so far!

[bravo 35]

Feeler Guage? Where ever you get your other automotive tools from. They come in various sizes, either individually or more commonly as a set. make sure whatever you buy has a 0.8mm gauge. You slide the guage between the gap and it should just touch both terminals if not, use a tool to bend the arm up or down as appropriate.

There are notched tools for this purpose - often a glass cutter has an appropriate sized notch. on the handle.

[mops 4]

ok, since we have spark plugs covered, lets takl about oil.

castrol semi-synthetic 10w-40 you are saying.

What if I wanted to put full synthetic ?

would something like castrol formulaR 10w-60 siut my m20b25 ?

mind you my valvetrain is noisy as it is, and i'd like to put something thicker, which might possibly reduce valvetrain noise ???

or maby motul 15w-50 ? ( i think mobil 1 full syntch makes same grade oil)....

so generally, if I wanted to go synthetic, what grade should I use ? I dont drive my car often, but when I drive it, I drive it "with a spirit" if you know what I mean

[Palazzo 477]

We've just gone Mobil1 on the 325i and maybe it's my imagination, but it seems to turn over faster in the morning (first cold start) and fires up with a burst to higher revs than before. Could just be me dreaming, but I'm fairly sure.

[Gus 5]

im using pennzoil 5w-50 full synth. very happy with it. motul is good...full synth 15w-50 would be great. anywhere 5-15 should be fine. i havent noticed any problems swapping from synth-mineral and back again (was poor at the time)

[WarNox 1]

yeah i think mobil seem the favourite amongst bmw people, on other forums too!

im just lost about the engine flush thing, how exactly does it work, what do i have to do nd how much does it cost, some1 plz explain thnx

i take out old oil then what...

thnx

[Gus 5]

they're meaning buy very cheap oil, fill it with that, drive round for a bit and then drain it and replace with the good stuff. TBH its not necessary....does help keep your oil cleaner longer i spose

[Carl 3]

If you use the method that Gus just said then use a diesel oil as they have more detergent(s) in them and use that for a week?

Or you could just buy and engine flush and use that, STP have one in a blue can, not sure what the BMW centres use but they always charge you for one if you get a service.

[mops 4]

if you are considering a flush, the only wai to do it is with a cheap oil. If you use one of this STP engine flush things, be preparred to replace seals around the engine.

[bravo 35]

The only "proper" way to do a flush is with a machine that pumps a flush mixture through and collects the dirty crap and filters then recycles the fluid. It has a reservoir to replace lost fluid during the process and they run it until it flushes clear - same as a coolant flush machine. My guess is that is what BMW use - but obviously if you don't have one then you need to think of other options.

Personally I never flush, but I change oils as soon as it starts to go properly black which takes some time due to the fact that my car runs pretty clean and I change the oil so often.

My oil remains gold for several weeks after a change and then discolours slowly over then next couple of months till the next change (about six monthly).

[bravo 35]

Quote from a site selling a flush machine - so obviously my "system" won't dissolve varnish etc buil up, so maybe every so often I should take it in for a flush.

"From the first mile a vehicle is driven, heat within the engine begins breaking down the oil. The chemical reaction that occurs creates varnish, then varnish and other contaminants mix with condensation in the engine to form sludge. It's not long before the passages that carry the vital engine oil are restricted.

As varnish and sludge build up, friction increases. Timing is affected. Power is lost and fuel economy deteriorates. Even worse, the contamination begins to clog the oil pick-up screen - a major cause of engine failure.

The OSS process removes the varnish, carbon, and sludge deposits that regular oil changes can't touch. The unique OSS cleaner actually dissolves the molecular bond between contaminants and the internal engine parts.

Dynamic Process - OSS chemical is added with oil while the engine is running, so pressure forces the cleaner into every oil passage and return galley. The unit's positive suction action circulates the oil through the unit, removing loosened solids without clogging the screen or damaging seals.

Back Flushes - When the cycle is complete, the engine is turned off and the OSS unit reverses the flow to be sure no blockage occurs. The cleaning solution with suspended contamination is purged from the engine, making it simple to install a new filter and add fresh oil.

Fast - The process takes about half an hour and is self-contained. A powered discharge transfers waste oil to a storage container quickly and cleanly. Dispose of the waste following standard oil waste procedure"

[Gus 5]

haha makes it sound like if you dont use their particular machine the world will come to an end

fresh oil is good...cars can run for ages on the same oil......heaps of people do. its scum but just because its dirty doesnt mean it doesnt work (of course not as well but its better than nothing)

i dont really have a point

[Carl 3]

Going back to an earlier post, it was said to me that using diesel oil is a good way to clean out an engine, but how would you know if your pipes needed cleaning so to speak?

[aliluya 0]

CARL !!!!!! WTF IS UP WITH YOUR SIGNATURE !?!?!??!?!?!

MY EYES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Edited August 19, 2005 by aliluya

[Carl 3]

I pwn your eyes :mosh: :mosh: :mosh:

[Gus 5]

love the pic...but who the f**k is angus?

[Carl 3]

Angus is from AC/DC!!!!

[WarNox 1]

nice sig!

yeah thnx 4 tht every1, i've read about the whole replace seals if you use a flush thing as they start to leak, so i'll prob just replace my oil with 10W40 Mobil or something, but fully synthetic!

and get NGK spark plugs unless Bosch cost roughly the same!

one more thing, what does like '4+' mean in a spark plug?