hybrid 1043 Report post Posted January 7, 2014 On the track , oil temp got up to 135-140 but stayed and didn't move past which was better then last time That's getting up there ... After 150c high performance oils will start to turn into vapor and you will have windage issue and air bubbles mixing into the oil because its very thin at those temps. The vapor will creep up your breather hose and coat your intake inlets .. sometime cause blue smoke on start up ... this can also foul your o2 sensors over longer periods of time. Air bubbles from the widage in the oil line will cause lower pressure in the line however nothing to worry about in the dangerously low pressure department. Just annoying. After a couple of track days the oil will start to smell burnt or darken as carbon builds up. It is time to change the oil when it does this as it looses its lubricating properties at this point and will start to progressively break down faster than normal. I found the internal BMW oil thermostat (inside the filter housing) to be a weak point unfortunately. It is only designed for road oil coolers with minimal cooling volumes and will let up to 0-33% flow through and not the full 100%. I have a CnC machine block bypass however am installing an external thermostat as my car is still driven on the road. This setup allows up 0-100% cooling from the enlarged oil cooler and AN lines. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted January 8, 2014 (edited) That's getting up there ... After 150c high performance oils will start to turn into vapor and you will have windage issue and air bubbles mixing into the oil because its very thin at those temps. The vapor will creep up your breather hose and coat your intake inlets .. sometime cause blue smoke on start up ... this can also foul your o2 sensors over longer periods of time. Air bubbles from the widage in the oil line will cause lower pressure in the line however nothing to worry about in the dangerously low pressure department. Just annoying. After a couple of track days the oil will start to smell burnt or darken as carbon builds up. It is time to change the oil when it does this as it looses its lubricating properties at this point and will start to progressively break down faster than normal. I found the internal BMW oil thermostat (inside the filter housing) to be a weak point unfortunately. It is only designed for road oil coolers with minimal cooling volumes and will let up to 0-33% flow through and not the full 100%. I have a CnC machine block bypass however am installing an external thermostat as my car is still driven on the road. This setup allows up 0-100% cooling from the enlarged oil cooler and AN lines. Good info to know, thanks Was surprised how hot this car gets, normal operating temp of the car when I got it was 120 degrees with normal driving....once the new intercooler was installed 110 degrees, once the new oil cooler and thermostat was installed it sits between 105-110 degrees - normal highway / city driving I can see with me getting into tracking my car that i will be upgrading my oil cooler setup to the dual oil cooler setup (good thing is there is a upgrade kit from the sport to compeition) http://www.evolutionracewerks.com/node/133 I am changing my engine oil every 5000K due to the performance tune i am running and the track days in between When i had my lsd installed, Ross commented on how my so called "lifetime" differential oil looked, wasn't pretty at all. As i have broken in my LSD - getting the differential oil changed again this week I am getting my AT transmission "lifetime" oil change as well this week, will let you know how that looked.... Edited January 8, 2014 by mod335 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1043 Report post Posted January 8, 2014 Sweet ... good man ... yeah its pretty much number 1 priority when regularly tracking or driving you car hard. The cars components will last you a lot longer with that attitude Yeah, diff oils are a whole new topic. I'm looking to install a temp sensor in my diff housing and monitor that ... with slicks something tells me it wont be pretty either. Just an FYI .. normal operating temps of oil is 80c hot is 110-120. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted January 9, 2014 Sweet ... good man ... yeah its pretty much number 1 priority when regularly tracking or driving you car hard. The cars components will last you a lot longer with that attitude Yeah, diff oils are a whole new topic. I'm looking to install a temp sensor in my diff housing and monitor that ... with slicks something tells me it wont be pretty either. Just an FYI .. normal operating temps of oil is 80c hot is 110-120. Hmm, everywhere I look people are saying on the N54 engine that 110-120 is the normal operating temp - guess the car runs hot OEM oil is : 5w-30 High Performance Synthetic Engine Ya diff oil are another cattle of fish, was looking at this : http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac---finned-differential-cover-e82-e87-e90-e92-e93-p2493.aspx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted January 14, 2014 Quick update on things: I seem to be eating my engine oil , only had it changed about 5000k ago, it was due and the level was at minimum - oil got dumped and being sent to Castrol for analysis (Lifetime) Transmission Oil was changed as my car hit 50K ( put 13k already on it and its not even been a year ) - Oil seemed to look fine - Differential Oil was changed - nothing obvious so the wavetrack lsd seems to be bedded in fine FFTEC Inline Low Pressure fuel pump was installed and was able to run e85 without any blending (tho the 39L/100K consumption@ the track) Car's of to the Gloss Master next week for some paint correction and to be shown as part of the Gloss Master stand @ the 4&Rotary show 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) So done about 10,000K with my Oil Catch can installed - 2 engine oil changes Here's what my oil catch can had , if this wasn't installed, all this would be coating my intakes: Edited January 18, 2014 by mod335 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted January 18, 2014 Boost gauge installation Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted January 22, 2014 Got my ethanol test kit today - works like a treat! more info: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22709 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30-323ti 66 Report post Posted January 23, 2014 I am guessing the 335i doesn't have a flex fuel sensor and/or the ECU capability to use one, thus the content testing kit? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted January 23, 2014 There is a aftermarket flex fuel kit for the 335i that links in with the procede piggyback / stack combo (flash + piggyback) - bit pricey and due to a few concerns i have with this vendor , i don't want to be locked into their system http://www.procedetuning.com/BMW/n54/styled-21/styled-19/index.html With the new inline fuel pump i am able to run full e85 without blending on the stock turbo's , however when I upgrade the turbo's due to the fuelling issues on the 335i - i will only be able to do a e50 or e60 mix hope a new aftermarket HPFP will be released soon to fix this issue! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted January 25, 2014 2014 Mod List As i have been bitten with the track bug, will be focussing on that Upgrade brake pads from OEM SS brake lines to replace rubber OEM lines Surprised that i haven't warped or broken my stock brake setup, its held up well! Will see how that goes for a couple of track days and if needed will upgrade to AP Racing BBK if fading/heating/etc is an issue Apex EC-7 Wheels Semi Slick tyres M3 Suspension conversion kit Changing my tune from the Open Flash Tablet to running a stacked setup with the JB4 (backend flash + piggy) Replace spark plugs with NGK 5992 (.022 gap) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m325i 709 Report post Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) sweet, sounds mean. Aren't SS brake lines 'illegal'? Edit: nerds below know about SS brake line laws Edited March 6, 2014 by Nick G Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted January 27, 2014 sweet, sounds mean. Aren't SS brake lines 'illegal'? (can't WOF) From my understanding SS lines need a cert? I need to get one anyway for my coilovers so will get both cert at the same time 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted March 5, 2014 Quick Update: Ordered Apex EC-7 wheels from VAC Motorsports 18x9 (ET31) x4 Haven't decided which semi slick to run yet.....any suggestions welcome Ordered the following M3 parts: M3 Front Kit - (31102283575, 31102283576, 31102283577, 31102283578, 37142283867) M3 Rear Kit - (33322283547, 33322283548, 33322283545, 33322283546) ABS Sensor Brackets x2 - (34522283017) M3 Subframe Front Bushing Kit (2each) - (33312283382, 33312283383) M3 Front Sway Bar - (31352283965) Will be changing my OEM brake pads to Pagid RS29 (yellow) 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted March 6, 2014 ss hoses dont need a cert as long as they have the plastic collar each end to prevent cutting and an adr rating or similar. most have these even custom made ones do 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr2low 57 Report post Posted March 6, 2014 Stainless brake fittings and braided hoses dont require LVV certification; they fall outside the LVV threshold table. In terms of meeting WOF standards though the fittings would have to be made from a reputable automotive brand from Lvvta's website and for more info http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2007_Stainless_Steel_Braided_Brake_Hoses.pdf 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted March 7, 2014 cheers for clarifying the situation with the SS brake lines Anyone got a recommendation of which semi slick i should run for trackdays? - Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted March 15, 2014 Parts arriving for suspension change Megan Racing Toe Arms: M3 Front and Rear Arms + misc bits Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted March 15, 2014 New Shifter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) Think I need to upgrade my headlights Edited March 23, 2014 by mod335 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 (edited) Quick update: Last session @ hampton downs back in early april was a expensive day for me Looks like the glue on my front lip gave out and the screws I had installed didn't save it from the damage after 1 lap Pretty much one of the last sessions in the afternoon - I noticed from my rear view mirror that there was smoke coming out of my exhaust , quickly pulled off into the pit lane where once stopping the car, engine oil suddenly dumped all over my right hand front wheel - one of my oil cooler lines had "frayed" on the air con housing fan Installed the following bits on the car: M3 Front Upper Control Arms M3 Front Lower Control Arms M3 Rear Rod Guides M3 Rear Upper Link Arms M3 Front Sway Bar Megan Racing Toe Arms Only thing that didn't get installed was the M3 subframe bushing - as no one had the tool Definitely noticed the difference in handling Had the Apex EC-7 18's with Toyo R888 installed , unfortunately I had to raise the suspension level by 15mm to avoid issues with the front wheels Edited May 26, 2014 by mod335 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted May 27, 2014 Installed my Duke Dynamics CF Diffuser and new CF sideskirts , now on the hunt for a new lip Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted June 19, 2014 After the Taupo meet, on the way back to Auckland on Monday - noticed a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust Typical sign of a failed turbo seal on the N54 - confirmed at BMworkshop that it was the front turbo seal that had gone. I have a mechanical warranty with AA that is underwritten by Vero which is the Autosure crowd. Logged a claim and waited..... Guess what - they said they wouldn't cover me as i had modified the car etc. I informed them of the email that was sent to them back last year once all the mods had been installed. Claimed they never got it, but of course I provided them proof on the email and the reply back from one of their reps with the invoices they requested etc Finally they got back to me and said we shouldn't have covered the car with the degree of mods that I had done and that they don't cover you if the cats are removed and the factory CAI system is removed. They offered me a full refund on the policy that I had bought so I took that as I really couldn't be bothered going through the whole thing with them But typical insurance, you follow their terms and they try anything to get out of it. So I replaced both turbo's as they had done 65k on them. Was interesting to see how much shaft play was on the old turbo's!! Waiting on the test results from the after-market HPFP solution before I'll look at doing the upgraded turbo route Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve R 0 Report post Posted June 19, 2014 What sort of cost was the turbo replacement? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jake1829 119 Report post Posted June 19, 2014 (edited) What sort of cost was the turbo replacement? Around 4.2K Edited June 19, 2014 by mod335 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
