ccv valve help

[zero 1162]

So I have a 2004 E46 with the N46 motor.

Car has done 120 thousand kms aprox and has 240,200,200,200 compression on the cylinders.

I'm getting blue smoke if I idle for a while and then accelerate (like after waiting at the traffic lights) so I suspected the ccv valve was munted.

On the N46 and N42 you have to remove the inlet manifold to get to it which was a major mission but I did it over two evenings.

Sure enough it was pretty clogged full of crap and had never been replaced so hopefully that is the fault.

I think they are meant to be replaced every 80k or 100k or something?

Anyhoo, while I'm in there I figured I might as well ask if there is anything else I should check/clean/replace?

I managed to get all the plastic hoses off intact and they are in good condition except for having oily sludge in them.

Should I soak them in degreaser, or petrol, or something else to help clean them out?

The dipstick tube has sludge in it too so I removed that ready for soaking and cleaning too.

The inlet manifold gasket looks pretty good - can I reuse it?

There is oil around what I think is the oil pressure sensor(?). Does that mean that needs replacing too, or just a seal or o ring?

There is a very very small amount of oil around the cam sensors too - does that mean they need their o rings replaced also?

Sorry for so many questions.

[zero 1162]

Here is the link to my car on real oem.

http://realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin=PR00173

Its an automatic station wagon, and has had the oil cooler replaced about 10,000 kms ago.

[e30ftw 410]

Not much help, but holey doesn't look like that's ever had an oil change. Your whole engine will be like that.

[zero 1162]

Not much help, but holey doesn't look like that's ever had an oil change. Your whole engine will be like that.

Yea, the oil and filter were done about 10,000kms ago, and I will do another one when Ive got the new ccv valve etc in.

I will be using an engine flush too so as to get rid of as much gunk as possible.

[*Glenn* 854]

I would replace all the breather hoses associated with the CCV valve while it's all exposed- they crack. I would also replace the crankshaft position sensor (by the starter) while your in there- these also regularly fail. Use new manifold gaskets. The oil on the oil pressure switch is probably coming from a leak around the oil filter / cooler housing.

Camshaft sensors and vanos seals leak in the front of the motor. Rocker covers leak, brake vacuum pumps leak, sump gaskets leak, water pumps leak, power steering pumps leak, radiators, thermostats, expansion tanks, hoses...... you should all know the lists now, nothing changes.

N42 & N46 motors (and most of the valvetronic motors) also give issues with valve stem seals. The same result with idling and then accelerating, resulting in the smoke and excessively high oil consumption, made worse by the leaks on the drive and garage floor. These motors are one of the most problematic I have ever had the unfortunate opportunity to work on and empty wallets quicker than a pig at a trough.

[zero 1162]

I would replace all the breather hoses associated with the CCV valve while it's all exposed- they crack. I would also replace the crankshaft position sensor (by the starter) while your in there- these also regularly fail. Use new manifold gaskets. The oil on the oil pressure switch is probably coming from a leak around the oil filter / cooler housing.

Camshaft sensors and vanos seals leak in the front of the motor. Rocker covers leak, brake vacuum pumps leak, sump gaskets leak, water pumps leak, power steering pumps leak, radiators, thermostats, expansion tanks, hoses...... you should all know the lists now, nothing changes.

N42 & N46 motors (and most of the valvetronic motors) also give issues with valve stem seals. The same result with idling and then accelerating, resulting in the smoke and excessively high oil consumption, made worse by the leaks on the drive and garage floor. These motors are one of the most problematic I have ever had the unfortunate opportunity to work on and empty wallets quicker than a pig at a trough.

Thanks for your extensive knowledge and advice.

The top ccv breather hose had collapsed on itself so I replaced that a couple months back - it was nearly completely disintegrated.

I also fixed a leak in the rocker cover when I first got the car about 6 months ago.

I will replace the other hoses, and use a new manifold gasket.

I also noticed that a very short, thin hose had either previously broken, or I had broken it upon removing the airbox.

It goes from the bottom of the airbox to a tube that sits next to the dipstick - it looks like a vacuum line of some type.

It was completely deteriated too so I will replace that aswell, whatever it is.

Regarding valve stems - would they show up on a compression test?

[*Glenn* 854]

Regarding valve stems - would they show up on a compression test?

No and they are not DIY on a valvetronic engine

Edited March 18, 2014 by *Glenn*

[zero 1162]

No and they are not DIY on a valvetronic engine

Damnit.

If they are toast what is the aprox cost to get them done?

[zero 1162]

Well, ordered some parts today - new oil separator on its way.

I degreased and cleaned the whole engine.

Now if there are any future leaks they will be easy to spot.

The inlet manifold had some oil in it which I cleaned out, and I also cleaned out the sludgy dipstick tube.

I also cleaned the throttle bottle and the maf with carb cleaner.

I also had a look into the engine through the head inlet ports, and there wasnt any oil on top of the valves,

so hopefully that means the valve stem seals are ok?

What do you think?

[allan 295]

Hi

Are you having fun not I bet Glen has hit the nail with these engines a real pain in the rear. Would take a look at the vacuum pump on the rear of the motor as these fill with oil and it gets sucked through out the whole system and can course some real trouble.

[zero 1162]

Well, my parts have still not arrived after ordering them on Wednesday.

Normally I use Paul at Milland as he is excellent, but he was temporarily out of stock so I went with another bmw supplier.

I will not make that mistake again.

In the meantime I thought I'd do a few things while I wait for the oil seperator to arive;

I bought some Castrol 5w30 fully synthetic oil and a ryco filter in prep for the oil change I will do in a week or so. I bought a new gasket to do the oil filter / cooler housing at the same time.

Repco had a great special on this weekend - oil was $55 instead of $89, and there was 25% off the filter too.

I checked the vacuum pump as was recomended on here, and sure enough it was leaking.

I removed it and discovered the o ring was squashed flat;

I gave it a complete clean and will get new o rings tomorrow and refit. I used throttle body cleaner on the internals as I was scared degreaser would be too harsh on the aluminium;

I completely cleaned the engine. I also cleaned inside the head through the inlet holes by spraying in a large amount of throttle body cleaner, and then removing it by soaking it up with a rag poked in the holes.

I will look at the crankshaft position sensor next but I cant locate it. Is someone able to help here please?

[zero 1162]

Can anyone tell me where the vanos seals are?

Is it #5 on this image?

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EX52&mospid=47663&btnr=11_3296&hg=11&fg=15

[allan 295]

Hi Nathan,

Cam shaft sensors /pulse generator are No four and 5 is an "O" ring for it these are located in the front of the motor under each camshaft. Not sure where or if it has a crank sensor the N42 an n46 have a different system No1 and 9 valvtronic. With all that oil it might be an idea to check your brake booster to see if it has any in it

Edited March 23, 2014 by tim 325

[*Glenn* 854]

Can anyone tell me where the vanos seals are?

Is it #5 on this image?

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EX52&mospid=47663&btnr=11_3296&hg=11&fg=15

No 2 & 3 are the vanos seals. You will need 2 of each

No5 is the camshaft position sensor seal. You will need 2 of these

The crank sensor is down by the starter.. No3 here and you will need a new seal No4

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EX52&mospid=47663&btnr=11_3173&hg=11&fg=10

[zero 1162]

No 2 & 3 are the vanos seals. You will need 2 of each

No5 is the camshaft position sensor seal. You will need 2 of these

The crank sensor is down by the starter.. No3 here and you will need a new seal No4

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EX52&mospid=47663&btnr=11_3173&hg=11&fg=10

Thanks, I picked up the orings plus the orings for the vacuum pump and the dipstick today.

I bought the more expensive viton ones, as they are far superior to the standard bmw ones.

My oil seperator arrived today too.

[zero 1162]

Does anyone know the torque settings for the 5 torx screws that hold the vacuum pump together?

[allan 295]

If you don't mind me asking what did the oil separator cost you?.

[zero 1162]

Cost me $112, but you can get them from milland for $99.

[zero 1162]

I did the vacuum pump today with new viton seals, and for anyone that is interested the torque settings are;

12nm for the torx screws that hold the housing together.

10nm for the 3 bolts that mount the pump to the motor.

You will also need a new hose clamp as the old style can only be used once.

It was very tricky to get the pump in because of the limited space but I managed it.

I used a smaller 1/4 inch torque wrench as the space was so tight.

[zero 1162]

Hi Nathan,

Cam shaft sensors /pulse generator are No four and 5 is an "O" ring for it these are located in the front of the motor under each camshaft. Not sure where or if it has a crank sensor the N42 an n46 have a different system No1 and 9 valvtronic. With all that oil it might be an idea to check your brake booster to see if it has any in it

Thanks for the advice.

I checked the brake booster and there was no oil in it thank goodness.

The drive belt and radiator need replacing though

The previous owner(s) really didnt maintain this car.

I did all the seals on the vanos and cam sensors at the front of the motor, and the seal on the dipstick tube.

[zero 1162]

Time for an update.

All necesary oil seals and gaskets done except the sump gasket.

The sump gasket is leaking a tiny tiny amount but its a major job to do as you need to drop subframe, support engine, get new wheel alignment etc.

So I tightened the bolts at the leaking areas slightly above the torque specs.

Did an oil flush and changed for new castrol 5w30 synthetic, with new filter and new gasket for the oil filter housing.

Those that were behind me on the bimmersport day on Sunday would have seen I was still burning some oil.

Sorry about that lol.

That left valve seals (ouch) or something blocked somewhere I had missed.

So I replaced the ccv pipe with a longer one going into a coke bottle to make a home made oil catchment tank.

I then blocked the hole on the inlet manifold.

I went for a big drive today and still oil is being burnt out the exhaust, so that points to valve stem seals or the need for a valve grind, or both.

Then I ran a scan with the torque pro app, and it brought up this;

"TID:$01 CID:$15

Rich to lean sensor threshold voltage (constant)

Min: 4,096

Current: 737"

Maybe its a failed o2 sensor and my car is burning fuel, not oil?

I cant find any info on the net about this code except I think it is the sensor before the first cat.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

My rear cat has been removed, the internals removed, and then replaced, but this shouldnt throw a o2 sensor code right?

Any help appreciated.

Edited April 1, 2014 by zero

[zero 1162]

Anyone?

Should I take it into Glenn at Botany Motor Worx for a scan with his gear, and an emissions test?

[yng_750 247]

I would say put the ccv back on and get it properly diagnosed. Apps arent that great at this sort of thing. Have you changed out the plugs since the ccv valve change. possibly try nulon intake foaming cleaner. Sounds weird but it works watch some youtube vids to see how it works

Sent from my GT-I8160L using Tapatalk 2

[*Glenn* 854]

I would say put the ccv back on and get it properly diagnosed.

Go to the first post. The valve is f**ked. Do you realise that changing it requires the manifold to be removed ?. Have you worked on a N46 motor ??. If not , please refrain from offering misinformation or unqualified advise. The OP has probably introduced problems with his DIY repairs. I'm quite happy to look, scan and offer advice. O2 sensors don't tolerate oil burning ( high oil consumption for long)

[yng_750 247]

Go to the first post. The valve is f**ked. Do you realise that changing it requires the manifold to be removed ?. Have you worked on a N46 motor ??. If not , please refrain from offering misinformation or unqualified advise. The OP has probably introduced problems with his DIY repairs. I'm quite happy to look, scan and offer advice. O2 sensors don't tolerate oil burning ( high oil consumption for long)

i was more refering to the ccv pipe being removed and put into a coke bottle.

it wasnt throwing oil out so wont hurt to put it back on.

if it turned up to you with a coke bottle catch tank im guessing you would fix that first??? am i right

also if you refer to the first post the valve has been replaced and yes the manifold was removed. so im guessing the valve isnt f**ked as its brand new.

Edited April 4, 2014 by jason H